Carlperkins

grind rear rim and get tnn lgm pads or heatsink yellows, will give you much stronger hold. other than that i think your bikes pretty good, got any pics? you may benefit from some wider lighter bars too, the standard onzas and stumpy and heavy

yeah i think they're brilliant. apparently theres a rumor that they are brittle and brake if you drop them, but i have dropped mine about 20 times in the last week and nothing. they're all scuffed and scratched but still work 100% id say the only problem is the bleed procedure, the older hs33's.. you just put the syringe on and push, the new ones you have to undo the barb fitting till 3 threads are visible, turn the lever vertical, remove drill plug, bleed, then put it all back. takes about 10-15 minutes. it gets a bit annoying, but then again ive had to bleed mine a few times as i keep changing my setup and run it through the forks and obviously have to do the whole procedure everytime i wanna change either the forks, headset, or stem.

i have a HUGE dvd collection. about 250 dvd's. but my fav has to be.. The Hurricane. denzel washington, as rubin 'the hurricane' carter. all true story about a boxer jailed for life for a murder he didnt do. top class! agree'd! dont watch paranormal activity 1 or 2, waste of time they suck.

echo lite 2011. brand spankin'.. with echo urban forks, echo sl headset trialtech stem echo tr riser bars echo sl freewheel trialtech titanium bashring try all forged cranks echo BB onza shindig pedals (going to upgrade to echo's in a week or 2) trialtech grips 2011 maggy hs33's front and rear echo 4 bolt booster f+r (yeah thats right.. dual boosters lol) echo tr brake clamps f+r tnn lgm pads, front and rear maxxis holy rollers f+r (going to upgrade soon) onza zoot wheelset. both grinded. crap chain. - crap not brand.. just crap

avid sd7's with inspired pads, and avid lever. good setup.

nah i have a booster, but i dont touch my foot on the booster anyway, no need. i usually drag the side of my shoe on the side of the tyre, effective. not wearing my shoes out or the tyre at the moment, does mark my shoe though. and back to the original topic, i ground both rims, run tnn lgm's on the back and heatsink yellows up front. will soon be running tnn lgms on front and back, so ill have a set of pretty much new heatsinks for sale soon probably.

skullcandy in-ear headphones. you get great bass, and they wont fall out very easily. cost about £15-£20 them... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Skullcandy-Inkd-Ear-Earphones-Black-Red-2010-NEW-/370507141422?pt=UK_AudioVisualElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Headphones&hash=item5643f2512e loads of colours and designs too.

yeah id say go for the inspired above, no point getting a new one for nearly 1000. i had a zoot and it cracked at seat stay, and i dont think i was even riding it hard.

ok im definatley out, got no forks. sent away to get mounts straightened on warranty. ill be up for next sunday though for sure if anyone is riding then, if not ill prob just go up and do a loner ride lol.

i was just playing, practicing taps and my guy jumped forward and then just floated off into the sky as if he was in an invisible elevator. i actually laughed out load. haha. good fun game though

yar i hate it when it feels crap. thats what practice is for though.

i give him credit, but damn that is such a boring video.

hahaha, i am now gonna put stuff in my front wheel. im gonna go all out though, get my nan to crochet/weave a black and white spinning effect in my wheels, like the austin powers time machine. haha

from competitions. says name and routes etc.

nah both wheels on ground, then spin round 360 degrees whilst keeping rear on ground. not really a trials move, just for fun really

HAHA! its well fun, cant get taps for shit though... hard as anything. cant wait for full game man.

for the headset problem, undo the stem bolts (so the bars can twist without moving the wheel), then tighten down the topcap bolt, then re-tighten the stem bolts. if problem carries on, its your headset, that will mean removing bars and forks etc, make sure headset cups are in properly, if not.. bang them in properly - (technical term that..) if they are and your sure your headset is buggered, get a new one and fit properly. then re fit forks and bars. ......................................................................................................... for the rotor problem, make sure the rotor bolts are all tight (which youve already done i spose) make sure the actual caliper is tight on the frame, your pads shouldnt move an inch thats for sure. make sure your wheel is all tight in the frame. its probably just something loose, if not something is buggered. (its hard to know without looking at the bike really) ......................................................................................................... take your wheel out and remove the buggered spokes, if you dont know the spoke pattern like 3x 2x etc. take a picture or mark it so you know how the spoke goes back in. (i.e, which spokes it goes under and over.) then replace the spoke and the nipple, put a dab of grease on the thread of the new spoke, not that important if you dont have any grease. tighten it up nice. put your wheel back in the frame, hold the frame up so you can spin the wheel freely. use your brake pads as a guide, spin your wheel and youll see it move to one side say if the rim moves to the left then back, you need to tighten all the nipples that are between the points on the rim where it moved out, then in again. and only on the spokes leaning up to the right (so it pulls the rim back into the middle) keep on doing this process until straight. theres some good videos on you tube on how to lace a wheel and true it, its worth learning it, then if you do bugger it up, just take it to a bike shop.

dropped off a 4 foot wall and i think thats what did it, or a year of abuse. mine also had a few upgraded parts, had a disc on the front with avid bb5 brake, trialtech stem, had avid single digit 7 brake on rear with booster, new chain. id say the booster and the chain are the main bits, as pointed out above. the original chain is shit, and the brakes work good with booster.

yeah they are good, i had one. im a fast learner too, when i was getting good at trials, i swapped some parts and upgraded bits. then the frame snapped though so ended up building a whole new bike. i think they're abit over priced though when bought new. £540? nah.. if your gonna get one.. hang on for a second hand one, check ebay too.

this thread is well funny. basically, he bought a polished turd of a bike, took it to a bike shop who said it was shit and couldnt do anything about it, he took the bike back and is hopefully getting a refund, all the rest is just argumentative really. i suggest you get your £100 back for the bike, keep all the parts you've bought etc, or sell to fund a new bike. if you lose a bit of cash, who cares right? save up a little more and buy another trials bike, this time take a little ride on it when you pick it up, (pull and endo/skid) twist the bars and turn the pedals to see if theres any roughness, maybe take your very knowledgeable mate to check it out with you, forget about the first bike completely, if you lose a bit of cash.. who cares? moneys money right? you can live without an extra 20 in your pocket, remember the old saying.... you buy cheap, you buy twice. I'm not saying spend £800 on a new bike, but get a reasonable one, £200-£300. a decent t-pro for £100 seemed abit too good to be true. and things that seem too good to be true... usually are. btw.. nobody call me retarded or have a go for giving my opinion, please?

hahaha brilliant!

ill second a bb7, great brakes. plus you can always lengthen and change cables etc without all the mess of bleeding. im running maggy hs33's at the moment but if i had to change id go for bb7's

ahh, well id classify mine as a medium grind probably, its probably a light grind by now though. and i normally ride it around 10 hours a week. 3-4 months sounds ok, i couldnt be arsed grnding it every month or so.

heya, recently ground my rims and bought tnn lgm's for rear and heatsink yellows for front. i was just wondering really.. how long do grinds usually last? do you have to do it every day? month? 6 months? and how many grinds can a rim hold before its weakened? just for the record my rims are the standard ones that come on the 2010 onza zoot, but looking to upgrade soon to some echo urbans. any help much appreciated.

i am just full on both brakes, lean left and crouch down, then spring up and rotate right. no pedal kick or technique atall, just brute force haha. ill pump my tryes up and try to get further.