FamilyBiker

it adds elastic module and final tensile strenght,no? for me that means same ultimate strength as a thicker walled tube without treatment. correct me if i´m wrong,i´m more into other bike related stuff than austenite and martensite and such...

thats a good tip,thanks.only thing is it´ll make the pads too wide by a few 1/100th mm. have the next set in the oven right now,i´m unstoppable now!!! edit: baking the mould,baking the mould!!!!! (imagine judas priests "braking the law" to it right now!) and another edit: couldnt stand it and made a full set,just to check the results in size etc now if that doesnt look promising...

eh,you shoulve been telling him that you cant hit brakes that arent on your bike and be a beast though. thats what you do right?

woah,thats difficult,miter angles and stuff. get bikecad my friend,GET BIKE CAD! (pm me for that)

next update,i have 3 test compounds ready to go on the bike,they just need tempering for 4 hours now,so i wont be testing anything today. my kitchen lab: my mixtures so far are compounds of: -80a -83a -87a thats calculated from the values on the data sheet the resin guys sent me with it,and after tempering. tempering is 80°C,4 hours and gives + 2 in shore a hardness. the weird shape of the proto pads doesnt matter,they have to hold up 1 ride in dry and wet weather each,so i´m just saving material now little bit of input for those who fancy a try if i ever will be giving away some pads theyll be a tenner or so,its much more work to make pads than i thought lol except testing pads,some people will get free ones edit:compared mine to the pads ive ridden so far (and liked em)in consistency,my tendencies to go for 87a are growing....

maybe helicoils are good for static loads,where a bicycle mostly has to carry dynamic loads,and its threads too. a rigid thread insert should be better as a coil can be pushed away by a bolt thats being bent.

sorry, i have nothing helpful to add here,i just had to say i´m still giggling from that helicopter thing lol

even my actual deore brake held up better than the hope of a mate,and its still going strong (mates hope tech trial is f**ked).bought at the same time. so,if you dont wanna spend much money,get a deore 596 and replace it, if it breaks.lever costs 25€ here,thats a joke for that performance

nothing like a 4-piston IS xt caliper from 2002 with a recent lever like xt 4-finger trekking or bl-m 505. no joke

we use mostly würth stuff at work. 1.theyre from germany,how obvious 2.timeserts awesome,only way to fix a pedal eye forever

probably not edit:i know,now i´ve ruined it...

shimano brakes have all the same master piston size,so there will be no problem,only thing that could change the power is the mechanical leverage,and thats a bit better with shimano radial masters. should result in a win.

nah,pretty occupied with the pad thing,over an hour for making one set... but hey,if someone does some slaves i´m in!

they break apart,because the bond between the metals rough surface is stronger than the internal structure of the polyurethan. at least with the harder ones i made yesterday,too much filler and they get brittle. atm i´m trying to get the right mix,have made too brittle ones with bubbles and too soft ones now,the answer lies in between that. the other thing is how the curing affects the hardness in the long run,a soft pad today can be a hard pad in a week... edit:second try finished,compared to the echo refill the mould was built after:perfect copy,except the surface.but that will be sanded though,so what? i´m making the test ones with only 4-5mmof pad to save resin for the final ones i cut the other one in 2 pieces to check if theres air trapped inside,the bubbly stuff is now only on the surface,so win!

okay,so its not THAT easy: put them out of the mould a few mins ago,and over night they went shite(rhymes ahoy). seems like the release agent i used evaporated some of its aerosol through the pads,so theyre pretty much foam now. bubbles over bubbles.i´ll have to dry that stuff out better next time,seems like i was in a rush to try it out and didnt take everything into account. next set is in the oven as we speak,now with bee wax as a release agent,no aerosols involved... we´ll see

a guy on the magura forum(staff member obviously) said the financial effort to sort all the springs and seals for rate and friction wouldnt fit under the "low priced" tag magura stand for,it would alter the brakes price. as if they were cheap haha

yes,yes i did haha u-brakes with nokon(or alligator?) hoses... does it make them real brakes? just joking bud

before a frame cracks from corrosion its more likely to crack from the load intervals its going through... ...rust is ugly though better go over it with some chrome paint,then laquer.theres hardly any clear coat that doesnt get broken through by corrosion

woah,if thats half-assed mine will be right in between the two cheeks... was that a lawnmover(the move where you are one handed on that sloped thing)?

i would rely on what leeson,marino,jaf and so on have proven with their stuff. test frames,early products:mild steels,maybe crmo if youre confident with mitering and stuff and a miscut tube isnt an issue anymore(could happen,no?) production frames:4130 or 4140 crmo,with 4130 a bit lighter because of the higher tensile strength,where the 4140 is weldable with less "moving"in the material due to heat,and a bit cheaper. later on i´d make individual stuff,if anyone wants to break his neck using tange prestige tubing on a trials bike its customers choice(mean example lol) also if youre really serious with this youll recognize soon,theres a market for lighter stuff than 2500g for a frame,you should consider heat treating below frame weights of 2200g

well,i dont know either,will have to try different mixtures,write them down and keep doing what works best. first try was pretty freestyle,6ml of each resin component,a teaspoon of aluminium hydroxide and a drop of pigment fluid isnt really exact science haha edited:6ml,not 60,that would be huge pads haha

haha, if this works i´ll need a mould with like A4 format for say 10 pairs or so.then i could make loads in no time.only downside so far is that it has to settle for a few days up to a week before it can be used as a brake pad... 2 days with 80°C,but i wont run my oven for that time lol

woohoo! being the impatient guy i am,i had things going on in my kitchen lab 5 minutes ago! cool things! that means fresh pads will be finished this evening,how awesome is that?

for me they look pretty good to be honest

little update,stuff arrived. weather seems to be shite tomorrow and i´m off work for the afternoon,so expect some chemistry to happen then