FamilyBiker

i dont know why,but i cant get it dialled to gap to front with the bike being lower,so i end up gapping only a tad over a wheelbase everytime. is there a trick to gap more horizontally?

depends on if you use a bad foot/good foot runup or do a static pedal up from 2 wheels up to rear with just kicking good foot...

today i got something in the post,fitted a pad refill into it,fits perfectly,awesome!!!

dont know if its meant as a joke from rammstein or not, but their music is definitely silent hill for the ears,if not worse. lol

video still from saturday,in reality i took 3 steps to rear,then to front up on the higher place.

just wanted to say that if you were german you´d really really think about the song choice. rammstein is mostly very sick quotes from brecht,schopenhauer and so on. and i mean sick texts are about killing little children and such stuff

i´d check the post office or place you sent it from,a mate sent me a crankset a week ago,it didnt arrive first.he went there again and it was still there yesterday. today it arrived and i assume someone in the post office has got a pretty angry text from my mate

for me the used parts and weldings look very because-like,but i dont know it really

that: must watch for the interested trials biker,and a good laugh as well edit:hope you meant that one too lol

thats what i read. deleted my rest of the post,tired of explaining people technical things they dont want to hear

then it would be unevenly crossed and wobble up and down under load... and with a 32 thats how many holes? its an odd number,which doesnt work as it shifts the whole pattern

you can combinate every rim and hub with a hole number dividible (word existing ? ) by 6. so no,i´d say you´d need a 36 hole. thats always a tricky one,as the spoke lenghts arent the same as if all spokes were there,so its a lot of trying out until the spokes are the right length

i think being versatile brings a slow,but even progression,while specializing brings fast results. the question is,what are you having fun with? do that.

the moulds made by a mate of me. once polyurethan´s polymerisation is done,you cant melt it again,you have to use 2-component-resin. that thing is actually just bolted together,wich gives the shape of the pads. i took my measurements from echo cnc pad refills and designed the cad to it. afaik those are the ones which have the biggest recesses,so its basically aimed at having pads that can be cut to every other backing. the mould is only to be pre-heated to 80° C,the curing time of the PU is around an hour,and steel would hold most of the temperature for long enough to get a homogene cured pad. if not,i have an old microwave oven that i could use for post-curing. you didnt really read the whole topic did you?

i cant help myself,but this thing is...well... ...kinda awesome,no? :dance:

its one of its kind...

get that frame welded!didnt know youre riding that big.

and your question is?

breathtaking vid in my opinion,awesome riding and the filming setup,too

just a quick shit paint job,but something like this (all pics i found through google seem to be not aloowed on tf)

would be better to get some kind of gusset made,not just to overweld tha actual crack. a crack always has a reason like tension in the material etc,a gusset would spread future loads away from the crack it has now

if they entered the get comp we´d be all f**fed lol awesome watch,a bit weird,but way nicer than that previous one with the 3 eating . thanks for posting

pic of the crack?

if you want a 31.8mm clamp size most people would recommend you the trialtech highrise bars. i´m still running 25.4mm so i´d say ns district or blkmrkt badaboom. both have a very nice shape and are 76mm high and 711 wide

tell that to a bicycle technician. oh wait! edit:no,joking aside,again(hehe), normally an axle bolt or nut is tightened to 30Nm,40 would be more than 130% of that,which exeeds most bolt or nut manufacturers tolerances already.should be enough