FamilyBiker

hmmm,around 30 clips but nothing i would describe as overly creative.my spots here suck,and my riding is far away from being awesome,sooo....

do it with a newton wrench,40Nm should be good

seriously,a guy whose user title is "chiken" does this to me? my mould seems to be posted,and the resin seems to be, too, so things should come together soon,yay!

grammar fixed,for those who care... saw more awful grammar from uk guys here btw hahaha

wow,i am 18-24 again,regarding google

why?i find it pretty interesting. buying like buying complete pads or like topic related "to make pads" ?

dont know how thats the case,just what he measured out. could be that over a certain hardness it becomes slightly heat sensitive. thats why i´ll add harness by adding heat surpressing agent.

took me the first minute to realise youre brakeless,as i got it it got more and more interesting. really nice watch,thanks

update again,just for those who are curious about: someone i know has a shore testing device at work,so he put several pads into it,result Coust Tnn blue Tnn adm All around shore 85 A except cousts,a tad harder now if that isnt helpful...

haha 700 for a street frame! once i traced back a frame that we could order in as a repair frame(was just a brave machine frame btw),that costs 349.- € here in retail. i rang the wholeseller,ha gave me the number of the production facility in shenzhen,and i rang them then(chinese have a nasty english lol) this was the same place where ghost,canyon,cube,and even some scott frames are produced,and the guy told me that a frame costs the wholeseller 60€. you have to pay a certain amount for jig adjustment and stuff,then every frame 60€ max. so do you really think a frame made in taiwan is legit to have 700 as retail? i mean thats 500 euros out of memory! me not no offence taken,just a thought to spread

pure awesomenessnessness!

thats the mould i hopefully will get. its 2-piece,i just didnt put the bolting holes in the cad file. the 2 blocks bolted together give the shape of a big echo refill(can be cut to every other backing)after the curing process you´d just unbolt it and pop the pads out like icecubes.tadaaa! edit: for those who want the measurements

i mean for 40€ 500ml of resin mix plus additives and pigment isnt bad. i f am right i´ll get 50-60 pads out of it...

3.45 € haha make a fiver out of it,thats incredibly low on price... but first i´ll have to finish em,can take 1-2 weeks depending on when i have equipment ready

make you an offer:set of pads for the cost of postage,once theyre finished. until theyre figured out as awesome by everybody:then 20 a set hahahaha

sooo,big bump but i am joining in again on this here,think i got someone to make me a professional mould. how are everyones pads performing so far,didnt hear anything recently but those on the black because... ordered stuff here in germany now,so hopefully will arrive this time haha

i said"for example",but yeah,i like those frames. muahaha.no.

lhd?

but thats been held in place by friction in the thread btw what i first wanted to say is,on marino (for example)dropouts you can put a 4mm allen key screw with a nut put first on it in the thread to counter it,win.

actually you two helped me,too.thx!

that a cool edit,like it!

wtf? edit:if i got that right,being an unhumourous german,you guys should have a coffee or 2 before posting something. imagine yourselves a winking smilie behind that. haha

ah,marino dropouts(pic) you´d know if you tried that a chainwheel wears unevenly due to the fact youre pedal kicking only with one quarter of it,leading to loose and tight spots when the chain runs.the tensioner solution is to avoid that slack points,or at least you dont have to readjust tension every other ride.or youre just aiming for a certain chainstay length,your chain would be loose in most cases thats why i see bikes with snailcams always have a slack chain in "good foot forwards" position

without wanting to spam daves thread,i think its the perfect mix of good,precise locking brake pads,the right gear ratio and bars/stem setup.if that all comes together nicely you just have to get the "on/off" technique dialled.has a lot to do with how and when you release your rear brake imo bikes looking pretty well suited btw isitafox