stirlingpowers

We are middle aged, so nothing of significance is going down on the bikes. Just fiddling with parts in the shed.

They have single speed hubs: https://www.dtswiss.com/en/components/hubs-and-rws/hubs-mtb/240 There could well be way more hubs, but I can't be arsed to go through their maze of ill-fitting customer guidance.

Thank you. We'll try DT, they sell these separately, so we will try if we can get our hands on the 90 tooth model, or something from Aliexpress...

We found this video, it seems it's screwed in now: https://www.hopetech.com/news/the-all-new-pro-5-hub/. Now only to get this part separately...

Is the tooth ring in the Hope Pro 5 separate from the hub body? On videos, it looks like it's one with the hub body, and it isn't separate on the parts list either. But I find that strange, should be steel. Asking for a friend's pet hub project...

Try a new short wheelbase, flat stem & high BB bike at some comp. It's day and night for backwheel moves. The pogo stick meme is real. You will have to say goodbye to rolling bunnyhops though. For geo there's only the shop and frame brand websites. And these miss many important values. No effective stack or reach info, for example. Street seems to be 73 to 75 cm above bottom bracket. From experience, at 181-182 cm body height, 70 cm stack is way worse compared to 74 for bunnyhops. 70 or 71 degrees steering angle is hard for front wheel spins compared to the 73-74 degrees on street bikes.

If you are not humongous, I'd recommend a used Jitsie Varial 24.

So if it's not the environmentally degraded grease in the hubs, maybe you should skip leg day in the gym

In the last 20 years, I broke just one freehub on my city bike (bought in 2000, cracked in 2021). I weigh 70ish. There has to be some detail in your gap technique that kills them. Or do you have some special dust or sand that clogs the pawls where you live or something? Like that fine Oz outback sand that gets through seals like it's nothing, I mean.

I could build a rear Shigura with an MT5 saddle, would probably be the least work to get a running bike. Thanks!

Got to resurrect the thread: My XT rear caliper started leaking after half a year of light pensioner use and room temperature storage. Also has a really loud knock that never got better, so I want something else. Mr. Clarkson@Ali C recently said that the Lewis is silent. What about the Avid, is it silent?

If this refers to gapping: Some say that it's about moving forward and upward, not kicking the drivetrain. I improved my width a lot when I made that change decades ago. Friend of mine (>300 cm, unlike my measly hops) says that he only adjusts the pedal position forward during the jump, to retain a good platform to push against. Squatting on the rear wheel also helped me.

Pressing the front tire against something fixed, then steer. Standing really steep, or with an obstacle wedged between the wheels or even hooking makes it a lot easier, to the point where you can do it on flat walls. Put the front wheel on a wall of 30 to 70 cm, wheels straight, use the front brake to stop again when you roll forward, back brake open. Stand straight but relaxed, and correct your balance by steering a little.

I enjoyed watching that, really good battle.

> 7 weeks So it's the sitting, not the biking? Other than that, I can only advise to actively relax on the bike and get more range. Makes movements more fluid and impacts soft.