stirlingpowers

Oh thank you. I didn't see that.

Just tried to get some past results from the UCI website, but as usual, it is completely useless. I heard Marti Vayreda keeps some archive. Is there any page that archives the results? C1 would be nice, but world cups, European and world champs would even be enough for me.

It seems the Inspired Hex street trials bike has something like 73 cm effective stack (bottom bracket to hand position), and 48 cm effective reach. You could ask the shop to verify these numbers if you choose to buy a new stem + handlebar. And 26 street trials bikes got a 22:18 gear ratio. You want one finger on the brake levers. First goals are trackstand, balancing by moving the front and rear wheel, then learning how to pull the front wheel up smoothly (no head shake), which will open up manuals, pedal ups and bunny hops. You can try back hops, endo 180, 180 while learning that. These should cover the first few years.

Last year, I got me a 29" trials MTB rigid thing, and it is a failure. Frame was made by mi-tech.de, and they couldn't get the chainstays to spec in two attempts, now 450 (!), so I caved for a discount to be able to ride in summer. Parts are Shimano, Ergon, I9, Comas 115 alu handlebars, Shimano trekking XT levers, Kinesis FML30B forks. Tires are easily snaked, but they look good. I9 wheels still work, but I don't trust them, feel fragile. With the crooked geo and the 29 wheels, it is simply too large for me, so I use it mostly for manual strolls and a few lame street tricks. So next up: 26" MTB hybrid. Wheels are ready (Aliexpress hubs & Hashtagg rims), rest of the components will be reused. After the shit show with Mi-Tech, they can go to hell. So where should I get the frame this time? Campmajo?

The climbing features were nice. Putting the huge moves at position two or three in sections cut it a bit short.

We are middle aged, so nothing of significance is going down on the bikes. Just fiddling with parts in the shed.

They have single speed hubs: https://www.dtswiss.com/en/components/hubs-and-rws/hubs-mtb/240 There could well be way more hubs, but I can't be arsed to go through their maze of ill-fitting customer guidance.

Thank you. We'll try DT, they sell these separately, so we will try if we can get our hands on the 90 tooth model, or something from Aliexpress...

We found this video, it seems it's screwed in now: https://www.hopetech.com/news/the-all-new-pro-5-hub/. Now only to get this part separately...

Is the tooth ring in the Hope Pro 5 separate from the hub body? On videos, it looks like it's one with the hub body, and it isn't separate on the parts list either. But I find that strange, should be steel. Asking for a friend's pet hub project...

Try a new short wheelbase, flat stem & high BB bike at some comp. It's day and night for backwheel moves. The pogo stick meme is real. You will have to say goodbye to rolling bunnyhops though. For geo there's only the shop and frame brand websites. And these miss many important values. No effective stack or reach info, for example. Street seems to be 73 to 75 cm above bottom bracket. From experience, at 181-182 cm body height, 70 cm stack is way worse compared to 74 for bunnyhops. 70 or 71 degrees steering angle is hard for front wheel spins compared to the 73-74 degrees on street bikes.

If you are not humongous, I'd recommend a used Jitsie Varial 24.

So if it's not the environmentally degraded grease in the hubs, maybe you should skip leg day in the gym

In the last 20 years, I broke just one freehub on my city bike (bought in 2000, cracked in 2021). I weigh 70ish. There has to be some detail in your gap technique that kills them. Or do you have some special dust or sand that clogs the pawls where you live or something? Like that fine Oz outback sand that gets through seals like it's nothing, I mean.

I could build a rear Shigura with an MT5 saddle, would probably be the least work to get a running bike. Thanks!

Got to resurrect the thread: My XT rear caliper started leaking after half a year of light pensioner use and room temperature storage. Also has a really loud knock that never got better, so I want something else. Mr. Clarkson@Ali C recently said that the Lewis is silent. What about the Avid, is it silent?

If this refers to gapping: Some say that it's about moving forward and upward, not kicking the drivetrain. I improved my width a lot when I made that change decades ago. Friend of mine (>300 cm, unlike my measly hops) says that he only adjusts the pedal position forward during the jump, to retain a good platform to push against. Squatting on the rear wheel also helped me.

Pressing the front tire against something fixed, then steer. Standing really steep, or with an obstacle wedged between the wheels or even hooking makes it a lot easier, to the point where you can do it on flat walls. Put the front wheel on a wall of 30 to 70 cm, wheels straight, use the front brake to stop again when you roll forward, back brake open. Stand straight but relaxed, and correct your balance by steering a little.

I enjoyed watching that, really good battle.

> 7 weeks So it's the sitting, not the biking? Other than that, I can only advise to actively relax on the bike and get more range. Makes movements more fluid and impacts soft.

When I still rode single speed, I just cleaned the factory-lubricated chain with a dry cloth, and ran it mostly dry.

I appreciate the Shin Dig work for the sport very much, watched several of their world cup streams already. Regarding popularity and sponsor moneys, Trials can not leave its niche without regular-looking MTBs, riders pedaling normally in the sections, doing bunny hops and rolling gaps.

That helps, a lot. THANK YOU! So your effective stack should be slightly above 710 mm. With this abomination https://www.ergotec.de/en/products/vorbauten/sub/ahead-vorbau/produkt/high-charisma-31-8.html, I have 720 mm, but I can lower to 710. Feels a lot better than the 680 I previously had.

I feel every centimeter in effective stack, a lot. Once you can back hop somewhat, have a go on a modern comp bike, those with the really flat long handlebar stem combos. It's astonishing what you can do on the backwheel on them. I once struggled going over ten small wooden posts set up in a circle. I switched to a friend's comp bike, immediately nailed it, and with ease. On the other hand, these bikes are painful to bunnyhop, at least if you don't want to land on the front wheel somewhere high up. It's a combination of reach & stack, of course, but stack is certainly doing its part in the different feel.