stirlingpowers

Back to topic, Boosters: Look at your rear brake area while braking. With modern reinforced frames, the mush often originates from bending brake clamp screws.

Hands.

Thanks. I'll keep that in mind when I need a new rim.

I can't turn my eyes away from this horror. Nice angles on the Echo crankset, btw. @Mark: Can you recommend anything sporting parallel sidewalls, single wall bed and top brake performance? Weight and color don't matter, I cut and sandblast anyways.

I have to stop reading this thread.

I understood, and I believe he told the truth. For reasons of sanity, I will try to forget it, however.

What.

That's trial parts in general, not just Trialtech. @OP: Holy moly.

And now for something completely different: Serious advice. - Tarty tutorial video on grinding, remember to re-grind when surface gets dull - usually and without sandy/dusty conditions, every few weeks or so. And this tutorial: http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/topic/176715-how-to-grind-a-rim/ - Parallel brake pads adjustment, see http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/topic/176741-how-to-setup-hydraulic-rim-brakes/ http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/topic/177318-how-to-face-magura-mounts-do-this-before-rim-brake-setup/ - No air in the hydraulic system: http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/topic/176712-how-to-bleed-a-pre-2011-hydraulic-rim-brake/ http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/topic/176760-2011-hs11-hs33-bleed-information/ Stopping the wheel while rotating in the air with a light push of the brake lever should result in a very, very short squeal and the very important "clunk" sound coming from the immediate stop of the wheel. When rolling at slow speed, a well set up brake will bite aggressively, stopping the bike underneath you immediately with a short, loud squealing sound. You are aiming for this: Material and advanced stuff: - Good brake booster (my favourites for hydraulics are Jitsie 4-point if rich or 2-point Magura Evo2), alu brake pad backings will help as well. - A rim with parallel sidewalls is often the difference between an awful and a dream brake. - If you have a parallel-type rim, you could buy aftermarket brake clamps for hydraulic brakes, which do not have the o-ring for angular adjustment, but instead rely on parallel rim sidewalls. Fewer degrees of freedom in brake pad angles will make adjustment easier. Examples are TNN or Jitsie, but not Echo SL clamps. - Water bleeding the hydraulic brake makes for a quicker response and usually doesn't wreck the sealing, some antifreeze for harsh winter conditions is recommended. - 2014 HS33 is your value for money choice for the main brake components. If rich, you could upgrade to Racing Line or even Clean brake levers, for the stylez. The most robust levers are 2003 model year Magura HS33 and also 2005 ones. To the latter, one can fit Magura or Racing Line four-finger levers for more braking force. - Then, there is still the combination of brake pad and rim material. Echo rims and Heatsink yellow pads, I think, are one example of a good match, or TryAll K2 rims and Coustellier or Croco pads another (please correct me on this if I am wrong, I run a rather exotic 24 combination). In the above video, TNN ADM (which I could not get to work with angled Bonz rear rims, but they are the cat's ass on Bonz front and Because rear) and Rockman rims are used. - Tar or violin wax/resin is for immediate help in the field, I've seen brakes performing under all conditions faultlessly without that stuff for weeks.

I'd start with selling a light and still very leak-proof brake lever, which would give me a hard-to-beat reputation for quality for my whole brand.

I agree, it would be fragile. But at more than three times the price of an HS11 lever (and admittedly high fixed costs), perhaps there are a view cents left to bankruptcy. What about some sort of hook and eye connection? Sorry about my English, I don't know if that is the right term for it - I mean a rectangular opening over almost the whole width of the handlebar clamp to distribute pressure for fitting accuracy, and an evenly wide hook on the counterpart.

Hinge mechanism? Would still have the screw, gap and the hinge on the side pointing away from the riders knees, keeping the other side flat and smooth. Another idea for the next version: Nicely integrated screw for the lever pivot...

The lever is out now: http://trial-world.com/en/brake-levers/529-clean-t13-brake-lever-.html 120 Euros, 62 grams, 7075 T6, plastic piston, one o-ring, knee-friendly clamp, made in Spain

There were 6.3 Montys with rim brakes...

Nice video. You have a remarkably undamaged shin area for this advanced level of brakeless riding.

Giacomo Coustellier has won the final, Jack Carthy very close on second place, Gilles Coustellier placed on 5th, and therefore not in the Superfinal.

No tar. Just broken. in tears. No.

in Mannheim, Germany:

Gilles Coustellier doesn't even put much effort into it. He must be able to 330+.

biketrial.ch

My Rockman has endured 800 hours of my intermediate-level riding by now, no kidding. But I don't wedge the bike very often, and I am lightweight. I have been doing trials for about 3000 hours (give or take 500) in my life, I reckon. Perhaps I just got a really well-built outlier...

I know.

I've been riding other bikes before the Rockman, you know.

Somehow, they made it.