dezmtber

sounds glazed to me. u need to rub the rotor and pads with sandpaper. give the rotor a real good rub down and vlean too. maybe need new pads.

i now have an onza master. which i got as standard spec. since i have fitted an onza pro front wheel 28 spoke hope trialzone brakes rear VIS hub on onza pro diamond rim nukeproof electron pedals some pics of the new rear wheel and brake

great video. and good riding the slow mo is a nice touch, imo a little over used in the vid. one clip looks amazing with the rain in slow mo too, the camera focused rally well on the rain and the riding, no blur either. if possible the slow mo with the camera paning round would look phenomonal. its just hard to keep a steady path with the camera hand held. it gives more angles and better depth perseption.

grinding may well reduce the strenth of the stays. it probbably not worth the bother. but dont worry about selling it, if you ride it well enough it will be snapped in a year or two or at least full of dents

i now have a sheet of 3mm thick carbon, made from weaved carbon wet layed and pressed at 40tons under a vacum while it set. tommora i am cutting it out for some dh bike mods, on harry heaths bike, you will see a post for these parts as i think the trials bikes using gears may like. but i will be video taping some tests to show just how strong carbon can be, belive me this carbon is stupidy strong the sheet i have is a5 size and it hardly bends at all.

the halo spindoctor is pants. the bearings will last a few months. but the hub is really cheap. the spin doctor pro is very good its just the same as the old hope xc hub, only you can change the axle to 12mm bolt through ect... at the min the halo spindoctor pro is on offer everywhere for about £50 thats a great deal. the only problem is no spare pawls just freehub bodies with the paews n springs. but buy a hub and spare freehub and it should last you ten years with new bearings each year to 6 months. all the better halo hubs are fantastic value for money, and perform just fine. hope hubs are better quality as in more precise and the spares are readily avalable and warranty on hope is second no none, they pretty much replace any broken hope part. and thats what you pay for if you buy hope pesision and warranty. and its worth the extra. just for that. this year for my xc bike i am using the cheaper halo spindoctor pro hubs rear and xcd front thou. i used hope before and they were very good never failed once .

a simple explanition is with ground rims you can ride down hills dragging the brakes. try and just keep the use of the brake to stoping dead on trials riding. i ground my rim quite heavily and the rode down from the roaches like i was on my dh bike my grind was wrecked in 3 mins. and my pads nearly half gone

i have got a set of nukeproof electrons and there great. 338g the pair no mods nukeproof pedals same weight as echo tr pedals. and i have seen that nukeproof do ti axles for there alloy pedals i just need to see if those axles fit theses pedals. best bit about these pedals is the retail at £35 a pair

i will get some samples of carbon sheets tmz and do some test for you guys here it is very very strong stuff put together correctly. i say if you want to trust in carbon bike frames its not all about the material it about the prosess they use when building, testing and designing the frames. i can list a few companys whom i would never buy carbon frames from cannondale ie crack n fail lapierre ie crackierre whyte ie thats the colour of the filler they use . x lite handle bars cracked from new kenesis has anyone even looked at there carbon seat stays, just no i have seen snaps in all of these. but that doesnt mean all will snap. just saying i havent yet seen a giant carbon snapped but thats the only company i know of making there own carbon weave from carbon on reels.not prepreg or wetlay ect.. if made properly, i cant see why bike companys cannot suppy a raw frame cut in half as a show frame to let the customer see what there buying into. if this were law i think a lot of carbon bike would have never been sold.

the sus forks hes using air xc forks would be best. i would recomend rockshox reba with 20mm axle and put in travel spacers to 80mm travel

i will have to get a better vid of some hard riding on the tires.

cf is very stong but most carbon frames fail on the bonded joins to the alloy dropouts, pivots, bb and headset areas. and punctures from sharp rocks. alloy will bend and dent when a sharp rock hits the downtube where carbon would be left with a small crack like a stone chip in a window. althought those are easily repaired by patching the crack. but i have to say the most common is a dropout or the main pivot dislocating from the chainstays. a completely one piece carbon moulded frame would be massivly strong

from xc riding tubeless i would recomend a tire that has slightly thicker sidewalls like maxxis exo tires. they are designed to be run with tubeless sealant. fenwicks are bringing out a sealant u can paint onto the inside of the tire. and run inside as liquid will last over one year without drying. really light xc tires wouldn't last even with tubes on a trials bike. today i took the tubeless setup to the roaches to see it tested properly. i had no problems my self running 18psi front and 18 psi rear. i let my frind try it to see if 15 stone made a difference ther ear burped twice on a sharp rock but sealed right back up fine each time and it only burped when the tire was bottomed out on the rim.

i haven't well yet. just got my eye on a house with garden space for trials

that would make the guy 10 years old when i rode with him he was i would say 16-17 back then so he would be, 27 ish now

folding tyres are much better having a kevlar bead on them which wont strech like a steel bead. giving better long term hold on the rim

i really cant remember which bike, i am sure someone was riding an old monty 20" thou the guy looks a bit albeno blond hair n stuff you couldn't miss him really

basicly if i can get it to work right, you will only change the tyre when the tread is worn out. punctures will be sealed using stans and i can always top it up through the valve when enver i like. pros: lighter and i can use tryall sl 2.5 and schwalbe Mow Joe 20x2.0 Folding tyres loosing around 450g no pinch punctures no thorn or small glass punctures should be able to run lower presures lower rolling resistance due to thiner overall rubber cons: cant change my tyres without a hell of a mess it is possible only in extremes to pinch the tyre sidewalls,( which would have resulted in tube puncture ) the lighter front tyre is not tacky trials compund. (bmx racing tyre) fiddly job when replacing new tyres it can take a few days for the glue to seal correctly (normal tubeless is instant)

thats why i am glueing the tube to the tyre, so they are as one and keep it all on the rim. so far the rear using rim cement has worked. and the front using rubber cement has failed, but still holds presure. i am considering glueing and stitching the tube to the tyre to get it prperly secured

i started when i got my first fulltime job when i were 16. because i never could afford a trials bike and make do on a 21" merida dakar, with 18 gears i started on a steel ralegh hardtail jump bike i modified. then got a hawyes replica. lost intrest due to my mates moving away and only neing able to ride with dh riders and dj riders. so started up freeriding and northshore, i built so much shore localy until the redrow housing tore it down all 20 tons of platforms three skips of it went. then i moved onto 4x and going to chicksands alot. with my new job last year i got a sc bike and now decided to get back onto the trials bike and compete whenever i can (never did before as i didnt drive) cant wait to go bracken rocks now

i am going to find out tommora mate. out on the bike i ahve left it over 24 hours to dry n stick properly. i may even try running sily low presures i already run 15psi in the rear and 20psi in the front. i will go out and try to fold the tyre on perpose. if it works i will post pics of the work for u guys to give it a try. i amgoing to call it ghetto tubularless

a bit of a long shot, but i rode hull ages ago with my freind. dez and keith. we rode a martin hawyes repica and a onza t-rex. rode there near the humber bridge and mett cal and some of his mates. just wondering if you guys still ride ?

i am trying out keeping the extra bit of tube left over and glueing it to the tyre to stop the burping its quite tricky i will keep u posted on what works. all ready tryed tub glue and pucture repair glue see how it goes

i am going to use schwalbe 14" tubes (due to having screw thread on the valve) stans sealant. and double rim tape just to be careful and to build up the rim to seat the tyre better. i am getting to it tmz. i keep every one posted on how well it fits and what it withstands after fitting fitting to an onza master 20" trial bike