dezmtber

i know how a autoclave works and how to use one and the procesure. although i havent done the math on just what 150psi vacum pressure will apply directly on the carbon and resin in a vac bag. but i am saying is cabon in a autoclave at 150psi vac. surely wont be going under the same as cabon under 40 tons plates. both plates and autoclave have heat on them and a vac bag so its only the pressure thats different good carbon consists of two things, no voids (air trapped) which weave is bad for and uni diretional is very good for. and low resin content, the more carbon to resin the stronger. i only know a litte about carbon, i only know how to make the stuff as my old job before bike mechanic. i would take my hammer to the lapierre chainstay we have snapped at work (not the 1st we now dont deal lapierre) but they want it back

so i dont bulk up on protien too much didnt anyone read this ? i dont want loads of protien or carbs to build masses of muscle, theres plenty here allready. i was looking to burn more fat than carbs when i ride.

yep deffiniltly m5 pal

torq carnitine powder looks good just have it mixed up in robinsons and drink it each day. to get light and strong

power bar protien plus i have been using these before and after riding i cant say i have noticed a massive difference, but i only ride 2-3 times a week. some times only an hour or so. should i be using it daily. if were to use it daily i was thinking of using liquid carnitine power bar liquid so i dont bulk up on protien too much

as far as i knew an auto clave cannot produce the same pressure as a 40 ton press. they work on making a vacum in the space inside to apply pressure, but 40 tons would be some auto clave

i have only fitted discs to two 20" trials bikes so far. and i have seen a set or 09 echo forks with mounts out of line. and also my onza master rear disc mounts were out of line luckily one of the sets of discs were avids so there were no problems just use the adjustable washers to line them up. as for my hope trial zone brakes, i have filed the is to post mount adaptor to line the brake up, put longer bolts on and fit avid washers to the back of the bolt to line it up. i will get u a picture, it shows its a hell of a lot out of line. really quite dissapointing as i havent seen one this bad on both the onza and echo. in ten years as a bike mechanic.

i used the 40 ton press to make that 3mm thick carbon sheet. none of the bike frames u see are made using the same kind of pressure to squeese out the resin. i dont think i could have made a stronger piece to test with

rode the roaches today the brakes were awsome. only problem i had was the rear started sqealing when i rode around. but still worked fine maybe needs a bleed. and this was before hope trialzones i will get some fotage of the brakes landing gaps up and pics of the full bike, gonna go ride some pallets on tuesday

here is my very own carbon test just for you lot i will have to do a 3mm thick alloy one the same to show the difference but even i was shocked at the results

i just fitted a whole load of ti bolts. i got bolts for : the bash plate x3 m6 counter sunk the wheel axles x4 m6 the brake disc bolts x12 m5 the levers x4 m5 the top cap and front of the stem x5 m6 i am going to get the bolts to the disc mounts next.

i was thinking of some one maybe making an adaptor to fit 83mm cranks some how. but i am sure it wont work

i tend to do it this way its never failed once. 1st i get the tools needed 1, freewheel tool 2, a long bolt 80mm long 3, the nut to fit the bolt 4, two large thick washers. 5, a vice (good strong one) 6, a large rubber or nylon mallet the tequnique, 1st bolt the tool to the crank so it isnt going to damge the to fixing points under pressure. the vice grip the tool. then you can swing the large mallet onto the crank arm to shock the freewheel undone. remember to hit the crank in reverse to which you pedeal the bike. if this fails in emergencys you can try one or two very hard hits from a lump hammer (this will dent the crank but only as much as you do on rocks ect...)

try cyclestore.co.uk they have all the shipping abroad prices on there site allready

those hope trial zone rotors seem nice and light and much stronger than floating rotors

i would get a tub of hope silicon oil. you can put it on the pistons to keep the seals well oiled, i find seals last well over twice as long oiling them once every month or so

if its still within warranty he will be given a new frame if it snaps. so no worries if its secondhand then keep youe eyes open for cracks. there are diffent grades of carbon makeup. the fibers are all the same. allthough there are many ways of manufacturing the fibers into a finished product. 1st you get two differnt carbon fiber sheets one weaved and one unidirectional (fibers only layed in one dirction rather than crossed) with weaved carbon you can alter the tighteness of the weave and how broad the sets of fibers. with unidirctional carbon, this type is currently the strogest type you can get, but its such a ball ache to lay. with out the weave the sheets are very fragile and break up very easily. buy layed correctly and in the right directions you need for stenght this type of carbon contains the least resin possible. carbon grades are measured in the levels of carbon to resin in the end product. a very good strong and light carbon contains more carbon to resin. a weaved carbon wil contain more resin due to the gaps betwwen the cross over in the weave. the resin content of carbon is reduced by bakeing the product at 200 degrees and applying pressure in a autoclave to squese out the resin between the carbon. a lot of cheper carbon producta are produced using a wet lay teqnuiqe. where the carbon i just layed onto a mould just like paper mashe. and left to dry. most bike frames are made in the same way, only diffrence is they then inflate massive condoms inside the frame to apply pressure and then ar backed in an autoclave to allow the resin to thin up and flow out of the carbon mould. carbon sheets for space shuttles are made up and then set under a press putting 40 tons pressure on the sheet.

an air for genraly has one sidehop full of air as the spring or elastomer. and the other side with two damping pistons on lowere piston for rebound damping (the return rate) and one higher for compresion damping (the speed which it uses travel) lockout is very basicly a hole which is plugged by a rod to stop oil flow. forks with a blowoff valve lockout system basicly the valve which the lockout rod locks is mounted onto a very hard spring which once this spring is compressed it hits a point which another rod hits a blow off valve to reopen the closed lockout valve. rear shocks use the same damper system, with the air chameber on the outside or the damper. if you have a rear shock you can let out all the air and unscrew the air chamber from the outside to reveal the damper sytem on the inside. a stytem that would be very good for stilts would be simmilar to a air pogo stick. with a damper rod inside, simmilar to car boot struts.

i cant help but notice the loads of bike vids with people snapping chains. its made me think maybe i should be changing my chain way more often. i am thinking of buying a new chain every say 4 months or less. its not a lot of money realy a kmc kool chain is under ten pounds on the internet. and it could save months of the bike injured

i have fitted the hope trial zone to my mod bike last week. there awsome so far, and silly light weight. i will see how they work on natural stuff soon. i will be at bracken rocks competing march 18th if anyone wants to have a go on my brakes you can feel free to. the post mount is brilliant i have got mine to work well with no rubbing at all, my wheels spin freely. and the brakes feel great on the 160mm rotors too.

the square bits will be a part keeping it strong. once you cut them out the pedal may only last say 5-10 hits on that area. till it snaps

i havent been lucky enough to try the old ones. they feel much better than shimano deores. more modulation on these. the deore is very sharp on the lever feel. but does not hold as well as the hope i am running 160mm rotors front and rear. in comparison to brakes i have ran before they are on par with the power i had from avid codes on 203 rotors. i will give a full review when i have had them out on the rocks at the roaches and will quote on hold under the pressure of steep sections an how well it allows you to go and stop. i have also set them up very well both wheels spin freely without any rubbing from the pads.

the superstar gold pads are semi metalic pads. a quick break down of brake pad material pros n cons: semi metalic pros: great ware rate. (due to its harder compund) better heat handling as the metalic compound takes heat into the caliper and produces less friction. cons: less braking power only works well under high tempratures (they often glaze over at low temps) organic pros: soft compound gives good brake performance will still cut a the pad surface at low temperatures (will not glaze easily) cons: poor ware rate poor heat handling basicly trials is best with organic pads. dh or xc is best using semi metalic.

hope do a no9 caliper (post mount) now then you can pick and choose what size you want. 180mm should be enough for a stock thou

the new brakes are sooo bloody good. even on the 160 rotors. i really cant wait to get them up to the roaches and see how they hod on the rocks.