dezmtber

if your bringin the sunshine i am in too no dont matter about the weather i will come either way

just got a new frame fork n stem to replace the onza

i just got my mortgaga through so depending on my moving date i reaal arent sure if i can make it to fort bill

post mount pal.

my mate will be selling a set of very special hope brakes, he bought 4 sets of hopes 2 trial zones and 2 tech x2 he has the tech levers on the zone calipers on his 20" and will be selling the trial zone levers on the x2 calipers those will be some good brakes for anyone looking for trial brakes capable of some trail riding. they are basicly the x2 race brakes with the trial zone longer levers. they should run nice on 185mm rotors. he wil be looking for £150 for the pair, ( no rotors or mounts just the brakes rrp £270+) calipers unused levers one month old

i was going to get the tent out n do it the cheap way. tent and loads of bike locks

u beat me to it i was goint to ask the same thing so we go in your car or mine? i would be going in my 02 civic 1.6 with bike rack what you got ?

i would be tempted ton use a dmr trailstar or cannondale badboy

i like it good video making. really good riding too very similar to my level too 2nd on the helmet though its worth getting one.

i am entered senior

i find these are just fine and all of these failed either snapped or just unlinked while riding sram wippeeman shimano if you insist in using gears, i would say your best going for the lowest amount of gears possible to give the chain the space to be as wide as it can be for gears. so just keep it to 7 or 8 speed gears they use much stronger chains. and the 7/8 spd chains are easier to use the original links to reconnect the slit chains where 9 and 10 spd chains are not recomended for reconnection

i am taking a huge guess what the numbers mean on saying i think they are the year and week made so 15-08 would be week 15 in 2008 and 47-06 is week 47 2006. or it could mean something totalt different #all i do know is the cup will be the same, the only slight difference will be the smaller alloy shim closer to the centre of the bb to setup the axle length correctly

i used one of these at the othe rbikeshop i worked at dt tenso honestly a good wheel builder will find that the spokes are all pretty much spot on before fine tuneing the wheel with one of these. the old get the spoke length right and turn the nipples all one turn at a time till they feel positivly tight until the spoke flexes under your hand about 3mm ish

i am amazed at how many cyclists use wd40 on there bike ? wd40 is used to penetrate rusted parts and unseaze them (not as an oil) as it is water based and the other ingredeints are lots of nasty chemicals. which actualy detroy ruber parts like brake seals. you should use brake cleaner and the lube with o ring lube or silicon lube.

to anylize this properly on here i will need a picture of the front 22t cog the 12t cog on the rear with no chain on and cleaned. the hub freehub body from the side with all the pawls, all cleaned off and the ring drive inside the hub shell all cleaned. clean the grese of with kitchen towel as using gt85 wd40 ect... will dry out the seals on the bearings. casing any oil you use to lube the wratchet to contaminate and ware out the bearings. i fear the pawl springs have snapped on your hub leaving only a few pawls to drive the hub or you have smashed the tips of the drive ring in the hub during heavy load. or (unlikely) your cogs are worn out and the chain is slipping over the teeth

basicly if its just a noise but still bites and drives at the same time as the noise its more than likely to be the freehub. if its a noise and the drive goes all together leaving you with no bite/drive at all its more than likely to be the chain slipping over the cog. this guy says its intermitent, an intermitent slip is more commonly a tooth on the drive ring on the freewheel has been chipped. inside the hub there is a drive ring similar to this if the teeth are not all sharp and like new your hub will skip. and check the pawls too for any damage. if the hub has damage you will need to send it to where you bought it for possible warranty work (if you have the original recipt) if you dont have the recipt you will need to buy a new hub shell and rebuild your wheel. expencive

try opening the hub freehub body and checking the pawls and the teeth on the drive shell inside the hub body for any damage. most of the hope hubs i have seen are built with the same sort of greace in tensile freewheels. it can help to clean it out and replace the greace with chain oil for wet conditons.

its simple you get what you pay for in the bike industry as competition is so tight between manufactures. i will be getting a neon bow once i crack my onza master. i actualy think imo the bow looks quite similar (not the top tubeits the the drop outs, gussets ect.. that are similar) to the koxx sky and with a £750 price tag on that. its a good comparison for price. i know the koxx uses better metals and proceses.

i will be booked in asap senior class

i am taking some freinds up on the 17th to have a test ride of the northshore if anyones local to it please drop me a pm

i shall get myself booked down for this at the end of the month. sounds like a really good do

i have prety much seen it all with brakes. ( been a bike mechanic for 8 years now) old hopes you should steer clear of they are not powerfull enough. the tech trials are spot on the trialzone brakes are also very good (i use them) the new shimano deore discs are also very bloody good cable brakes: avid mechanical brakes are the best imo. hs33 or hs11 work fine for most of us really, you will only notice a big difference in the wet. pros and cons: hydro disc pros, power in the wet, pads last longer, hydro disc cons,its very easy to contaminate the pads with chain oil or spray oils if you have a seal go or a leak from the connetors it can ruin the pads. mecanical disc pros, power in the wet, pads last longer mechanical disc cons, you can contaimainate the pads with oil, cabels can snap (very rare) old cables cause friction losing power. hs33 pros, great hold in the dry, a good sharp lever feel hs33 cons, the levers are can break commonly 2005 model, you ware out rims and they cost u dollar brake pads ware quicker. costs: hydros front and rear £180 deore, £340 hope rrp + 1year pads £30 bent disc x1 £25 mechanical £165 avid mechanical rrp +1year pads £30 bent disc x1 £25 hs33 £160 rrp + 1year pads replaced 3 times and one rim (if using grind) £130 pads at £15 per set front and rear listed as they cost you avid mechanical 1 year use total £220 shimano deore 1year use total £235 hs33 1 year use total £290 Hope trial 1 year use total £395 i hope these figures help you see which is the best value for you, u also will need to consider if you dont have disc hubs or disc tabs on your frame its just not cost effective to do the upgrade to discs till you have upgraded these 1st.

give me a pm if you wanna come half an hour north and ride the roaches sometime

just put my vote in several times. those treks are some piece of kit, i quite often do some repairs on harry heaths WC trek, we had it on the scales at 36lbs for a 8" dh bike thats amazing. http://www.uniortoolsteam.com/team/195-harry-heath