dezmtber

simply motor bikes have 2 discs to handle much greater heat from high speed slowing down. trials bikes are much better going with larger discs and larger clipers. to get more power through a single caliper. as there are no problems handleing heat. also some people do fit larger discs, which wont create the correct operating temp to cut fresh surfaces on the brake pads and you end up running a polished pad with no fresh pad serface to grip the rotor. the best disc setups are genraly 185 rotors on hope or deore brakes, and you need to use them on a good downslope now and again to get them to there operating temp. if you dont you will need to sand down the pad surface every now and again and re bed them in.

rolling clutch its very simmilar to the rb tracktor hubs

lots of snow on the ground makes it hard work

just use the old 180mm mount on the original brake it should work, if its post mount(4 bolts) not is mounted (2 bolts).

winner winner chicken dinner

just entered yeay

the tech x2 uses a smaller brake pad to the trial or v2. best you could do is get organic pads or soft compound aftermarket ones ( allthough i dont think anyone does them) you could possibly cut the hope trials pads down to fit your x2 caliper as they are a simmilar shape just wider and taller. so cut the sides and bottom down. and use a larger rotor 183 or 203 will do. as for bedding in water and light braking until a good sharp bite is spot on

my mum always used to tell me "youll break you bike again, bouncing round on that suspension" on a rigid trials bike ha ha it was about 10 years ago thou and last week an old feller, asked me for a lighter, then told me about his bro daz, then stared calling me daz, even after i said my name is dez about 3 times D: then he said my mates got potential and we need to get on that internet thing

never heard of headset cups moving, but i see where your coming from ish

second that 260g is good. i think even the 3" ones would only be about 300g its a shade lighter than halo 3" tubes 1000g (1kg)

i used to own a honda crx. which the front brakes were pretty much permanantly blue in colour and on track days they would smoke from the heat generated ( and when i say smoke like smoke pouring over the bonnet like a small burnout, basicly the brake pads were on fire) i would not be fittng larger brakes unless this happens to your car on track days or you see blue ish colours on the originl rotors. other wise the pads wont reach there optimum temperature for good working operation.

i am going to try setting up my mod tubeless one day if your on 24 or 26 you could try it with a stans rim strip. although you may have problems with tires pulling of the rim?

only ever use lithium greace on bearings and nothing else,lithium grease is no good for anti seaze i use silcon based marine greace i find it much better it has better temperature handling regular cyclists will benefit more using better waterproof silicon based grease which also will keep your rubber seals fresher and not cause them to dry up. silicon grease litium grease if your going to buy some grease get some marine silicon greace and some copper slip i use these white lightning crystal grease and shimano anti seazei use this because its not as abrasive as copper slip, we use it because it doesnt damage bike seatposts annodizing when moving it up and down loads

i still use the bash ring on my xc bike

just spray loads of silicon spray on the alloy once every so often it keeps most corrosion away

ello. i have been fixing my own bikes for 20 years. and been fixing bikes in idb shops for 8 years now. and took the cyctec level 2 and 3 nvq and hers what you should be doing - Headset : i use shimano anti seaze on the cups only if the metals are different. to avoid corrsion - BB cups :again anti seaze i use all the time on bb cups there a nighmare to remove without it - Crank-bb spline :anti seaze on any tipe except square taper. ( i have nver been told why thou) i asume the square taper could get damaged if there is any movement - Crank bolts :anti seaze also for obvious reasons - Pedal/crank threads : anti seaze copper slip is best for threads - Cog and freewheel threads : anti seaze copper slip. i do also find marine grase is very good on bikes as it silocon based and works on pretty much any surface including bearings. white lighting do one for bikes now

i have been on here for ages but took a massive break off trials to ride northshore and 4x its great to be back into trials, i have missed it

sure i remember watchin this when i was about 17-18 1st vid i saw was burning calves

no just long bolts and washers

we eat living things fact : whats the difference pal

i look out of my kitchen window to the roaches, staffordshire. its just the best place for natural riding i also quite like to get the xc bike up there too

i have a few tricks up my sleeve thwy will fit once i have fiddled around a bit i know they are designed to fit evolution v brake mounts

looking forward to going 2 bolt on the boosters currently running a echo 4 bolt.