CurtisRider

My chain keeps snapping even though its new (well, barely ridden), kinda odd as ive had the same model before with no issues, its a taya thing. I want a new chain and cant decide what to get, i dont use my mtb much, and its generally for dry weather only as im gay. Cheaper the better within reason, will pay extra for quality

Not trying to defend the f**ktards, but some cars require complete headlight removal to change a bulb, so regardless of having to carry a kit or not, its not going to be withing some peoples abilities to do that. Ive been pulled twice, once for going to slow (i had just passed and had a cop up my arse-wasnt exactly sure what to do so went slow ) and another time for skipping red lights at 3 in the morning. Both were really cool about it and helpful

I found silicone spray to achieve better results than wd40/generic brand with the same stuff inside.

Alot of people have had problems but mine was VERY reliable and i couldnt fault it at all!

Theres also a pretty decent one near me Sam, so about an hours journey for you if you still live where you used to.

After riding 3 pieces again myself, i cant go back to normal alloy cranks. Liking the build apart from the stubby stem

Right, varies from headset to headset depending on quality. From what i can see in a pic of a standard blade, you have a standard aheadset. On your old fork you will have a lower headset raced pressed onto it, remove that using a hammer and screwdriver, knocking around the circumference gently, dont hit the same area all the time as it wont come off and you will damage the race, also make sure you dont hit where the bearings make contact as this will make the headset feel rough when reassembled. Once the race is off, get your new forks and slide the race on, you will then need to tap it onto the bottom of the steerer (itll be thicker there and so gentle taps again until its on). I use a headtube off a bike that used 1inch forks to tap my races on, it works nicely For if you have sealed bearings Left hand side if you have open bearings.

Brake: Probably a sticky piston. Remove pads, push pistons in with screwdriver. Pull the lever whilst holding one piston in, so the oppposite one comes out a little (only pull the lever once, otherwise you risk the piston popping out and you then have to rebleed). Now spray some silicon spray on the piston. Push the piston back in. Repeat for the other side. Make sure when you set up the brake again, that you have the disc perfectly in the middle of the pads, if its to one side, 1 piston moves less and you start to get a lazy piston like you have currently.

Not unless you happen to own a 150mm spaced 12mm axle frame?

I'd Poke her Face

ditto

His riding skillz amaze me

Kris, i have a red hope xc on a black sun singletrack for sale if thats any interest to you?

I ran a v on the back of my monty mod, it was freaking ace i was using a dx32 which is narrow by todays standards though. I bum v brakes, after a few years being utterly appauled by maguras, but convinced thet they were the right choice as everybody else ran them, i decided eventually to stop being a sheep and got a v brake. This was about 5 years ago and since then, my brakes have always been sweet

Thats more like it, shame the seatube isnt a touch higher

or a bigger rotor

As much as id like to say avoid that, if you do decide to do it, please only do it where the grips slide on. Actually, avoid that

The rims seem an obvious route to go if thats what tickles your pickle. Bigger holes/square ones, and some extra little ones drilled between. Could also drill the sidewall like the old onza hogs up front

Id imagine he would have to had practiced sucking cock rather alot?

I shall try

205 is 4x108pcd and offset between 15-25 Megane is 4x100pcd and offset 35-42 So no im afraid. 4x100 is common as chuff though, should find millions cheap on ebay

Looks mega ace! I can extend the steerer on the forks if you are interested?

Many thanks dude hopefully get all that done tomorrow! Be good to get this laptop running fast again