AdamR28

I would guess around 13kg. Average would be 10-11kg I reckon. Anything under 9kg is VERY light* *All real weights, not T-F weights

Yes. Then the drive side, then both the bearings off. Take the BB out of the frame then it should become obvious If it doesn't become obvious, don't just bash at it, take it to someone who knows what they're doing

One batch of the T-Pro frames have an oversized BB shell (but only very slightly - not enough to notice). If you try and fit a 'normal' sized BB in then it strips the threads. Sounds to me like your LBS doesn't know about this and has made a bit of a mess of it... Your best bet is to get them to check the thread sizes on the two BBs, then if the old one is larger put the old BB back in and re-fit your old cranks. There should be enough thread left in the frame to do this. We're not open again until Tuesday now, but if you want some more help just give me a call. Good luck!

You will need some tools. Vice, mallet (NOT a hammer), pieces of wood/aluminium.

No, you need to leave the green spacer alone. It's the BLACK spacer with the Try-All sticker (the bit that you can't see until you take the BB out of the bike).

The same as the one you've still got in your bike Think it's M5 from memory, but your best bet is to take the other one down so they can simply match it.

Hmm, I think it will be the 122.5mm version, as this never happened on the 127.5. Anyway, if you take the BB out and take it apart, you will see two 'steps' on the axle. Measure this distance. Then, the black centre sleeve that has the Red Try-All sticker on it, measure the length of this. They should be the same to within about 0.1mm. If not, then you can use a file to reduce the length of the spacer. Not as neat but it will work!

and

Are you gong to be running rear disc or rim brake?

There are two problems here: 1. Using spacers between the crank and the stopper on the BB axle means that you are effectively running your crank loose. ISIS has a 1 degree taper, the cranks need to be run either tight with a small gap, or (when they are old) butted right up against the spacer on the BB axle. It sounds like your crank may have stretched a bit It's not catastrophic though, it will still work fine for ages. Just making people aware that putting spacers on your axle is a sure fire way to reduce the life of your cranks! 2. If your BB is a 122.5mm model, I believe there may have been a batch which weren't 100% at some point in the past. The centre sleeve of the BB is a little too long, which means that when cranks are new the BB runs fine, but when your cranks bed in and butt up against the green spacer, it side loads the bearings and makes the BB feel awful/stiff. It's hard to spot since when you take the crank off and BB out, the side load from the bearings is removed and the BB spins fine again. The solution is to machine down the centre sleeve (around 0.6mm from memory) so the bearings aren't side loaded any more. If you got the BB from us then feel free to send it to us and we'll sort it for you free of charge. Cheers! Adam

Only problem with that is that if your claim is for less than £5k, you have to pay all the costs even if you win I'll have a Google for you Matt... Edit: Looks like 'ACAS' will be worth a call, they're open til 8 tonight: http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Employment/ResolvingWorkplaceDisputes/DG_10027991 http://www.acas.org.uk/index.aspx?articleid=1364

Yep, Google is your friend! http://www.google.co.uk/#q=how+to+measure+ERD&fp=d1007c4880f2cdbd&hl=en Or just save your time and put 532 in as the ERD when you work out the spoke lengths.

The ERD is 532mm.

Leyland (North West) Lichfield (West Midlands) Limerick (Ireland) CTRL + F for the win

I didn't wanna say, but... Just ring them, say which shop you are from, what problems you are having, say 'I think I should be doing this, this and this, is that about right, is there anything else I should do etc'. They are always friendly and happy to help out

Yeah that's fair play, just curious Seems odd that there is nobody there who can help though, could give Hope a ring for some tips? I've only ever taken my bike to a shop for work once before, and never again. I have also worked in a few and know what most mechanics are like! I am sure there are good mechanics out there, but if you are able to do the work yourself then I don't see the reason to take it to a shop. I guess I should probably what I said above to 'I wouldn't trust any bike shop with my bike, apart from maybe a rear shock servicing, for which I would take them just the shock anyway '

Hang on - so you work at a bike shop?

What's CycleZone? I wouldn't trust any bike shop with my brakes.

You need to: Face the mounts on the frame. Bleed the brake - properly. Fit new pads and rotor that aren't contaminated (and haven't been contaminated in the past). Set it up correctly - rotor in the middle of the caliper.

... you do that pal

Sorry Ali, I don't get what you mean! Ah yes, sorry, just read up! :$

Do they have massive power or massive strength though? They are pretty different really, in trials especially. (Sorry if that sounds a bit 'arsey', it's not meant to!) Power = force x distance. Person 1 lifts a massive weight 1 metre. He is strong. Person 2 lifts that same weight the same distance in half the time. He is twice as powerful as the first guy. Person three lifts the same weight in the same time as person 2, but lifts it 2m. He is twice as powerful as person 2. This is why I believe flexibility is key to 'powerful' trials riding. If you can exert your strength over a greater distance then you are doing more work, and this putting more energy into the move. Type 2a muscle fibres ('fast twitch') are important too - Google plyometrics - since that will allow you to increase the speed at which your muscles do that work. Extra range of motion will also help you to move the bike further (sidehop tucking, hanging off the back for taps, etc). It's also VERY hard to train specifically in a gym for the random movements you do in trials. I guess you can increase general conditioning in the gym, which may help recovery times and prevent injury in some cases, but the only way to 'improve' your muscles correctly for trials riding is to go out and do it.

Sit on your arse for 6 weeks throughout summer? The tits or tyres one is good!

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