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bluecatracingcat

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Everything posted by bluecatracingcat

  1. Nice King. Some eejit pried the door back on our car to nick a recycling box full of empies???? Then the next day someone nicked our number plates.
  2. Hi all I want to try rimjams I can't find the guy selling rimjams... I know if I spent another hour just looking at random topics He'd appear with 'rimjams for sale' in his signature.. but life is too short. Did a search in for sale too. Can you help?
  3. Rim holes are offset left to right to goto the hub flanges lest to right... Try ebay...
  4. 2mm either way is ok but in the end the wheel still has to be at tension, so if they are too long the the thread will run out before optimum tension. If too short the build will be well tricky and if you do get it up to tension then the nipples could break as they don't have as much thread inguaged. Wheel smith online spoke calculator...
  5. sheldonbrown.com He's got a well explained method for lacing and the rest.
  6. Sorry I haven't read the whole post... But I have tried this and it doesn't work, the leverage is all wrong, lever like a rock even with a bit of air bled in. But if you realy want your hs33 lever then use a julie caliper, the ratio is about spot on. I use a Shimano deore 525 lever with a magura marta caliper and that rocks but I couldn't say it is better that the marta lever, I just had some bit in my box. Hope this helps.
  7. Well the digi is at work... But it just happens to be the last of 4 Cains finest bitter....mmmm....oh no only cheep asda OJ left.
  8. Not just a copy or a re-branded Try all. They have eyelets and a rounder profile. I have no idea if the alloy is harder wearing than others on the market. As for designs I don't think you can go too wrong with a wide double walled eyeleted rim with big holes drilled in it. not too expensive to produce. The only other thing I'd do if I was designing them is make them deeper so the have a biger braking surface and more resistance to flat spotting. Saying that if they are made out of harder alloy... As they say on here... meh.... Oh yeah and the new Black 8 back rim is 42mm wide so it'll fit in my pashley better... cool I'll get one when the time comes.... do you think they'll do lime green ano?
  9. I recently picked up a 1990 Primus double CD of a concert in Amsterdam, called Paradiso. I Have all their official releases but was wondering what else is out there. It seems to me that quite a few trials riders appreciate Les Claypool and the gang. There are two songs (Scared (My friend skinny) and Here I come) on paradiso, that aren't on official releases. Check the double ()^^^^ :blink: I've also got a live snippet of Les kicking off in the middle of Frizzle fry cause some guy spat on him... humour. You got anything unusual?
  10. Hiya I'm planning to go camping this weekend in Wales and riding in Coed y brenin (tomorrow). Anyone in Wales know how the weather is looking there? Just build up my grilfriends new custom steel frame and we are keen to put it through it's paces. It's hosing down here in Liverpool. :blink:
  11. Cover the brake in water and ride down hills with it half on until it stops honking like a goose then spray more water and repete until it works good. Also you said it was 475, Machanical right? Adjust the inboard static pads as close to the rotor as possable then use the barrel adjusted to get the lever reach you want. (don't touch the rotor brake surface with your sticky little fingers).
  12. If you want a front disc in a budget, get a /shimano M525 off CRC for £49.99 and get some EBC red pads fro £14.25 from cyclestore.co.uk And drill the holes bigger on the rotor with a drill press to make the brake more on/off.
  13. My girlfriends mum gave us one so I could watch the first episode of the new Dr Who. The telly is now in the basement...
  14. Event horizon (it's not scary at all) :D" I haven't read the whole thread, life is short. (and I don't have a telly). :ermm:
  15. Yeah Google is well random. Try Google imageing your own name or that or a co-worker. :ermm:
  16. ^^^ opps I mised reading page 4 ^^^ But if you look at the pic when it's hanging up at the show, you can clearly see through the hole in the bash ring (that he dosen't bash) and see no chain, this still suggests to me that there is a double up front. I could just be being a spastic. A double up front that is one tooth difference gives you closer gear ratio options. This is good if you is a fuss arse like myself and like to use a slightly higher gear for a long gap.
  17. If it's a single freewheel then the chain is off and resting on the edge of the freewheel on the inside of the teeth. But I'm sure it'll see many changes before long. I find 22 front to 19 rear too low and 22 fr to 18 rear a tad tall so having 1 tooth difference up front would be nice. bashrings getting a bit narrow though (And I hit more than I'd like)
  18. I've got one piece Breezer hanger on my frame so I don't want to bend it too often sooo... I've bolted an alloy hanger onto the fixed hanger then bolted the mech to this. It brings the mech foward and if you zip tie the mech up you get loads of wrap. I'll post a photo is a sec once it's uploaded. Hope this isn't monster size :lol:"
  19. If it was not there when the frame bb and cranks were new, then it needs a clean grease and tighten, don't grease the tapers though. If the noise has always been there it could be the weld in the bb area, but this is more common on mass produced cheap frames where the welder welds both down tube and seat tube to the bb at the same time causing an area of tube on the inside to have no weld at the join, causing creaking. (it's still called a seat tube even if you don't have a seat). Tighten bb cups drive side first as hard as you can with a 10-12 inch lever, then non drive too. (about 390-450 inch pounds) off the top o my head. And a bit less for the cranks.
  20. Replace your freehub bearings. With the freehub off use a screw driver to move the spacer off centre then use cerclip pliers to remove cerclip retaining the inside bearing then knock this one out, then knock the outside bearing out the inside hole. Then insert new bearings in the reverse order. I haven't done it in a while but I think it's correct, might want to check though. I'll see if I can find out more info. Leon hopetech Try this^^^ Maintainence rear cassette hub.
  21. Degreaser's an old trick we use in NZ but it doesn't last long, it's a bit like tar but you have to keep cleaning then re-appling it to get that bite. (lasts long enough for a short session). My Try-all rim and koxx bloxx do the ssshht noise too, but I haven't had the setup long enough to experiment, or even set the pads up flat to the rim as they only just fit, so I'll have to wear them flat then look at it.
  22. Yeah they just sort of hook in. But I wouldn't recomend them for anything more than xc. When you load and unload a wheel if the spokes are able to move back and forth they will fatigue and snap. A good quality hub like a Hope DT Swiss or King have very snug fitting spoke holes and this can make them a tad fiddlier to build but they make a vert durable wheel. If it's a front hub you should be OK for trials but I wouldn't waste a build on a rear.
  23. Yeah runny, like after a night on guinness
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