forteh

Oh to have the luxury of a table saw But yes, that sort of style but with the T&G infill rather than ply. I think once I have a router rigged up with a fence it should be pretty straight forward.

Was your will previously incorrect then? I trust you've left it all to Ted now you've corrected it

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Talking of router tables, I forgot I bought this for a tenner a couple of years back, obviously designed for a 1/4" router but I reckon I can probably rig mine up to fit. There's the same kit (albeit in slightly better nick and more complete) on ebay for 120 quid! Think I did ok with it, it's got the table, fence, sprung wood holding pushing guide thingy and a bunch of other bits I have no idea how they fit

Just measured the geometry Wheelbase 1080 Reach 330 Chainstay 430 BB Height 362 resting / 337 sag point Head Angle 65.5° Massively different to modern geometry!

It's silly small, I didn't realise just how short it was until I leant it up against my mates saracen ariel, best part of 5" shorter wheelbase!

With the length of the intense, I don't think that climbing is ever going to be an issue. It's so short you can always get your weight over the bars just by sliding onto the nose of the saddle. I reckon that the current trend of long, low, slack is just a fad and bikes are going to get short again

Having been driving to work for the last couple of days (due to having to go out on site and stuff) I've not ridden the bike since fitting the renthal. Cycled in this morning and holy shit, yes it almost manuals like my bmx now

It is a plunge router so I can alter cut depth no issue, I have a bunch of router bits (generic wickes multi pack of assorted and some plain shank worktop bits) but nothing of significant quality - I dare say for my limited usage top quality isn't a major issue for now. Something like this would be nice but way more than I can budget for. Would it be feasible to do a type of open top motise & tenon so I cut/rout a fork in the end of the upright and a single finger sized to suit the slot in the horizontal, glue the two together and clamp it square? Alternatively would a half lap joint be workable enough? I need some clamps, only have a single irwin quickgrip at the moment! The chopsaw has locks at the major angles with a quick release clamp so can repeatably switch from 90 to 45 to 30 in seconds.

I've got the firm spring in the fork, I'm right on the bottom range of the recommended weights for that spring rate but it gives great support and means I can back off the compression damping a little. Sits high in the travel but is still supple as anything and will controllably swallow up big hits, it's effectively a fox van36 rc2 but a third of the price! I've always struggled with the intense to loft manuals up to the balance point, the rear suspension would just absorb all the rearward weight transfer and drop the front end. I've been playing with the compression damping on the ccdba, increased high speed and reduced low speed a little and it now pops up like a hardtail unless I catch it badly. Just swapped my old sunline v1am 65x0° and 40 rise easton monkeylite dh for a renthal duo 50x10° and 20 rise easton haven carbon, the bar is now much closer and interestingly enough a little higher that it was. Not tested it out yet but I might be looping it out on manuals now

I did wonder about the transport cost but figured a pallet wouldn't be too bad. Guess I'll have a crack at it I have a 1/2" router (a big hefty erbauer thing I grabbed from a local FB page for 35 quid) which had an intermittent speed control fault, occasionally the power will drop and it will spin at about 20% speed, it normally picks up again soon enough so not too much hassle. What I don't have is a table so only have it for freehand work at the moment, the guides rails that came with it are shonky cheap plastic that have cracked so worthless. What I wanted to do was form the frame rectangular from the 2 1/2" x 3/4", rout out a 3/8" rebate on the inside back and panel it in with 5/16" T&G. I guess I could pretty easily rig the router onto a sheet of ply to make into a table, screw some gates on and jobs a good un. I don't think the router has a latch on the tigger though, that might be an issue. What's best practise for ensuring making the joints and ensuring they are square? I have access to a dewalt chopsaw which helps but the only method of jointing I have is glue and screw which often ends up slightly out of square. I don't want to ply back the doors if I can help it, it will leave an ugly edge with the doors open. I also don't really want to have to invest in biscuit tooling for one job (albeit would probably prov useful in the future). If I knew how to dovetail I would in an instant

Bilbo has both of our mobile number on his collar tag so shouldn't be a major problem, might have to put the car reg on his harness though, that's a good call. He's still a bit excitable by other people, dogs, leaves, pebbles and generally everything; if I attached a lead to him on a bike he would be dragging me through the bushes if he so wanted

My intense is massively overforked as well, originally intended for a maximum length of 140mm, for 170mm xfusion vengeance wound down to 160mm. The +20mm makes it very easy to loft manuals and slackens the head angle out from 70° to a slightly less twitchy 66.5° Still got a wheelbase like a bmx though Ought to give it a clean and get some new photos.

Took dogface out for the first time soloing off his lead (mrs wife has been doing the training so he responds to her commands much better). He was a goodboy™ and got fed lots of bits of cheese and frankfurter for coming back every time he was called Make a traildog out of him soon!

Some of you might know that I'm gutting and rebuilding my kitchen from scratch. Everything is hand made from solid wood, no chipboard or laminate in sight! I've almost finished all of the cupboard carcasses (open framed in 2x2 planed, topped with birch worktops) but need to make up some doors. Now I could put some together but I lack some of the tooling I would like to have to do the job properly and as it's the visual front end of the cupboards, consistency and repeatability is key. Looking for two sets of double doors nominally 900x800 aperture and a single door nominally 500x800 aperture. Door construction will be 2 1/2" border with T&G infill, total thickness of no more than 1" or so. Bog standard pine is fine, they're going to be painted. Knots and blemishes aren't an issue, it's a country kitchen style so function over perfection; rather have character than blandness Any one fancy a woodworking project? Hit me up with some ideas and cost, looking at you @Tom Booth & @CurtisRider

Picked up a 1-20nm norbar torque wrench for 17 quid No excuse to not squish my carbon bars now

Have you seen some of the BOTI entries?

If only there were a place where we could link to things we found funny on the interwebs....

Don't blow it out with an airline, compressed air is often static charged which is the last thing you want near your laptop. Buy a can of compressed air cleaner and blow it through with that

How dusty is the heat sink likely to be? Any build up on there and the fan will hold onto the smell. Try dusting bicarb through the vents with the fan running, leave it to stand for a while and blast / hoover it out. I would strip it to check you get it all out. Working in sewage treatment stuff does get smelly but normally stops fairly quickly when cleaned. Possibly try spraying with ipa whilst stripped?

Fivetens arrived, look to have never been worn on a pedal, soles are completely unmarked! There is a tiny split in the outer toebox reinforcement where the shoe flexes but that's not a major thing. They fit pretty well, possibly a bit snug so no doubling up socks (but merino wool isn't that thick) and the super thick ankle collar pushes my foot forwards so my toes are in the front of the toe box and there's a finger space by my heel; be fine once I've got used to them. For 40 quid I'm not complaining edit: and holy f**k they are sticky, like bluetak

Does the same apply to other 'professionals' that you know like?

Picked up my first pair of 5.10s, very nearly new* freerider contacts for 38 quid. Hopefully they don't come up too small *no obvious pin divots in the sole and uppers look brand new.

Reuben has been selected to be on a feedback panel for lego, test building pre release kits. He gets paid in lego kits and we get paid on amazon vouchers. The eight year old boy has just landed his first job

More likely a kiwi