forteh

Is it linked to equalising the negative air spring? I seem to recall that with the ccdba (same layout) you have to pressurise the shock, slowly compress it to set the negative spring and then adjust the pressure from there. That wouldn't necessarily explain the noise though, is there any discernable physical feedback when the noise occurs? Worthwhile talking to tf tuned to see if they have experienced it.

6 of them altogether although, they were both in the younger age bracket of the group

Home education rocks, today's schooling for Reuben has consisted of quad biking, archery and rifle shooting That is really f**king impressive* for an eight year old He and his mate came 1st and 2nd in the archery competition as well *or scary, delete as appropriate!

Nope Useless f**kwits, I'm not sure why I went there, they had previously refused to quote to change the snapped aux belt on the car because it was too technical for them.... Fortunately the 60 quid the guy charged included a full fill and pressurise I can't find him now, which is a shame because I was going to link @TROYston up as he's local to me. edit: f**k me sidways with a pineapple, I've just looked up how much it is, 416 quid for a 12kg bottle, that's almost 35 grand a tonne

I took mine to ats for a regas last May, all they managed to do is empty it completely and then tell me that it was broken. A bloke in a van from Rugeley came out, vacuum checked the system, inspected and refilled it; absolutely nothing wrong with it and working just fine ever since. OK it cost more (about 60 quid I think) but much better to have someone actually know what they're doing. Would thoroughly recommend him, all manual equipment, no automatic machines, an old school refrigeration engineer who will talk you through exactly what he's doing

Slightly undecided as to where to post this, could go happy thread, bike thread or here! The reverb on the intense had burped some air past the ifp so needed a quick bleed and service. It's not been too long since I replaced all the seals and orings so figured they would be OK. Being almost 6 years old and only having one service in its lifetime the three brass keys have worn a little so the saddle had a little rotational play in it. The top seal head DU bush had failed last time so I replaced it with a solid delrin bush which worked fine but the original wiper seal had become a bit baggy and wasn't keeping the necessary fluids in the right places. You can't buy a replacement wiper seal individually, only by buying a complete new seal head for 35 quid or the complete service kit for 60ish. Likewise you can't buy individual brass keys of the varying sizes (unless you get the full service kit which has a range of sizes). Machined a 2.72mm brass key at work and then fettled the diameter with some emery cloth and my drill to tighten it up a little; ended up at 2.7mm and it's snugged it up nicely. Started hunting for a replacement seal, the shaft is 24.98mm and the seal head is 33.4mm. That equates to a wiper seal with 1" ID and 1 5/16" OD, this conveniently doesn't exist and is a rockshox special. Took a chance on a 25x33 wiper, a touch snug on the shaft and because it's a snap in rather than a push in (soft polyurethane body with no metal reinforcing) it just pulled out of the housing. I glued the f**ker in with loctite retaining compound and its now holding, hopefully it lasts! TL:DR I serviced and repaired my seat post for the grand total of 3.75 rather than the 125+ it you'd have cost to send it to tf tuned or similar

Plusgas To make rust cleaning much simpler you could have used some anopol C, it's phosphoric acid, pretty nasty stuff but would take all that rust off to clean metal in about 30 mins soak.

Could do with a couple of diagonal braces or guyropes on that one, fatty

I shouldn't think so, our bin men don't like it if you leave loose bags of refuse!

That ratio mod only works on the 10 speed dynasys shadow+ mech. Mine is an xt m786 but I think all of the 10 speed shimano use the same ratio so should be able to use an slx, zee, saint or xtr with the same mod. I don't think it matters what range the sram shifter is from as long as it's 9 speed.

Better late than never!

Well considering he's two years younger than the recommended age and 3" shorter inside leg for the frame I don't think it looks to big for him! Stripped it completely yesterday, cleaned the frame up with some cutting compound (it was covered in scratches and scuffs). Soaked the chain in phosphoric acid cleaner to get rid of the surface rust and properly lathered it with oil and hung it up to drip. Cleaned, lubed and setup the brakes and slung it all back together. Fitted the azonic risers that he had on his old bike (4" wider than the stock frog bars) and sent him on his way. Took to it like a duck to water, really comfortable on it and not bothered an ounce by the wheels increasing by 6"! Only down side is that the frame is too narrow to take any of the knobbly tyres I have in stock, but having only paid 90 quid for it it's not the end of the world edit: cleaned up his old bike, put it up for sale this afternoon on the pre-owned frog bikes facebook page and just sold it for 190 quid! So we've upgraded to a newer, bigger, more expensive bike, recouped 90 quid to square it away and we have 100 quid to kit Reuben out with some snowboard gear

Will get one later

Reuben had a frog 55 (20") for Christmas before last, he's grown like a weed and massively outgrown it now; he's riding it ok but really needs a bigger bike. Mrs wife and I were discussing getting a new frog 62 (24"), selling the 55 and only being out of pocket by 150 quid or so. A friend sends us a message today that there's a frog 69 (26") reduced down to 100 quid at Tamworth cash converters, I fly over there after work, haggle them down another tenner and walk out with a new bike. Needs tlc, mostly lube, set up and some knobbly tyres but sound and solid. The bike is intended for 10-12 year olds, with the seat slammed Reuben can get the balls of his feet on the floor. He's eight!

Exhaust is done isn't it? Sure I recall a dirty great bit of stainless pipe shoehorned to the side of the propshaft.

The 5.5evp's natural head angle is 70° with a 130mm fork, coupled with a reasonably high BB and a silly short wheelbase made it a little twitchy so was looking to slacken it out for a bit more stability. Putting the rediculous length fork on the front (the vengeance is some 35mm longer axle to crown than a fox 36) had slackened the head angle loads. The frame is designed for 140mm max, the forks are currently at 160mm which has slackened it out, wheelbase has increased from 1065 to 1085ish and head angle dropped to 67°. Unfortunately the BB was then close to +35mm which is more than the triton Fitted offset bushings to the rear shock, dropped the BB back to a more normal level and the head angle is now down to 65° or there abouts. Still short as f**k but it suits me

Dogface is 1 tomorrow, I got him a bone

It's an indy trainer 20", dunno how well they're rated but was within budget and seems pretty well put together. For a bit of fun learning to balance it should do just fine

It's my birthday on Monday (39 years young!) and mrs wife has got me a unicycle Made me unwrap it today so I can play with it over the weekend. I can sort of balance it for a fraction of a second and then fall over. Time to practise I think

I would just key up the current chrome plate on them all and paint a single colour. Any silver/chrome paint is going to stick out like a sore thumb compared to the remaining chromed items.

I think I may have fallen asleep I'm 39 in 5 days time, I can't remember that far back!

2024?

Mrs wife was looking for a toy for dogface for his first birthday and came across this Maxitid Durable Chew Squeaky Dog Toy Handmade Crocheted for Dogs Toys - 7" Perfect Gift https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0797BVWXG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XEj-AbM5Q167G What. The. Actual. f**k.

That's just how intense used to construct their vpp swingarms, it ties the chainstays and seatstays together to keep the pivots stiff enough; on the newer shorter travel frames they tend to just put a single CS/SS brace on the non drive side (the enduro and downhill frames are braced on both sides).

Almax immobiliser chain if you want to tie it down, expensive but will hold it. What are the repurcussions of trying to drive a car away with the axle tied to the floor?