shovel

nice design but would be better suited for downhill or freeride use as you would just twat that middle bit on hard landings to rocks or edges of walls

god damn, i wish i could go but i'll be working all weekend :sleeping:

the 04' pitbull had a 73mm frame width, not too sure if its the same 05' as for bb width it will prob be 128mm, this is basically to make sure that the crank arms will clear the chain/seat stays and also the cylinders on your magura

yeah those pedals look rather beastly, some shin guards would be a good idea

very corny ben, lol anyway i use 22:19 with 175mm cranks and i think it feels perfect for my bike

if you're running a disk brake then fatty-r's would be a good choice, i've had a set for 4 years and only now they're making very strange noices and showing signs of stress and corrosion

looks like a really good booster, lot of research gone into that bad boy looks pretty awesome too

i just put a new super tacky highroller on the rear the other day as the old one was completely slick after 3 months use, to be honest i'm not really bothered about doing this as i've been really impressed with the tyre, no punctures and unbelievable grip i think you should go with what you know performs well, you might not be impressed with the maxxpro compound if you buy one and end up wasting more money

depends what speed the shifter you have is, if its nine run nine speed, or, if its eight run eight speed

i'm not too sure about this, on one hand yes they're developing their products to try and prolong the life of an isis bb as most ones on the market don't last long especially with the added stress that trials riding puts on it, so maybe for something less extreme like xc riding this bb would be grat for people who don't want to go along the lines of the new raceface and shimano systems but for a trials bike they're just giving you something else to bash off walls/rocks etc and because of the length of the bearing cup it could be used as leverage to ovalise you bb shell if hit hard enough and also with the bearings seated much further apart than normal would it not put extra stress on the centre of the axle which could possibly cause snappage

ok, a new grinding disc is always a good start its not really how much pressure you apply when your grinding, but its the angle you grind at, if you hold the grinder at a steeper angle to the rim then it will grind into the rim more than over it hence giving you a harsh grind be extra carful when applying a harsh grind as its very easy to get carried away and demolish the rim

i'd probably be up for this, like ben@hulltrials said there are some good places to ride up near Aberdeen and we seem to be finding more natural rocky places too which is cool

thanks for the replys, i work as a part time bike mechanic so i'm going to try and face the bb shell today and see how i'll get on, i'll post an update later

got my new isis middleburn pro trials cranks/bashguard today as an upgrade from my square taper raceface turbines the plastic cup on the non-driveside of my bb was really stiff to get out, once i got it out i noticed that there was a flatspot in my bb shell which had come from an impact on the underside of the frame (toxsin #1 by the way) and the plastic cup was cracked because of this my new truvative bb won't go in at all, the flat bit isn't massively big but enough to stop any bb getting in has anyone done this to there bike before, if so do you know if its repairable at all, also would it be covered by warranty at all, i know it probably won't be but what do you guys think, i only got the frame at the start of june any help/advise would be great

besides chiselling out with a screwdriver or any other forms of brute force, you could try sending the wheel back to hope and they should be able to get the bearing out and fit some nice new springs being the helpful people they are

you could try visiting a bike shop with your snapped chain and have them measure how worn the chain is with a chain checker which basically measures how much the chain has stretched if the chain is quite stretched then yeah replace everything, but if the chains only about half worn you should be fine

either a surley cog or a steel king cog then a heap of old cassette spacers will work great, just make sure you take time to get the chainline nice and straight when your putting everything together also unless tartybikes have surley cogs in stock it may take a while to get one as i tried ordering one through my work the other week and they're on back order from the supplier

some people wear gloves some don't, if you buy a decent set of soft rubber/foam grips then they won't hurt your hands but gloves are sometimes pretty good if your on a really long ride to stop your hands getting knackered, so up to you really most people only go for shin guards as any sort of knee armour could restrict the movement in your legs, fox and lizard skin both make very good neroprene material shin guards which are comfy and don't more about your leg too much, or as a cheaper alternative maybe just a set of football shinguards

you could try practicing your technique, i used to have a giant martin hawyes with fatty-r forks, 5mm headset spacer, 100mm 5 degree stem and 2 degree rise pro taper bars and i could bunnyhop about 38 - 40inch over stuff but yeah if you still have trouble then a shorter slightly more high rise stem would help as it will make the front end easier to lift into a manual

grind it, i used to use a hacksaw and go round the rim cutting it like a grinder but obviously not as severe but then i used a grinder the other week and the results are soo much better

i'm not sure of the first question, but if you pedal backwards whilst freewheeling the freewheel will continue to freewheel forwards as the rear wheel is still spinning it and driving it forwards, it won't unscrew if thats what you mean . . .

if your not wanting to spend too much then a second hand magura or a v-brake with a decent set of pads

yeah i think they kind of work like a clutch does on a car with friction, hense the woosh noise you heard, anyway you can't get spares for them anymore and they won't last for trials so when you break it which you probably will, you'll just have to shell out more money for a new wheel

when i went from a giant martin hawyes to a toxsin #1 when cycling along i felt a lot more over the front of the bike and it did feel a bit weird on my hands and back, but after a few rides on it i got used to it as you will probably do too

you say you have a welding torch, you could always try and weld a bar to the freewheel itself and then lever it off with that, would be very tricky though