shovel

use B&Q paint stripper, prob the same as nitromourse, its got a thick gel texture than you can paint onto the rim and it works real quick as the paint bubbles up after a minute or two and then you can powerwash off just be carful when stripping the rim that you don't get anything near your hub :P

that pretty funny, at least you didn't give up on it but yeah el gato's are terrible tyres and you're right running them at 40psi as any lower and they'd pinch all the time :P

saw this over on otn, still not sure about not running at least your hanger on the drive side dropout and maybe a chain tensioner? but yeah it looks pretty pimptastic :P

gt-85 is better than wd40 as it contains teflon so id does actually have some lubricating properties, best thing to do is blast out the cable with gt-85 and then put a few drops of wet xc lube, the type you use on your chain, this helps to lubricate it but is far thinner than grease :)

before you lubed the cable did you give the outer a good blast with gt-85, helps a lot to clean out any crap

with v mounts theres usually a choice of three holes for the spring bit to go in, put it in the next one up and that will give you more tension in the arms and make the brake better

i'm really sure that they don't make a ti rear hub, they only make ti headsets even the headsets are rare though, they only make like 1 or 2 batches of them a year because of the cost of them

yeah you really know that you're low when you can't get into your friends drive cause the underside of the front of the car drags across the chuckies :huh:

i might actually try and get some time off for this one sounded like the last one was good and i missed out

deffinately don't get a shimano, they're crap for trials and will fail over and over. . . . if you don't fancy the price of a king then a hope should be fine as a lot of trials riders use them and the customer service from hope is very good as with any other component on a bike the hub will need to be maintained, regular servicing after every few months if your using the bike a lot, it's not really a hassle as it helps to prolong the life of the hub

yeah if you're wanting practicality don't go for a massive drop i can't take speed bumps, only really if i have to and they're taken on the bite in first, most of the time i take alternate routes plus when you go to the garage they may struggle to get your car on the ramps, mine just makes it, most of the time they're very kind and lay out planks of wood to make the run up less steep

big drops are fun, i've got my mk4 polo with 14*8 wheels 195/45 tyres and they're offset et15, lowered quite a bit with coilovers so i can finely tune the height at the moment the front bumper sits just over 9cm from the ground at the lowest part of it and parts of the car underneath are a bit lower, doesn't rub with me + 3 passengers handlings very good but thats prob because of the suspension as coilovers maintain the whole spring travel also the coilovers have twin rate springs which soak up smaller bumps in road to keep it sort of smooth. . . . . >_< here's a pic to display the lowness

www.coustellier.co.uk, send them an email from their site

yeah its got 1001bhp, the clip that it showed you wasn't a rev counter, it was a power meter and when he floored it you saw the needle go up to 1001bhp, how cool is that >_<

i've made up a six speed cassette with an eight speed road cassette and some extra spacers, seems to be what most people do my mech is locked out but i can still shift between all six gears which is quite handy for commuting between riding spots, my riding gear is 1st and i get a good chainline and the chain is quite short so it doesn't slap around :ermm:

a good nights sleep always helps and eating properly through the day, snacking all day on chocolate and crap like that makes you feel lethargic at night and you can never be bothered once your out but have a days rest between riding if your really feeling sore, i did this during the summer when i felt tired and it really help, started not feeling tired now after riding which is good

i came up with a way of putting on grips so the grips will NEVER slip wrap the end bit of the handlebar where the grip will go with double sided tape peel the papery bit off exposing the tape pour some white spirits on the tape and some in the inside of the grip the grip will slide on very easily and you can position it whatever way leave the bike overnight and the white spirit will evapourate leaving the grips taped to your bars me and ben(ben@hulltrials) have both done this with bontrager foam grips and they just don't slip at all it is safe to do as this is the same method used when putting golf grips on, thats where i got the idea :P

yeah ben those rocks are amazing, i need to get out there again, make use of all these half days at uni

25:11 feels really good, my friend now runs that on his bmx he runs a shaddow conspiracy half link chain, they're very good for getting your chain length perfect

i'd go for the steel one @prawn - hope titanium freehubs aren't that soft, well my cassette digs in alot more now on my stainless king driveshell than it did on my titanium hope freehub :P

one of my friends used a blowtorch on his and then put the pads in a glass of coke supposedly the coke helps to take the glaze off them too? i dunno, but his brake has worked amazing since

for the rear profile and for the front go for that really skinny hope to save some weight, or if you have loads of cash to burn, king bmx on the rear and classic on the front :lol:

3" wide tyres are a bit excessive, 2.5" is more than enough

thats not soo bad, just means you'll have to try a bit harder to stay on your bike, sure you'll have fun :lol:

yeah you would be alot better off helecoiling it, although on something that takes as much stress as a stem, helecoiling is only a short term solution really until you get yourself a new stem