shovel

yes indeed, great fun working there call yourself a sales person ben, well you might sell something now that the internets blocked (Y)

any decent bike shop that stocks marzochi should be able to order a set in for you as long as the supplier has them in stock, once the shop gets them in the shop should be capable of sending the forks out to you to

get a wider rim, less tyre roll, less punctures and bit more stable on the back wheel, also it looks cooler :ermm:

if you run it with some decent pads then you'll still get that on/off feeling towler and as ben said you can always keep a hold of your hope so you can switch it if need be you should try using a magura with the rim you've got on at the moment first though, that would be interesting . . . . . . .

measure the length of the new headtube and then add about 31mm, measure your bike at the moment from the bottom of the crown race of the headset to the top of the spacer you have at the moment under your stem if the first measurement is bigger than the second then prob won't fit

the hope mono trials would be a good choice, i've had a shot on a couple of peoples bikes with one on the front and it feels really good and also has alot of power the good thing about buying any hope products is that you can get soo much spares and very easily too, you can get lever re-build kits, caliper re-build kits, new connectors, diaphrams all the bolts . . . . . . .the list is endless

i've always used skate shoes for riding because they are so comfortable and they give you a suprising amount of ankle support to due to all the padding i like the look of the new nike riding shoes, kinda like dunks but with better soles and they look a little tougher, in need of some new riding shoes so i reckon it'll be the nikes

go with what feels best with regards to which side you hop to, if you prefer to the left then thats fine keep trying that way after watching zoo vid 29 and yours the only thing i can see would be to tuck back more over your rear tyre and then when you take off really spring up and then try and scoop the bike underneath you to clear it but looking good so far (Y)

just be patient and order the 36 rim, running it with 32 will void your warranty, put unwanted strain on the hub and you'll feel like a tool when it gets damaged

you should look into the warranty for easton bars as i'm pretty sure the ea70's have a pretty good warranty on them as easton claim them to be the strongest aluminium bars out there

yeah straightening it out would be alot cheaper than ordering a new one, although if it is really bent straightening will weaken it just remember to give the disc a good clean when you finished with it, whilst the wheels out you could always give the pads a quick clean with some sandpaper just incase they got greasy before

posting in the wrong section AND not using a helmet, tut tut . . . . .

yeah you'll still need something there to hold the tension in your chain, the fresh products chain tensioner seems to be the most "out of the way" one out at the moment which will decrease the chance of hanger snappage and they look pretty fly too

riding was amazing, so big but so precise with almost every move, well done

i upgraded from a square taper bottom bracket and cranks to an isis bottom bracket and cranks set up not long ago and you do notice quite a difference, the whole bottom bracket area of the bike feels alot stiffer and more solid, so yeah this would be a great opportunity to upgrade :ermm:

just built the wheel 3 cross like you would normally do but try and build the wheel quite tight and make sure the wheel is dished correctly (centered) and you'll be fine, once its built just make sure you keep an eye on the spoke tension to make sure they stay tight

firstly make sure that when you tighten the qr you have one hand pushing down on the frame to hold the dropouts in place, if when you pedal back it is stiff and the chain kina sucks down above the chainstay then its the freehub, you say the rear hub is new? all hope hub come with a really thick grease which causes this when new, to get rid of this stickyness go out for long rides not doing trials but more sort of xc with alot of freewheeling this gives the grease a chance to loosen off and for the freehub to wear in a bit

one of my friends got that sort of finish on his old forks by using a wire brush drill piece on a dril and lightly going over the forks, came out really well as i have a toxsin frame in brushed/raw finish and the finish was almost identical

i haven't actually rode one myself, but by looking at pictures of the frame it looks like a very solid bike that would take alot of abuse, you also have the choice of short or long which is a bonus but most of all its looks very shiny :blink:

got to agree with ben here that a locked out mech is the best idea, i use a locked out mech with 6 gears and it works perfectly and soo smooth so i reckon it would be as good with only the one gear

just write up a list of all the parts that were on the bike and then browse through the internet to get the corrasponding retail prices for them, do you not have any pictures of the bike from before it was stolen so they can see that the parts were actually on it? or if a local bike shop did a lot of work on the bike you could get them to confirm that the bike did actually have the parts listed on it

you could try and make one yourself out of metal, then polish it up and make it look all blingy, that would look pretty pimp

i'm still using all the original levers and blade etc from my 99' maguras, they've got more of a squarer profile to them than the newer cnc lever blades but i find them really comfy and good to use

wipperman make very good chains such as there titanium mtb chain that costs about 200 quid so i reckon that there links etc are of good quality ever on more budget items so you might have just been unlucky with that other half link you bought, so yeah for all of £3 you could try again as for the hanger i don't really know

you say its just too long with the wheel fully forwards right, just pull the wheel back and run it like that until the chain stretches and then take a link out and put the wheel all the way forward again