Dekes

actually cromoly won't rust either as it contains chrome but stainless steel remains shinier whereas cromoly has a visible oxide layer.

So I bougth a new frame and brought it to the bikeshop today to get the headtube reamed and faced and the BB shell faced and tapped. I already bought a cane creek tank jump headset and am looking into buying an SKF bb because both these headset and BB have cromoly cups which I prefer. The SKF BFR600 is twice the price of the 300 because it's made out of stainless steel whereas the 300 is made out of cromoly steel, bearings are claimed to be the same on both versions. Is there a reason to pick stainless steel over cromoly steel? Or any other reason to pick the 600 over the 300? Can I put my older try all ISIS cranks on a new BB? I assume yes since the cranks are made from aluminum and the bb spindle is made from steel. Also at eyesight the ISIS interface on the crank and on my old BB don't seem to have a lot of wear on them. Thanks.

If there's no play on the axle, keep the SKF and face your BB shell, maybe go through the threads with a tap. Did you put locktite on the threads before installing? Locktite does a rather good job at stopping creaking and ratteling.

What about the SKF BFR 300 for 43£ on tarty ? Sounds amazing to me.

they are actually slightly lighter than 2.5 mobsters/highrollers which everyone uses.

Yeah that was really crap riding

that echo rim seems to be a rear version as it's rather wide and double wall.

if you integrate the power curve of both the enzo and the GTR, the GTR has produced more Work though less energy.

why not just email cannondale europe themselves?

Cannondale uses a weird non-metric pitch for their brake bosses. I bought a fatty R myself 2nd hand and it didn't have brake bosses, so i email cannondale europe in holland about it and they sent me free brake bosses. I suggest you to find out who distributes Cannondale in the UK (most likely cannondale europe) and send them an e-mail. They should be really cool about it and just send out free bosses. DO NOT try to screw in other brake mounts with a different pitch, as the brakes pull on that thread so you could end up with pull out brake mounts.

I think my next headset will be this one, steel cups, non-sealed bearings and pretty cheap. The steel cups will be good for taking them out and putting them in if you change frame a lot. http://www.canecreek.com/s-1-headset.html

Are the hope pro2 QR axles also threaded on the inside to put in M5 bolts? Such as DMR or VIZ hubs for example.

My idea was to go to the hardware store and look at different length M10 bolts and see which one has a shank of about 7-10 mm and then saw off the excess, so i have like a 30mm bolt with 7-10mm shank. Though the original bolt may be like 200mm long. They usually don't tap the thread all the way through on longer bolts. After a certain length has been reached, the threaded parts of all further bolts will remain the same, whether you have a 300 or 500 mm bolt.

hmm, I think I'll buy a hope then after all. Does anyone know whether the thread inside the axle for the bolts to go in starts right of the edge or a couple of mm inside? I was thinking of then immediately replacing the hope bolts with other stainless steel M10 bolts with smooth surface near the head of the bolt. This way i don't get ugly thread marks inside my frame dropouts.

I'm going to build a new wheel, and i was thinking of using a shimano saint hub, it's stronger than a hope pro2 and way cheaper than a CK hub. Has anyone ever tried this before? It has 36 eng points which will give me 41.7 eng points at the cranks. I don't care that much about weight cause i'm 105 kg myself.

38-15

This has happend to me too, but i just agree with them people, get of whatever they want me to go off, then go back riding it when they go back inside. It's a good system.

using a blow torch will weaken it and it will break. Just bend it back cold.

for me, vees are the best brakes out there. Better than HS33.

Use the search, grind is better, always. Only use tar when you need to ride and have no more time for a grind and stay out of the wet with it. [/thread]

more chainwrap would be nicer, make the tensioner tension upwards.

I have the rohloff but it doesn't fit cause my chainline is too little. It needs like at least 54mm. And it doesn't take 1/8" chains too well, let alone a 1/8" chaine with kmc quicklink which sticks out another 1 or so mm. It must tension well though. I took it apart to grease all the bolts since i'm so anal about my bike components and i had a lot of trouble bolting it back together under the tension of the spring.

20 quid? smells like nicked.

It's just that I'm thinking of getting the same, or the surly singleator because it can push upwards and can neutralise chainstretch a bit. And the roller can take a KMC powerlink whereas a derailer can't.

how do you like that DMR tensioner?