Greetings

It was Julien Meunier, he must have been fine as he's been in many vids since. And you'll find that stack in a vid called JIB by Thor Wixom

I seriously wonder where your limits are, you've got to stop going bigger one day?

Well, I was using a KHE chain for well over 2 years, then just replaced it with a new one as it stretched too much. Bloody amazing chain, didn't snap once. Other parts include Counstsinks which seem to have no wear after about 10 months of use even though they are run on a harsh grind; Onza 18T chainring which I've had for 2 years and has no wear at all and Tensile cranks which are 1,5 years old and the spline is still in perfect condition. Before I got these specific parts, they all had to be replaced at least twice a year (well, apart from the chainring).

But what if the first two threads are in fact cross threaded? It will go in easily up to a point and then just stop. Do what Shaun wrote, messing with BB threads isn't really a good idea. Better safe than sorry

Fingers: alex Eyes shut: alex Nose: aloex Chin: azlkerx Elbows: alex Knuckles: alex Palm: aloex Tongue: not on this keyboard!

It's not the same frame Joe, have a close look

70-72kgs on average about 180cm

Alright then. I have basically finished what you can call the first attempt. I now know what the problems with this setup are (frankly speaking I was expecting them). So yes, I have ridden it, just a few sidehops and things that are not heavy on the drivetrain. The main problem is the stiffness of the setup. There are lots of washers, this thick adaptor which all add up to 20mm (the hub I'm running is 115mm). I wasn't expecting it to work perfectly first time but the hub will definitely need a serious modification. Basically I will need to make a really massive rear 135mm axle with Profile-sized funbolts. And to get that in, I'll need to change the bearings as the inner diameter is too small for a thicker than 10mm axle. This is all because when I press the cranks, the wheel shifts to the left causing immense drag on the brake. It's a bit difficult to sum up how this rides as I've only been on it for 15 minutes. The position is exactly the same as previously on 26", it also feels really long and close to a stock. For me that's perfect since I'm not a fan of mods anymore. The bike is quite strange on the rear wheel, a bit like a pogo-stick. It's also too long - not in terms of cockpit room but for instance when you do a pigeon or something (please let's not argue about what it's called ), you expect the rear wheel to land on the object but it's just not there. Meh, maybe I'm just not used to it, after all the Python has longer chainstays. Here's a pic of it built up, worked my way up to 6 pallets but it's quite difficult to do anything when you know the brake will lock up when you kick the pedal. Going back to 26" wheels now, got the 1st round of nationals this weekend. I think it's a matter of 2 weeks and the 20" will be in full working order again, but with a really stiff wheel/brake setup.

Current progress: Rear wheel built Adaptor mounted onto the frame Hub spacing problem solved Chain line problem solved Still to do: Remove chainring off crank and replace with ACS (temporary, I hope it can be easily removed as i've got nationals this weekend) Bleed front brake Set the chain up Mount front brake Check everything Mount rear brake Then it's just a matter of cutting the adaptor down to a small size, doing some cosmetics and painting it black.

Let the battle begin! Expect to see some results in the next few hours Unless I'll find an easy way of removing an ACS freewheel, I won't be riding it yet.

Nice video! Difficult to säy if you suit mod or stock better, you remind me of Felix on the Toxsin.

Talk to Oakley, he had it done to his

I'm still amazed at the progress you make each week . You're going to be a f**king incredible rider one day if you carry on like this, you've already got a beasty style and that's just the beginning. Btw, found that music I asked you about, no need for you to look for it

I wonder how much torque and horsepower he has

I did, worked fine. It's just that the disc mount is too close to the frame. If you're using a 110mm frame you'll need to machine down the hub or if you don't want to do that to such expensive equipment, bodge an adaptor. If you've got a 116mm frame then you just need to put both chain tugs on the non-drive side.

This is actually what Deng told our Echo dealer. Do you think Deng has no idea about the technology he uses?

Firstly you would need two drive side cranks = expensive. Secondly this would only work on urban and be beneficial only to new riders who find it too difficult to balance on one rockring. I mean the whole idea of a bashring is to protect the chainring and chain, what's the point of having a bashring that doesn't protect anything? A bashplate protects the frame and chainring and is fairly steady if you land on it.

I wonder if the 2009 Pr's will adopt this shape.

Not exactly a supercharger, but search youtube for a lawnmower with nitrous.

Whos that guy in glasses? Oh well, that was fun

Getting most of my parts tomorrow - spokes to build up my wheel, screw on sprocket, a freewheel and brake pads. Got an exam on Tuesday so I'll build it up after that, just need an ISIS bb now

Probably because that's what I've been doing for almost a third of my life. It's fun, it wastes energy, it keeps you in touch with nice people and it really seems to impress the ladies. I think it's just a kind of lifestyle, an addiction of some sort

Corruption kills football...

They say in the description that the wheels are 32 hole so it's just the picture that's funny. A 32h will be more than strong enough for what that bike is designed for.