trialmil Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 well, that.thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Dark Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 dengura with hope brass bushing - looks okay i guess, if it holds a waterbleed, under cuts a maggie then its all good dengura with hope brass bushing - looks okay i guess, if it holds a waterbleed, under cuts a maggie then its all good cranks look like the old zoo cranks....look okay i guess, but how much can you tell from a cad drawing...Frame looks pretty nice...dropouts are abit long though, and it could do with a brake booster, not so sure about the seat tube guset, the bb shell hole is a good idea...kinda zenith'esque Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psycholist Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 Very nice CAD work - Solidworks or ProDesktop? Are you planning on making these?If so the toptube-downtube junction on the frame may be troublesome to make.The hole in the lever housing for the lever pivot looks a little close to the edge of the housing given people will be swinging off it for its working life - I'd be tempted to replace it with a hollow big diameter pin to reduce the bearing pressure between the pivot pin and the housing too, especially if its aluminium. Is there reach adjustment for the lever and how will it work? I'd put more of a hook for your finger in the lever blade unless the lever pivot sits it pretty near the bars anyway. Are you doing any finite element modeling on the parts? The cross sections in the handlebar clamp look very small and might need bulking up. The handlebar clamp bolt on the underside may interfere with the lever piston too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialmil Posted December 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 I didn't really understand the modifications you are tempted to do in the lever....I'm making stress analysis... I will test it better, to know well....and, yes... I'm planning to do them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psycholist Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 Most levers that use a small diameter pin for the pivot get rattly quite quickly, especially when the material supporting the pin is aluminium. A big diameter pin will put less pressure on the material supporting it, so the hole in the lever housing for the pivot pin will stay the right size for longer and the peak stress in the lever housing should be reduced also.The band holding the lever onto the handlebar looks very thin compared to most production brake levers, so it'll probably need to be made thicker to avoid it cracking - I'd round the square corners on the slot in the lever clamp too as they'll act as start points for fatigue cracks if there are sharp corners.If there's a bolt under the lever to clamp the band onto the handlebars then it looks like it'll have to pass through the piston in the lever based on the position of the protrusions for the brake line and (I'm assuming) bleed screw on the other side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextheferret Posted December 20, 2008 Report Share Posted December 20, 2008 I really like the cranks, I like the frame aswell, but I woud defo buy those cranks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mtchell Posted December 20, 2008 Report Share Posted December 20, 2008 This is slightly off topic and may sound like a silly questionBut can some one explain what a drop out is ?, Because I,m forever hearing the term but have no idea what it means . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted December 20, 2008 Report Share Posted December 20, 2008 This is slightly off topic and may sound like a silly questionBut can some one explain what a drop out is ?, Because I,m forever hearing the term but have no idea what it means . Where the wheel goes into The little cut-outs at the back of the frame, which you slide your hub axle into. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mtchell Posted December 20, 2008 Report Share Posted December 20, 2008 Cheers skoze Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogre Posted December 20, 2008 Report Share Posted December 20, 2008 disk mount, inbetween the chainstay and the seatstay, they look fit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben John-Hynes Posted December 21, 2008 Report Share Posted December 21, 2008 Upside down magura mounts... No thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat hudson Posted December 22, 2008 Report Share Posted December 22, 2008 yea, it does look good but having your maggie mounts shit themselves out of the frame would be pretty shitty/fukin hurt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialmil Posted December 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2008 yea, it does look good but having your maggie mounts shit themselves out of the frame would be pretty shitty/fukin hurt.When I put them upside down, I was thinking that riding trials you, usually, us the wheel backwards... I mean, you climb something, and your brakes are "shit themselves out of the frame".Danny Comas told me you should put your rear MTB tires backwards when using them to trials, I thought it made sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan6061 Posted December 22, 2008 Report Share Posted December 22, 2008 It'd be harder to set up though, plus I've never had a problem with my brake sitting on top!It could make braking worse too, seeing as the force is going away from the tube, not into it? Although it's sat in the triangle... hmm... It'll pull the pads away instead of pushing them into the brake though, which could effect it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shamus Posted December 22, 2008 Report Share Posted December 22, 2008 Not going to make any comments on the effectiveness/weaknesses of the brake being under the seatstays but it will look CLEAN AS HELL, imagine a smooth, un-interrupted line from dropout to headtube!i reckon it'll look sick. good effort for thinking outside the box!and if there are never issues with the brake sitting on top then would there be any issues with it sitting below? well there is only one way to find out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sidehop Stuart Posted December 22, 2008 Report Share Posted December 22, 2008 Upside down magura mounts... No thanks.+1 maybe a little difficult to set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Chinnery Posted December 22, 2008 Report Share Posted December 22, 2008 Upside down magura mounts... No thanks.+1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben John-Hynes Posted December 23, 2008 Report Share Posted December 23, 2008 I was thinking that riding trials you, usually, us the wheel backwardsExplain that to me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialmil Posted December 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2008 Explain that to me...As you can see, in all those well known moves the wheel is pulling the brake out of the frame, and not pushing it into the chainstays....well done gaps are thought to fall using the wheel the same way (usually we fall in the border). Drops and other moves don't really use the brake too much.I think that if the rider mostly goes up (sidehops to rear wheel, tapping, bunnyhop, etc) he makes his rear wheel to pull the break out. If the rider dedicate his time to make huge gaps and doesn't fall in the border, and making very big drop gaps, he might be pushing the brake into the frame.BY THE WAY, THE PROBLEM ABOUT THE DIFFICULTIES TO SET UP THE BRAKE ARE SOLVED. THANKS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sidehop Stuart Posted December 23, 2008 Report Share Posted December 23, 2008 BY THE WAY, THE PROBLEM ABOUT THE DIFFICULTIES TO SET UP THE BRAKE ARE SOLVED. THANKSHow are they solved? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walleee Posted December 23, 2008 Report Share Posted December 23, 2008 if your actually making them cranks get in touch with me, I did a similar project not so long ago and could give you some ideas for a fixture for machining.youll need to make midifications to allow a crank puller in there is the first thing i noticed scanning over it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted December 23, 2008 Report Share Posted December 23, 2008 Pic.If you've got a maggy in there with a booster, surely theres a chance of it rubbing the chain? And it would be a b*****d to set up?I've never heard of anyone having issues with the brake pulling away from the frame, if you ask me it just makes things overly complicated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialmil Posted December 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2008 if your actually making them cranks get in touch with me, I did a similar project not so long ago and could give you some ideas for a fixture for machining.youll need to make midifications to allow a crank puller in there is the first thing i noticed scanning over it.how can I get in touch with you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim/Trialsin USA Posted December 24, 2008 Report Share Posted December 24, 2008 The side in which you place the brakes should hardly make a difference. Unlike other cycling disciplines, the brake needs to function in both directions in trials. The only trick might be clearance for a booster. I know the world has gone weight weenie....but boosters do make a difference.Only one comment on the cranks. Please suck up the extra cost and make them out of 7075. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonMack Posted December 24, 2008 Report Share Posted December 24, 2008 (edited) It really isn't that hard to set up a brake with them on the bottom of the seatstays. There's some other cycling type sport I have stuck in my head which uses inverted SS mounted brakes, but I can't quite put my finger on it Oh yeah...I assume you all find it impossible to turn your bikes upside down to set the brake up? and didn't one of the first DOB frames have inverted SS brake mounts too?Thought so... Edited December 24, 2008 by JonMack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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