Smifee Posted January 8, 2011 Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 First of all... I'm a bit of a tart when it comes to my bikes and stuff and have ordered some new bits without thinking first.. Got a new seat comin but as the origanal mini seat has a rivited seat post gonna need a new post.. Measuring the origanal one gives me 23.8 however the only ones i can find are 25.4.. Anyone else tried to change the seat on one ??? Can it be done by just buyin a seat post?? Have i got to fabricate something to fit?? 2ndly.... I'm new to trials and have been practising tricks outa Martyn Ashton's Tricks and techniques... But when i try wheel hops he says to pull a wheelie and stop it flippin with the brake but mine just let me slip straight off the back... I don't really wanna grind the rims are there any pads or tips to gettin the brakes workin better on a standard rim ??? Cheers Smifee... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted January 8, 2011 Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 You do want to grind the rims. It's pretty much standard for any good trials bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crashbanggg Posted January 8, 2011 Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 I found this video really useful when learning to hop, the second method was my favourite / easiest for me if that helps? I found the wheelie method difficult Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smifee Posted January 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 sound cheers guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Gibbs Posted January 8, 2011 Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 i thought you were gunna buy some Tnn LGMs from what you were saying in NMC? They will help significantly though or some heatsink yellow or snowies. With regards to the seatpost i think custom is the only option, most trials frames ie, rockman,inspired, because, ashton ect, have adopted the 27.7mm post and 31.8 clamp combo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Vandart Posted January 8, 2011 Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 You can sometimes find the seat post size on ebay, among retro road stuff but they are like rocking horse shit and thus well expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smifee Posted January 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 Just brought some second hand pads but didn't wanna fork out £30 on pads till i could actually do any tricks didn't realise the brakes were so critical.... Will look into modding the mini seat post for now then just waitin for my seat to come now then... Cheers Guys.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikeperson45 Posted January 8, 2011 Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 Are you using vee brakes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smifee Posted January 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 Yes Mate standard onza ones at the minute.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Vandart Posted January 10, 2011 Report Share Posted January 10, 2011 The calipers themselves are pretty good you know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smifee Posted January 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2011 Sound i got some avid speed 7 levers and some tnn's for the back comin and some boosters hopefully that should sort em out.. Think my main problem is i try to 1 finger brake so i can pull the bars harder can't get used to 2 finger brakin and hoppin or wheelie in ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onza1 Posted January 10, 2011 Report Share Posted January 10, 2011 It takes time fella good things come to those who wait Good luck with the riding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Gibbs Posted January 10, 2011 Report Share Posted January 10, 2011 (edited) With the extra power from the brake pads 1 finger braking will be easier. I found a decent cable helps a bit too. I ran oddessy linear slick cables and gluged quite abit of 3in1 oil down inside the outer housing then slip the inner cable in, it makes them nice and light to pull and with a nice lever they were fantastic. But if your not wanting to spend more out on cables it will work with what you have Just as well. Edited January 10, 2011 by bender b rodreguez Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smifee Posted January 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2011 Cool just need someone to show me how to ride it now!! lol bin doin what it says in martyn ashtons book and the video on youtube so guess i'll pick it up soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onza1 Posted January 10, 2011 Report Share Posted January 10, 2011 Oh it'll take a while I only ride occasionally but bin 12 months and can only back hop and little spins need help on jumping high, pedal kicks and sidehops then I'll be happy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Alty Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 (edited) Brakes are fairly crucial in my opinion, those pads + booster should help no end. Also i would definitely recommend grinding the rims. Those pads are designed for ground rims, as nearly everyone does it nowadays. Its not really expensive to get done, or you can do it yourself, but maybe if you only have 1 rim best get someone to do it incase you mess it up lol . Ground rims compared to polished is like riding on concrete compared to ice, i know which i would get more grip on . Edited January 12, 2011 by Jon Alty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC12345678910 Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 (edited) And what happens when the grind goes dead? IMO you're just opening up a never ending stream of problems; Grind goes dead - re-grind - rim flat spots because you've ground a rim that ain't suppost to be ground - brake goes crap because of all the flats - Change rim to rid the flats (incuring a cost) - Get wheel built by LBS which incurrs another cost (I'm assuming he can't build wheels by himself or doesn't know some-one who can) - re-grind - repeat cycle. The TNN's will work fine regardless smooth or ground. I was under the impression that on a v-brake it is all about the lever/cable/arms combo anyway. Edited January 13, 2011 by CC12345678910 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshtp Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 And what happens when the grind goes dead? IMO you're just opening up a never ending stream of problems; Grind goes dead - re-grind - rim flat spots because you've ground a rim that ain't suppost to be ground - brake goes crap because of all the flats - Change rim to rid the flats (incuring a cost) - Get wheel built by LBS which incurrs another cost (I'm assuming he can't build wheels by himself or doesn't know some-one who can) - re-grind - repeat cycle. The TNN's will work fine regardless smooth or ground. I was under the impression that on a v-brake it is all about the lever/cable/arms combo anyway. I'm sorry, but I cant agree, Grinding your rims is fairly standard practice, A good grind will last a long time, and a rim can be ground many, many times if done right... the best thing I heard is that your not removing any surface, just conditioning the surface. Grind *** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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