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New Frame Debate


Zetec S

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At the moment I have a fully function T-pro frame (would like to see if it will last 10 years of on-off use but who knows!)

recently found myself wanting zoo or echo frame, preferably a zoo I guess.

However I have no real reason for the upgrade, I'm not tooooo bothered about the weight of the bike at this moment, I think the frame geo is fine, I'm just craving new frame really.

T-pro does take a cosmetic bashing on a regular basis on ledges I think it's fair to say, so that is the only plus side on keeping the current frame, not too bothered if the 'pro does take a hit, and I will be roughly, £300 with Headset, more in my favour if I do stick with the onza.

Not sure weather I'm just being tight or what.

Will I notice any difference in frame upgrade apart from weight? I've only ever had the 'pro for trials.

I'd probably go for long - 1025mm base, where as t-pro is 1005mm I think so I'd lose out on manual blunts but hopefully make up for it in gaps?

Quite stuck on this one... Any more pro's and con's to consider?

your thoughts please.

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if your thinking about buying a zoo frame. go for the older frames pre 2008 as dengs (the person who designs them) designs have become very unreliable. at the moment ive got a zoo lynx frame and withing 6 months it had cracked.with reference to the weight, you definitely feel the difference. i had a onza blade 09 before the zoo and immediately when i got on the zoo you could feel the difference. the bike felt alot more stable and easier to handle on the back wheel. every manoeuvre i did with it seemed 10 times easier.

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if your thinking about buying a zoo frame. go for the older frames pre 2008 as dengs (the person who designs them) designs have become very unreliable. at the moment ive got a zoo lynx frame and withing 6 months it had cracked.with reference to the weight, you definitely feel the difference. i had a onza blade 09 before the zoo and immediately when i got on the zoo you could feel the difference. the bike felt alot more stable and easier to handle on the back wheel. every manoeuvre i did with it seemed 10 times easier.

Just because you have had a bad experience with a Zoo! frame, doesn't make Deng unreliable.

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i have also found that most of the Echo/Zoo things i have do snapp or crack quite easiley. Though i have noticed that Onza things expecially the beginner series are worse for it. to be honest mate you could have a zoo and it could last you for ever and you could spend a fortune on a Koxx and that could snapp straight away is a gamble you cant be worried about the bike you ride or you will never really try to push yourself . One thing i have learnt about trials over the last couple of years is everything is desposable.

the longer bike doesnt make your gaps bigger i went from 1065 Bow to 1025 Curve and i can gap further and jump higher on the smaller frame despite me being 6"5

you will probabley find if you ride the onza for a few more months it will crack and that is when i'd buy a new one just keep the money to a side.

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. at the moment ive got a zoo lynx frame and withing 6 months it had cracked.. i had a onza blade 09 before the zoo and immediately when i got on the zoo you could feel the difference. the bike felt alot more stable and easier to handle on the back wheel.

There is a pay off for being light weight, shit does't last as long. If you want it to last for years either don't be a basher or accept there is a weight penalty.

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That. If your frame cracked after 6 months, you've got only yourself to blame.

nothing wrong with me riding, i know a couple of people who have cracked them in the same place. where the top tube meets the bottom trianlge. got it welded and its stayed strong.

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Birthday is coming up soonish so might go for the lynx or the 08 gu mod frame in black.

Tempted to get a full second hand bike though as my retroish 33's aren't feeling all to good at the mo, but working ok as they should but just getting fed up with adjusting the rear one every 2 weeks and rear hub cones playing up when riding.

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Will I notice any difference in frame upgrade apart from weight?

T-pro frames are actually very light frames, its the rest of the bike (on a standard build) that makes it heavy.

If I were you I wouldn't upgrade the frame untill it breaks. Fair enough if you feel cramped on your T-pro, then you should go for something longer - or just get a longer stem.

I'm pressuming your bike is still a fairly standard spec? If it's not then don't pay any attention to what I've written below, if it is however then I think your money would be much better spent if you upgraded your wheels, brakes, forks, bar and stem.

  • Replace both of your open bearing hubs (with cones) for sealed bearing hubs.
  • It'd be a good idea to upgrade your rims too if you replacing the hubs, if your quite a light rider then a pair of 'single walled' rims can save you some weight.
  • Get a pair of alloy forks as they can be around half the weight of your standard steel forks.
  • Again your bar & stem combo massively out weigh an aluminium bar and stem. A pair of 'riser' bars would also be alot comfier compared to the standard steel 'flat' bars.
  • If you still have standard Magura brake pads then you have to get a decent pair of pads (Rockpads, Phatpads, Heatsinkpads, TNNpads, Koxx Bloxx..) for both the front & rear (especially for the rear).
  • Grind your rims (if you get some of the pads I recomended above) - lightly on the front, deeper and shaper on the rear.
  • Fit a 2-bolt booster on the rear, as I always found T-pro's rather flexy.

Purchasing those components would make a huge difference to the way your bike rides. An Onza T-pro frame with the above components would make a much better bike than a Zoo Python frame with standard steel components..

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T-pro frames are actually very light frames, its the rest of the bike (on a standard build) that makes it heavy.

If I were you I wouldn't upgrade the frame untill it breaks. Fair enough if you feel cramped on your T-pro, then you should go for something longer - or just get a longer stem.

Not really looking to upgrade the components otherwise I really will be spending over £1000 on bits and bobs, when I've just spent 1500 on MTB :P but your plan makes sense considering the Lynx frame and T-Pro frame are both made out of 6061 ally.

I've got bars but just can't find an undersized stem anymore. I've also got cranks and isis, but to be honest the alloy onza cranks don't weigh alot anyway.

Pads are not the crappy black magura ones, they are the orange/black ones, pretty good pads I think.

Both rims grinded, have a cheap outland booster but adjusted the brake a while back and can't get the booster back on. Lord only knows how I got it on there all those years ago (Booster was intended for a Vee Brake)

Couldn't agree more on the sealed hubs, looking for a rear bmx profile hub but really am waiting for a second hand one to come along, and will also be upgrading to Try-All rim.

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Not really looking to upgrade the components otherwise I really will be spending over £1000 on bits and bobs

Eh? How'd you work that one out?

If you buy second hand you could pick up most of the parts on here for a fraction of there RRP. By my calculations you could get all of the components neccesary to improve your T-pro for less than £200.

I've seen countless pairs of Echo Lite forks being sold on here for under £40, and decent front wheels go for less than £40 too. You can pick up good spec'd rear wheels for around £60 (with afixed hub, obviously a Profile is going to bump the price up a fair bit). All sorts of stems and bars are sold at around £20 each. And pads with CNC'd backings you can find for around £10.

..and if you not bothered by dents and scratches here and there I'm sure you can find cheaper asking prices again. :)

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Eh? How'd you work that one out?

If you buy second hand you could pick up most of the parts on here for a fraction of there RRP. By my calculations you could get all of the components neccesary to improve your T-pro for less than £200.

I've seen countless pairs of Echo Lite forks being sold on here for under £40, and decent front wheels go for less than £40 too. You can pick up good spec'd rear wheels for around £60 (with afixed hub, obviously a Profile is going to bump the price up a fair bit). All sorts of stems and bars are sold at around £20 each. And pads with CNC'd backings you can find for around £10.

..and if you not bothered by dents and scratches here and there I'm sure you can find cheaper asking prices again. :)

was just looking at the Zoo complete on tarty, think it's about £1150 meaning £900 odd on components at RRP.

well if you can find a original try all stem (25.4/undersized) I will be intrested :)

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