Damian Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 First of all hi to everyone here, I'm new to the site and new to trials! I got my first trials bike yesterday (a Phase 1.1), and love it! The only thing that's bothering me is that the drivetrain takes ages to engage. I gather this is down to the crappy hub. I've got a hope hub on my Chameleon that I was thinking of using with the Alex rim that came with the bike. Is it difficult to build a wheel? Or would I be better off getting a bike shop to do it, or even just buying a new wheel (I don't know if the Alex rim is any good). Also, I'm thinking about going singlespeed at some point. What's the best gearing to use/ what gearing do you lot use? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BurlyBox Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 well to be safe its best to go to a bike shop but if you are experienced with bikes here's a link that tells you how to build a wheel. it will make it cheaper if you do it yourself but youve gotta worry about spoke tension and all that shizz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockman Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 Gearing = 22:18 or 18:15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BurlyBox Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 I'm going for a 22:18 ratio for my 1.2 and bought my tensioner and singlespeed kit earlier today. i reccomend getting this because its the cheapest you will find andyou get a good choice of size sprockets. as for tensioners if i were you i would go for the tensile or 4-jeri tensioner as they were reccommended to me but both are out of stock on tartybikes and you will be waiting a long time for them to get back in stock but you can get the tensile tensioner from rocknroll bikes for a little less than tarybikes and its free postage within the UK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damian Posted July 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 Cheers for that. Think I might get someone to build the wheel for me. Seems a faily straight forward job, just dont think ive got the patience for it! Gunna go for the 22:18 ratio because I'm pretty sure the stock chain ring has 22t. Checking out rock n roll bikes now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete.M Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 (edited) Not sure if I should ask this here but i'll go ahead. I am a bit surprised at the 22T:18T gearing that you guys suggest. I still have gears (not for long) on my MAD phase and tend to use the 15T sprocket for everything. Can anyone give me the reasons for using an 18T sprocket? Edit: Is it also generally best to go for the longer option on sprung tensioners? Edited July 8, 2011 by Pete.M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damian Posted July 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 I was using the 15t a lot too, but I find it easier to lift the front wheel without moving forward with the 18t so I tend to stick to that now. I read somewhere that short tensioners were better because they're lighter and smaller so you're less likely to catch them. Can anyone tell us if thats true? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 A short tensioner won't work with an 18t rear sprocket as you won't be able to pull it up tight enough to the chainstay. And the reason you want to run 18 rear with a 22 front sprocket is that gives you the same ratio as running a 18t FFW with 15t rear sprocket which is generally the norm for trials riders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSnowden Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 Hi, can anyone tell me what the difference is between and 'grinded' and a 'non-grinded' rim? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewEH1 Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 (edited) This is what a grinded rim looks like as opposed to a smooth non-grinded rim: People usually grind their rims to give better brake performance in wet/muddy conditions, or to give an excellent bite in the dry. But it's all personal preference. Edit: Here's a video: Rim Grinding Edited July 13, 2011 by AndrewEH1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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