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Pure, New Zealand


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The 2011 Echo frames got into the country the other week so i went to the the importers place to have a look and discovered the new mk2 echo frames, sadly only one was brought into the country and it was allocated to my mate matt.

So i decided to go about lightening a mk1 pure frame, so far ive got it down to 1460g from 1520g so thats not a bad effort. i think i should be able to get it to 1400-1420 without too much effort.

Maybe if i get bored with it ill try a carbon top tube but its light enough for now.

Anyway here's some photos

DSC03724.jpg

DSC03727.jpg

Yes ive copied Adam with two ti and two alu stem bolts. I have in the past run all alu bolt in my stem, however when I went to adjust the bar angle one of the bolts snapped.

DSC03725.jpg

Opened up the holes in the pedals from 5mm to 9mm, I'm yet to see a broken cage on these pedals.

DSC03728.jpg

Cat came out for a look see.

DSC03713.jpg

Installed Ti BB, did some drilling of the BB shell (holes may get enlarged at some point)

DSC03714.jpg

The photos make this seem much rougher than it is in real life and yes i am well aware that the BB shell will fill with mud etc, with such a large hole in the rear of it, it should be easy to clean out. Plus the holes in the bottom will allow for the drainage of trapped materials.

DSC03715.jpg

Few grams saved here, removed the end of the top tube and opened up the hole where the seat tube joins the top tube

DSC03723.jpg

Hadn't quite finished grinding here but our old compressor overheated and i was busting for a ride on it,

I've opened up the hole in the front an additional 6mm from each edge and was attempting to open up the holes inside the steerer tube where the top and bottom tubes meet when the compressor died.

DSC03722.jpg

Yes i know completely pointless drilling but... why not

Spec for bike is as follows with approximate weights for individual components, Note that some parts have been weighed by myself at home and others such as wheel components are shown with the claimed manufacturer or tarty weights.

Frame: Echo Pure mk 1 modded 1460g

Fork: Echo Sl Disk Black 680g

Freewheel: Echo Sl Titanium 108 143g

Stem: Rockman forged 157g

Front Brake: Hope mono Trial 180mm with Tryall disk 379g

Rear Brake: Magura hs33 2011 with TNN clamps alloy bolts and TNN Belaey pads 320g

BB: Echo urban ti 180g

Headset: Echo Sl modded 70g

Handlebars: Rockman Carbon with foam grips 226g

Pedals:Echo sl caged ti mod 210g

Cranks: Echo Sl 2011 170mm 410g

Front Tire: Continental Mountain King Supersonic 26x2.2 480g

Rear Tire: Maxxis Larsen TT 26x2.35 620g

Rear Sprocket: Echo Ti 15t 20g

Bash Ring: Echo sl half 19g

Tubes: Continental supersonic 80g CST standard 200g total: 280g

Chain: KMC z610-hx 280g

Front Wheel:

Rim: Echo Sl 620g

Hub: Echo Sl 138g

Spokes: 192.4g

Rim Tape: Trialtech 30g

Total:980.4g

Rear Wheel: Echo sl 26"

Rim: Echo Sl 780g

Hub: Echo Sl 176g

Spokes: 192.4g

Rim Tape: Trialtech 45g

Total:1193.4g

Total: 8107.8g

Lately Ive been running the mountain king on the rear and my Maxxlite 285 on the front (which i prefer over the Mountain king for the front, seem a tad large). With these the bike weighs in at weighs 7700g approx on floor scales

Next Changes will be:

-Changing front rim for Trialtech Square Hole

-Changing Rear rim for Rockman Single Wall

-Changing front brake line to Kevlar and shortening it

Enjoy

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Nice bike but I really don't understand why people feel the need to drill frames and other parts. I'd understand it if the bike weighed 7,5kg because that's light for a stock but 8,1kg can easily be accomplished using normal parts. Anyway, it's your bike not mine :P

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I would use Atomz rims for the rear. For 1 year I made a 610g light rear rim out of an old try all double wall rim, and it was strong enough. You can use 2/1.5/2mm spokes for the front rim and yes I would also change the hope hose.

BUT to drill the caged echo pedal...did you used caged pedals? 1 wrong side and you can change the cage and that's not a joke.

There are some point in the Echo frame what can be drilled without making it weak, but I think you didn't make a good job. I think it's a little bit weaker, so be careful with that bike.

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Nice bike but I really don't understand why people feel the need to drill frames and other parts. I'd understand it if the bike weighed 7,5kg because that's light for a stock but 8,1kg can easily be accomplished using normal parts. Anyway, it's your bike not mine :P

Given time it will be sub 7.5kg...like next couple of weeks

Reasons why i have done this:

1. I wanted to see how much i could remove without adversely affecting the structural integrity of the frame, sure this may have been comprimised to an extent but ive only removed material from places where the engineer at work recommended in fact ive not touched areas he recommended like the dropouts, seat tube etc.

2. boredom, its the middle of winter in NZ atm so riding is basicaly reserved for the weekends and the odd fine winter day we get here and there. Also I've quite enjoyed modifying these parts

3. Weight Reduction, initially i was going to wait for the next echo shipment and get a mk2 pure frame but for the price i paid for this frame i can get almost 2 mk1s for the price of one mk2.

I give it 2 months to live. + if you so concerned about weight... why are you using SL rims!?

Just out of interest where do you think it will break first?

The SL rims were cheap and my new rims should arrive by Monday... fingers crossed,

they should have arrived on the Tuesday just gone but they've only just left Singapore this morning

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I would use Atomz rims for the rear. For 1 year I made a 610g light rear rim out of an old try all double wall rim, and it was strong enough. You can use 2/1.5/2mm spokes for the front rim and yes I would also change the hope hose.

BUT to drill the caged echo pedal...did you used caged pedals? 1 wrong side and you can change the cage and that's not a joke.

There are some point in the Echo frame what can be drilled without making it weak, but I think you didn't make a good job. I think it's a little bit weaker, so be careful with that bike.

Hope hose and lighter rims are on the water should be here by Monday. The spokes i'm currently using are double butted (2/1.5/2mm) The pedals were new, if that's what you were asking???

What is wrong with drilling the cages, like i said the failures of the echo cage pedals have been well documented, however every broken set Ive seen still have intact cages and i'm looking at a way to relieve stress on the body of these pedals to prevent mine from failing also. I don't understand what you've said after that, 1 wrong side???? I suspect some error in translation. What parts do you not think Ive done a good job with? I'm fine with people critiquing what I have done but PLEASE be a bit more constructive with your feedback. Thankyou

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Just out of interest where do you think it will break first?

The SL rims were cheap and my new rims should arrive by Monday... fingers crossed,

they should have arrived on the Tuesday just gone but they've only just left Singapore this morning

Fair enough mate. i think it will go around the bb area because it wasnt done using a Milling machine so all the little cuts/grooves that have been left will be stress points/points of weakness. could be wrong though :P

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Explain me the mod on the headset, i like the bike , theres nothing more dangerous than a bored rider with a dremmel hhah

The headset just has the top cap, bolt, starnut and spacers removed from it and on the kitchen scales which are rather inaccurate, ive just brought a digital set so the weight table will get a re-hash once that arrives.

If you were going to go the full mental on it I would get those cable guides attacked, positioning of them is my only gripe of the whole frame would look much neater under the top tube.

yea if you look closely on the photo of mine, they are actually welded on the piss slightly

If you butchered the Tartybikes superlight project stock bike like that, you would probably get it into the 6kg barrier considering it weighed 7.80kg.

By my calculations, using what i would deem silly parts, carbon forks, ti spokes etc 6.4 is achievable without modifying anything

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I've put a lot more effort into the cutouts now, sanded the paint off and my hope hose parts and rims arrived today so I've built up the hose in a manner similar to that of some of the tarty staff builds...

Pedals have also seen some more modification, they now offer a lot more grip but have made wearing shin guards somewhat of a necessity.

Anyway here's some pictures of the last couple days progress

DSC03746.jpg

I squared up the edges as they were a tad on the piss, and generally cleaned up the area

DSC03745.jpg

Here are the pedals 'Ive not weighed them but i suspect they will be sub 200g for the set now. they are very grippy now!

DSC03750.jpg

Rims arrived a Trialtech Square hole front and a Rockman Single Wall rear. They aren't the lightest rims on the market but with the front this was the lightest 32h trials rim i could find. 32h to suit my echo hubs and prevent the extra cost of getting a 28h hub.

And with the rear I've only heard good things about these rims as opposed to the lighter v!z rims which I've only heard bad things about

DSC03747.jpg

Hope mono trial with new Kevlar hose and reduced weight setup. After giving this a proper bleed it is much much better than before with the braided line, looks much cleaner and i'm very happy with how it turned out

DSC03748.jpg

Also I'm taking suggestions on tire selection I'm liking the look of a Try-All shift/stiky lite set but will be just as happy keeping the mountain king on the front. any views on a Conti Rubber Queen 2.4 for the rear would be appreciated, Thanks.

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