stunt man t Posted July 14, 2012 Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 after a little advice..... (sorry for the poor discriptions on things but dont no the proper technicle jargen) ive just bought an rear Avid BB7 caliper and 160mm rotor but have no idea how to set it up properly as ive only ever used hydraulic disc brakes in the past (this is for my jump bike) but lots of people on here use the BB7 as trials so i thought id ask you lot because when i search the internet it comes up with advice from mtbr and others and they all say different things, and i dont understand it lol i must say that us trials riders no what were on about when it comes to bikes more then most because were allways fixing/changing things etc etc Basicaly, im using a shimano LX lever, new cable, outer cable from the lever to the cable guide thingy on the top tube (dunno what its called) then the bare cable to the end of the cable guide thingy on the top tube, then goes into another outer cable straight to the caliper.. (hope you under stand that?) lol ive pulled the cable as much as i can then tightend the cable pich bolt on the caliper to keep the cable tight so when as soon as i pull the lever in 2mm the caliper arm already moves The PROBLEM: The disc rubs a little, but if i loosen the caliper bolts and move the caliper so it dosent touch the rotor, the pads are well far from the rotor and when i pull the lever i have to pull it all the way in so it works? can i not set it up so i only pull the lever half way in before it locks? ive tried seting up the caliper so the rotor is bang in the middle then turning the knobs but it still moves the disc ( looks like its bending) when i pull the lever?? PLEASE HELP!! :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: Thanks for your advice much appreciated xxxxxx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted July 14, 2012 Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 (edited) BB7 setup is dead easy Have plenty of free slack in the cable. Have the caliper bolts loose so it can move side to side on the adaptor. Wind the inboard pad adjuster so that the pad sticks out past the caliper housing by about 1-1.5mm. Wind the outboard pad adjuster in so the caliper clamps the disk, the rotor should be clamped so that it is about three quaters of the way across the rotor slot towards the inboard side. Tighten up the two caliper screws. Wind the outboard adjuster out till it is clear of the disk. Wind the inboard adjuster out till the disk just doesnt rub when the wheel is spun. Adjust the barrel adjuster on the lever or the pinch bolt to table up any cable slack; it is important that you dont pull the caliper arm up at all whilst adjusting the cable slack otherwise you wont get maximum power out of it. Adjust the outboard adjuster until you get a lever feel/bite point that you like, if the brake feels really mushy or you can see the rotor being bent sideways as the outer pad hits it then you need to readjust as above. It might take a while to get it right first time but it soon becomes very, very quick and easy to get a perfect setup. Once Ive got it set and working properly I go back and remove and loctite each of the caliper screws one at a time, they can vibrate loose pretty easily! Edited July 14, 2012 by forteh 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revolver Posted July 14, 2012 Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 Nah, set it so it's closest to the still pad without rubbing. Maybe the disc is bent? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew_Gibson Posted July 14, 2012 Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunt man t Posted July 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 Nah, set it so it's closest to the still pad without rubbing. Maybe the disc is bent? there isnt a still pad they both move? the disc isnt bent, ive put it on a flat surface and its flush (and i have fliped it over, checked both sides... not like the hope rotor which IS bent) Wind the inboard pad adjuster so that the pad sticks out past the caliper housing by about 1-1.5mm. when i wind it, do i turn it like a normal bolt? to the right to tighten, left to loosen? it dont click?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted July 14, 2012 Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 (edited) These may help a little Edited July 14, 2012 by isitafox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunt man t Posted July 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 These may help a little yeah it has still 'spongy' though.... need to bed it in thanks mate, much appreciated BUT.. thats how i did it before and it still 'seems' rubbish... cant believe sooo many people like it??? isnt there any secret tips for it? cus if this is how it performs ill stick to my hopes or magura louise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted July 14, 2012 Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 (edited) Have you bought the brake brand new or 2nd hand?? If 2nd hand then I'd simply advise new pads and disc, other than that you could put the sponginess down to the cable?? EDIT: Just re-read and I believe your using it on the rear? If so then you'll find it spongy compared to a front due to the length of the cable. I had the same problem with the one I ran on the rear of my 4play, try a linear slick cable as I believe they are good for not stretching and I highly recommend a SD 7 lever as they have a dial adjuster to alter the feel between being quite spongey and firm Edited July 14, 2012 by isitafox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunt man t Posted July 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 no its 'Brand new' and so is the cable lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted July 14, 2012 Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 In that case just make sure the cable is well lubed up and again I'd try and get hold of a SD7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunt man t Posted July 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 In that case just make sure the cable is well lubed up and again I'd try and get hold of a SD7 wots a SD7? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted July 14, 2012 Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/cable_pull_levers/avid_sd7_lever_single/c555p10091.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted July 14, 2012 Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 I had a bb7 on the back and it was the biggest pile of shite ever, wouldnt hold on a curb, stick it on the front however and its insane, more powerful than any other disk brake Ive used. I think they can suffer badly from cable outer compression, I think its best to use decent quality (ie shimano) gear cable outer because it wont be so susceptable to compression, a linear slik is a good bet aswell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revolver Posted July 14, 2012 Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 there isnt a still pad they both move? No, only one pad moves on a bb7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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