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SRAM RS/RSC Guide for Trials?


woahroger

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From the photos, I'm guessing these are the RSC model in Black.

Sounds like you settled on sintered metal pads. Looks like the new SRAM discs also.

The caliper mount, is that SRAM or by the looks something much more made by someone else.

Any other changes and what is your final decision, they work well or not as expected?

PK

Riding with Karl over in Barcelona and back here since (I'm not sure how old the brakes are now) they seem solid still, My next brake of choice for sure!

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From the photos, I'm guessing these are the RSC model in Black.

Sounds like you settled on sintered metal pads. Looks like the new SRAM discs also.

The caliper mount, is that SRAM or by the looks something much more made by someone else.

Any other changes and what is your final decision, they work well or not as expected?

PK

Yes RSC

Uberbike sintered pads

Centreline 180 rotors

Hope Mounts a lot nicer than any other mounts.

They work really well, I did get a squeal back on them but I just stripped them down cleaned everything and was all good again. I have been riding a lot aswell. Modulation is bang on and lock up aswell.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I swapped out the DB5 brakes to RS Guides.

I have run both with sintered pads and the Guides are stronger.

New and with the SRAM bleed, the rear brake lever has more travel than the front. Tonight I installed the shortened hoses from the DB5s, bled both brakes with degassed Motul 600 fluid using the SRAM bleed tools. Both levers are solid with no air. Still the lever travels, or engagement points from front vs rear are noticeably different.

Also a bit of a let down since the RS brakes are advertised to have bearing at the lever pivots. They do not, only the RSC has the bearings. The RSC also has the engagement adjustment.

Undecided what the plan is next. Probably see about a warranty master cylinder to even up the lever travels.

Brakes work well, but the lever travel is a bit bothersome.

PK

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I would only get the rsc version of this brake personally. My lever travel is exactly the same on each brake, I have quite big hands and long fingers and like levers far out, so not had that issue. I washed my bike the other day and now rear is squealing again so that needs sorting, other than that been bang on, I got new discs and goodridge sintered pads to try next.

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I would only get the rsc version of this brake personally. My lever travel is exactly the same on each brake, I have quite big hands and long fingers and like levers far out, so not had that issue. I washed my bike the other day and now rear is squealing again so that needs sorting, other than that been bang on, I got new discs and goodridge sintered pads to try next.

Doing it again, I would agree.

Also, they advertise the RS as having a ball bearing lever pivot. It does not. So the cost difference from R to RS is a waste.

I did speak with my friend that owns the shop I bought the brakes from. Plan to warranty most likely the rear master cylinder assembly. Want to swap MC from left to right and right to left in order to verify it is the MC.

No time tonight, maybe by the weekend. Still rideable but attention grabbing with the long through before brake engagement.

Since I do have the DB5 MC assemblies, I may test them too since they do not have any mechanical multipliers in the lever movement. Basically old school moto style. The will work based on the same piston size as the R and RS.

PK

Edited by PMK
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Took the time today to troubleshoot the longer lever travel on the rear brake.

Took a silver permanent marker and applied a dot to the suspect master cylinder and rear caliper to ensure each was traceable.

1) Swapped master cylinders left to right, right to left. Problem continued to remain with the rear brake, same as before.

2) Moved rear caliper to front and front to rear. Problem moved to front, so it appears the caliper has some sort of issue. Not sure what since they are pretty basic, but something is making the lever stroke longer.

Called the shop and spoke with my friend that owns the shop. We talked about the brake and a replacement should come as warranty. In his words, as far as brakes, Shimano has it sorted out and in his opinion perform the best for mtb riding. I mentioned the Saint 820 series and if they were not on back order I would have ordered them and used these Guide RS on one of my other mtb machines.

PK

Edited by PMK
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  • 2 weeks later...

After waiting nearly four weeks for my sintered pads to arrive. I've finally fitted the guides on my console.

Quite a difference to the m810 I was running. Not as on/off as the saints but the power is definitely there!

Lever feel is nice and the hold is as good as the saint. The're also nice and quiet in therms of pad wobble, which is a plus.

So far so good!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Have had the Guide RS on the Inspired for a few weeks now. Initially, the first set had one brake with more lever travel than the other. Obtained another brake assembly under warranty. This one also had more lever travel than, similar to the first but not quite as bad.

Last night I had time to mess with it again. What I found disappointing is that using all the proper Avid tools for bleeding, and following the Avid procedure, this still left air in the system. To bleed these brakes to fully remove the air can test your patience. It seems that since the bleeding does not flow fluid through the caliper, it is easy to trap air inside the caliper. The Avid, bleeds at the caliper hose. Others do also like the Saints, but for whatever reason, these held air trapped.

I want to say that since the fluid does not pass through the caliper, the fluid is dead ended and holds air pockets.

Even when new, as supplied from Avid, the levers traveled different amounts. This now indicates that in production they have some problems removing the air.

In the end, I now have both levers with the same travel and the brake works well. I don't expect a lot of heat in these to degrade the fluid. If on a MTB where it is a good idea to bleed the brakes frequently to remove old fluid that has been overheated or absorbed moisture this will be pretty much impossible without disassembling the calipers.

Brakes work well, but the maintenance is not easy.

For others bleeding these, without doubt, degas your fluid in a glass jar under high vacuum. Use the degassed fluid in the syringes. If you are brave, work the caliper piston outward and then force them back in. This is the one way to move fluid in the caliper and it is a PIA to accomplish. FWIW, none of this is in the Avid bleed instructions.

PK

Edited by PMK
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Not bled mine but from the blurb these are meant to be easy to bleed.

Yes, they are easy to bleed for the most part, but if there is any air in the caliper, all bets are off.

My warranty set had air in them.

PK

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