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Right completly noob question thats probably been asked before but i cba to read through 69 pages to find out lol so anyway how does a gyro work ?

Adam

It doesn't. Just take your brakes off and do without

(Y)

As you've probably guessed i haven't the slightest as to how gyro's work :)

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righto ive got about 200-300 to spend on a bmx have posted in fs/wtd thread on here and looking on ebay, however if nothing comes up what would you advise for that sort of money new, or buy a cheaper bike new then upgrade parts? the reason i dont want to spend alot is because i dont know if im going to stay interested, i sold my custom bmx about 2 years ago and the last month ive wanted to get back out. obviously the parst avaliable have changed etc.

cheers callum

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callum

buy new - khe goldie seems to be a good bet.

adam -

there's 2 bits to a gyro, the top and the bottom. these go round the steerer under the stem and are attached together by a bearing thingy that lets them spin freely. when you pull the cable the top bit moves up and yanks the bottom bit with it - this pulls the bottom cable up and makes the caliper work.

look, i drew you a picture. the purple bits are cables, the grey bit is the top half, the red bit is the bottom half, the blue bits are bearings and the green bit is the steerer

post-5340-1186336621_thumb.jpg

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another quick Q alans is still thre place to buy parts from or custom riders, also anyone dealt with winstanleys l8ly (never had much of a service off them before)

Callum

alans and pijin are my favourites.

you can get stuff from winstanleys if you phone them up and talk to the bmx bloke - I wouldn't touch their online ordering personally

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What do people think of 'Kink', Alans have got a few new bikes in by them, they're mega light for the price, £275 and 27lbs!

http://www.alansbmx.com/products_new.php?p...f11d4fa8e7dd685

I'm not entirely convinced that £275 one has a full cromo frame - if not it's a ripoff and they shoudl be ashamed

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I've emailed my mum the link for the goldie so she can look at it at work, no reply yet though, i'm fairly sure she'll get it for me, i hope anyway.

watch out for the chainring, they are pretty pants, my mates got a goldie and his ovalised very quickly! proper flimsy thin stuff. other than that, bloody good value bikes, cant grumble for the price

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I've just dismantled and re-greased my gaysha and it's still making that bloody knocking noise when I coast forwards (less, but it's still doing it).

why's that?

shall I just ignore it?

will getting a solid axle make me less angry?

Only thing i could suggest is that anything thats drive train. Clean and re-grease. Worked when my odyessy cassette was making a gay noise.

Where was that link to the full wheel build geisha wheel? I remember seeing one ages ago, can't remember where though. And would you say the rim on this wheel build is of better quality than the odyessy hazard lite rim? :)

much thanks.

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Only thing i could suggest is that anything thats drive train. Clean and re-grease. Worked when my odyessy cassette was making a gay noise.

Where was that link to the full wheel build geisha wheel? I remember seeing one ages ago, can't remember where though. And would you say the rim on this wheel build is of better quality than the odyessy hazard lite rim? :)

much thanks.

reverse + hazard lite = what I'd buy if i didnt already have a gaysha on a hazard lite. For the money I don't think you can beat the hazard lite in terms of solidness and weight.

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reverse + hazard lite = what I'd buy if i didnt already have a gaysha on a hazard lite. For the money I don't think you can beat the hazard lite in terms of solidness and weight.

I'm guessing this reverse is another freecoaster? I guess i've been living under a rock while this discussion took place haha. What are the advantages of it over the geisha? Any disadvantages too?

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I'm guessing this reverse is another freecoaster? I guess i've been living under a rock while this discussion took place haha. What are the advantages of it over the geisha? Any disadvantages too?

it has the same internals as a gaysha but it comes with a solid axle instead of a gay female axle and stupid gay studs, is available in left hand drive and there's a choice of driver sizes.

the federal coaster is exactly the same apart from the hubshell

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it has the same internals as a gaysha but it comes with a solid axle instead of a gay female axle and stupid gay studs, is available in left hand drive and there's a choice of driver sizes.

the federal coaster is exactly the same apart from the hubshell

Just found the hubs on Alans. The Federal thing doesn't come in 48h apparently so that = no no.

That reverse looks pretty good to be quite honest. And if you say the axle is alot stronger and stuff...Its worth paying the extra 99p over the geisha lol.

Think i'll get it in left hand drive...I grind to the right B)lol

EDIT: According to Alans website its only available in right hand drive? :S

Now...last question for the night. Could somebody recommend me a good, strong half link chain? When it comes to chains the rule 'strength over weight' applies after seeing a friends flimsy chain snap on him in the bowl.

Edited by Barber
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i didnt say the axle was stronger, i said it wasnt gay,

reverse is supposed to be coming out in LHD, as is the federal. they had all sorts of trouble with supply when they were first coming out so it wouldnt surprise me if they were still having difficulties

its not a halflink but my loophole chain seems nice . my shadow stretched loads so i dont like them anymore

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I have 2 friends both running the Shadow V2 chain. I haven't seen them with any problems yet. There is also the KHE one to. Not sure what that's like.

LINK to wheel

The wheel isn't a special deal really as price for all the stuff together comes to the same amount ruffly.

Anyway i'm running a 36h balance rim at the back with 4x primo spokes and i haven't had any problems yet. I used to snap spokes when i ran 36h before but since i've been building wheels it's been fine.

Oh my 12t Dk freewheel came today. Seems like it's alot alot better quality than the 13t Odyssey one. Although i never had any real problems with them.

[edit] fogot to say i'm running the 6000 balance. never would i run a 7 series alloy rim.

Edited by eskimo
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do you not find your balance rim to be a bit weak? mine dents a bit easy and is the 6000 series, it is nice and light though and i find my riding is far smoother now so i guess the weakness is less of an issue

No, though alot of people said they were weak and my mate nackered a 7series, the spokes pulled through. But it's been on the front and now on the rear. Laced it 4x with loads of spoke tension and i haven't had any problems as of yet. I can't see myself getting a flat spot to easily as i run enough pressure. In saying that the only bmx rim that i flated was a Supra G so i guess all rims will if you make enough effort :P

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Haven't had any problems with mine on the rear either, was built by edwardes laced to a geisha in 36h. Just kept the spokes nice and tight, hasn't got any flat spots or dents, still perfect.

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its only been dents i have had troubles with really, i've had it buckle a few times but that was down to tired spokes and a lack of tension, cant blame the rim at all

anyway, its new rear hub time, my macneil needs a new axle, new bearings all round, new pawls, new spring...you get the idea....surprisingly it all still works but not as nicely as i would like, skips often...i don't want another

anyway, i haven't a clue what to get, it has to be 9t, 36h, 14mm and preferably available with a ti axle/driver...i have been tempted by a profile but i'm not sure if i can really justify the price...theres so many hubs out there now, most seem pretty decent, i just dont want another shitter like my macneil

i can get premium products at trade price, so i was maybe thinking of going for their wheelset (10t only) and getting a 28t premium ring to match? are they any good?

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its only been dents i have had troubles with really, i've had it buckle a few times but that was down to tired spokes and a lack of tension, cant blame the rim at all

anyway, its new rear hub time, my macneil needs a new axle, new bearings all round, new pawls, new spring...you get the idea....surprisingly it all still works but not as nicely as i would like, skips often...i don't want another

anyway, i haven't a clue what to get, it has to be 9t, 36h, 14mm and preferably available with a ti axle/driver...i have been tempted by a profile but i'm not sure if i can really justify the price...theres so many hubs out there now, most seem pretty decent, i just dont want another shitter like my macneil

i can get premium products at trade price, so i was maybe thinking of going for their wheelset (10t only) and getting a 28t premium ring to match? are they any good?

The Premium parts are over looked. I almost bought their cranks untill i discovered the new DK Social's so i just went with them. The rear hub is a 40h isn't it? Nice idea but didn't really take off i guess. Generally i don't know anything about the internals though. I am suprised about the Macneil hub itself. The thing about it being as strong as a 48h hub is a lie but the internals should of been better? I know you can get spairs for them. Why do you want a Ti driver and driver? If you didn't read one of my previous posts here it is again for you.

Odyssey cassette 48h, ti spokes, ti axle, 12t 2 piece standard driver, brass nipples, supra b1 rim.

WTP Pi flip flop 36h, primo forged spokes, brass nipples, hollow chromo axle, 12t Dk f/w, Balance rim 6s.

Which is lighter? The WTP... Perhaps not on the scales but i'm not sure, when riding the WTP feels alot lighter. Perhaps because of the 36h, i don't know.

As for a rear hub i don't know?

KHE Lolita, cheap, 36 and 48 holes, 9t driver. Light.

Demolition with a 7075 driver? Lighter and tougher than ti, apparently.

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i'm pretty sure the premium wheelsets come in 36h, i will double check though.

i did just find new parts for the macneil that make it financially viable to actually rebuild :) so thats always an option. they only claim the hub is stronger than a 48h hub, not the wheelbuild. the deep flanges are a pain in the arse, they just mean that once you have given them a few knocks, the alloy burrs up and you have to file away at it to take out broken spokes and stuff. i'm using a hub guard now to save the hassle, i may even machine off the extra material as its unwanted weight.

i don't necessarily want a ti axle/driver, just the option to have them if i so wish, the ti axle on my powerbites is half the weight of the original steel one! i notice it...i also don't want to run a tiny freewheel, after having a 13t one, i'm really doubting the reliability of a 12t, theres just not enough room for proper internals

anyway, the lolita and demolition look tempting, i had even thought about a reverse but i doubt i would get along with it, i shall look into them a bit more, thanks :)

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