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Hope Mono Trial?


JT!

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Given up on my avid now. Just hasn't got the power i've felt with other people discs so it's time for a change.

When i bought my avid i was on a budget, but now i'm not, so i was thinking the Hope Mono Trial 180mm? Never owned a hope product but i hear only good things about their 'after service' which is reassuring, but I've heard some rotors braking and pistons sticking, how common is this?

And any other info you want to tell me through it my way. :P

Also, when i asked CRC if they would ever stock a 180mm hope mono trials they said this:

Sorry to say that there was never a 180mm version of that brake as it is not suitable trials

if you are looking a 180mm you would be better going for the Mono Mini Brake with a Mono M4 Rotor.

You can buy them form fartydykes for a start and why are they not 'suitable' for trials?

Cheers all. (Y)

Edited by JT!
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Hope trials are awesome, i use a 160 on my stock and it works fine, and the rotors well out the way. Only ever had 1 problem with it, where i fell off a ledge, bike landed hard on the lever blade and ripped it out. Hope replaced the bits free of charge :) . So yeah, buy one :D . 160 should definately be enough for a mod btw. My piston has never stuck (touch wood)

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They where never made available to other bike shops in 180 as far as im aware? they whre special order by the lads at Tartybikes.

Ive riden one or two of these disc, and i like them. The lever feel is so nice, The shape of the blade is so comfy.

Cant really add more to that as it was only a quick few hops.

Tom

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I'm sticking with 180 i think. It's not like it's massive like a 203 (or whatever it is) avid. Can't really be over powerful can it :D .

So am i right in thinking there's a TPA (or something that does the same job as a maggie's TPA) but no pad individual pad ajustment yeah?

Edited by JT!
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There is no TPA on the brake, it has automatic pad ajustmant so the pads will adjust them sleves as they wear.

just dont pull the lever without the rotar in the caliper or else you will have to prise the pads apart with a screw driver so the rotar will fit back in.

ive warped a rotar on my mono trial put hope replaced it for me, also i had a partially sticky piston so hope replaced my lever for me. great service by them.

Also dont give the caliper to many hard knocks as i knocked the seals out of place which made it piss out oil but thankfully hope fixed that for me aswell.

As for the performance of the break i love it, i have a 160 mm rotar on my mod and that sends me over the bars easily, has plenty of modultion and lots of bite. deffinatly a brake worth buying. (Y)

Edited by smelly joe
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There is no TPA on the brake, it has automatic pad ajustmant so the pads will adjust them sleves as they wear.

That's probably good in my case, as i spend hours fiddling. ^_^

I asume it dosn't do that thing where you pull the leaver and the leaver moves without pushing any fluid though for a bit of the leavers movement do you? Like when you undo your maggies TPA right off, if you know what i mean.

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I asume it dosn't do that thing where you pull the leaver and the leaver moves without pushing any fluid though for a bit of the leavers movement do you? Like when you undo your maggies TPA right off, if you know what i mean.

Nope, Its a open system with a resivoir so there is always extra oil in the resivoir to take the place of the oil that is being used to adjust the pads so you always push straight onto fluid, so there is no real play in the lever.

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Nope, Its a open system with a resivoir so there is always extra oil in the resivoir to take the place of the oil that is being used to adjust the pads so you always push straight onto fluid, so there is no real play in the lever.

Humm ok, cheers for the info, my understanding of open / closed systems isn't great, even though i googled it, but i think i get what you mean.

Another question, both pads move don't they?

Edited by JT!
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just to clear this up.

Hope have done a "caliper No3" which equates to a 180mm rotor for donkeys now, when the brake was 1st out it was purely designed on a "caliper no5" for koxx. now they have put it in their line up of brakes, they have done a caliper number 3 :D for 180. iv had 180mm all the time wouldnt use anything smaller.

NOTE: on koxx forks you use caliper number 5 with a 190disc AS the forks have mounts higher, therefore require a +30mm disc, IF you used a caliper number 3 on koxx forks you would unfortunatly have to get a 210mm rotor, which not alot of people will make as its quite "large" hope would probably make one BUT the power of the break would literally screw forks for the fun. as the power in Mono Trial brakes are amazing.

Waynio............................ (Y):)

PS something for you to ponder about ;) from my trip there last week......... you may find that this MAY start coming on hope brakes :P:o

There is no TPA on the brake, it has automatic pad ajustmant so the pads will adjust them sleves as they wear.

;) hehehehehehe. dont want to give the game away............EVEN on an open system. B)

Edited by Waynio
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PS something for you to ponder about ;) from my trip there last week......... you may find that this MAY start coming on hope brakes :P:o

;) hehehehehehe. dont want to give the game away............EVEN on an open system. B)

but avid and hayes have already been doing that so its nothing new or extraordinary, hope are behind the competition

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No they're not. Hope had TPA's on their closed systems, which in fact were very good. I had an old No. 3, which was the Hope Hydro (later C2 Sport), and the power/response was easily comparable to my Mono Trial.

As it happens JT, I run a 180mm Hope Mono Trial on a standard fork and use the Hope +20mm caliper mounting.

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we are talking about the open systems..........the c2 was closed, the mono trial is open(im sure you are aware of that) so i was gettin at hope being behind the competition in terms of having a fully adjustable open hydraulic system

and yeah i agree, the c2 was amazing, its a pity the newer disc by hope dont compare as well to the older ones :(

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yes but trust me mate, hopes will be more "refined" as you could put it, do the avid ones really work? or do they only work for a few weeks??? ;) iv heard mixed reports on it. but trust me if you had the following:

Lever reach adjustment

Lever FEEL adjustment

Pad (TPA) adjustment???

and all that worked properly all the time???? :o:o:-

Waynio......................

wait and see, it may not ever happen but again, something i was told last week.

il put another topic up on "Pro 3!!!" hubs aswell for you all to read into..............if you like.

"whats a Pro3????" ;) you will see soon and il post up, altho its nothing out of the "extra ordinary"

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The mono has an adjuster anyway. The grub screw in the lever, you can adjust where the brake bites with that. I wouldnt want a tpa on my disk brake, all I want is for the grub screw to stay where you put it and not move itself in now and then.

P.S I use the 160 mono trial with the +20 adapter, is better than 160. Not sure if buying 160 and an adapter works out cheaper than buying the 180 version.

Edited by JIX
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cheaper to buy a 180 straight off, saves you £20.00 on the +20mm adaptor.

the screw in the lever ONLY adjusts lever reach. it does not control fluid at all. if you look the only thing that moves is the brass job with threads on and this adjusts where the lever blade is positioned.

the new adjustments will possibly allow the things i stated above easier and simpler. it all depends on what will happen in the near few months. with hope moving etc etc. i was speaking to Ash smith about it too "Trialnoir", he was the first to tell me bout it then i spoke to hope about it wednesday :D they have some amazing ideas and plans (Y)

Waynio.......................

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Wayne no.

haha

When you screw the grub screw you either move the lever closer to the bar or further away. This affects where the brake bites. What it doesnt change is the lever travel. e.g. The lever starts further out and finishes further out. or starts futher in and ends further in.

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honestly is doesnt :(

its only a "lever reach adjuster" not an oil adjusting thing. the brake *(if towed right back will bite right at the bars) if pushed out will bite further out if you get me, it wont bite quicker. the lever for example if it travels 5mm to start with but lever RIGHT aout and only pulls half way and you want your lever closer to bar screw it in a few turns and it will still travel 5mm BUT will be pulling closer to the bar (Y) (i hope and i think) all mine do that any way and iv got about 3 or 4 of em, and iv checked the ones at work too. thats why they were designing a lever to adjust everything.

"JT!" try all brake is exactly the same dude (Y):D just different colour

Waynio....................

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Yeah wayne, sorry read your pm before this post, I say that in my post that it dont change the lever travel

When you screw the grub screw you either move the lever closer to the bar or further away. This affects where the brake bites. What it doesnt change is the lever travel. e.g. The lever starts further out and finishes further out. or starts futher in and ends further in.
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