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Maggie


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ive got a old front maggie still with a "monty hose splitter" like that, there good, but hard to bleed :( i suggest youi look on the cleanbike site cleanbikes

um, i want to get that hose splitter thing, why is it hard to bleed, is it the same as the standard hose(crossover). i've never bleed any maguras before, wats the difference between the 2???

help appretiated

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the gold nut is titanium its just to save weight i guess. snap easy and also round of easy aswel.

The weight being saved will be not be enough to tell the difference and to my knowledge is'nt titanium one of the strongest metals and you can only cut it with a laser, so why would it round off easy?, and craig photo shopped the gold bolt to green on his post in bike picture's, but the gold is normal, I think.

Does anyone know where to buy the that bolt from, if not anyone know what its called?

Thank You, Will

Edited by will17will17
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um, i want to get that hose splitter thing, why is it hard to bleed, is it the same as the standard hose(crossover). i've never bleed any maguras before, wats the difference between the 2???

help appretiated

there is no differance.takes me 2 minutes to bleed a brake it isnt hard.

the gold nut is titanium its just to save weight i guess. snap easy and also round of easy aswel.

how do they round off easy? or are you using the rong sized/dodgey allen key.ti is the highest quality metal.better than steel better then aliminium.and the weight saving can be that much :P whoever said that :lol:

anyway you will be able to get a hold of a bolt to go in your magura from a shop that sells bolts.anything like focus , jewsons , hardware stores....

max.....

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Hey, If you use the splitter when you bleed the break you will have to bleed it through both slaves rather than just the one that the hose doesn't go into, guess the easy'st way to do this would be to bleed it the oposite way to useual, like push the liquid into the lever, so it comes out both slaves evenly.

As for the bolts, Titaniums not a super metal that can only be cut with a lazer, but lazer cutting is quite commonly used on it, as its less waistfull, which is more important with an expencive metal. Its around the same strength as steel, only fractionaly weeker, but it weights alot less (but not as little as aluminium), this gives it a great strength to weight ratio, so its great for things where weight and strength matter, ie bolts (or most things on a bike really)

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Ive never bled brakes before, but couldn't you bleed it through one slave first, then put the bolt in and keep bleeding so the fluid fills the other side as well :ermm:

Problem is that the idea isnt just to fill the break with fluid, but to have absolutly no air bubbles in the system, so if you blead one side, then put the bolt in it, theres a chance an air bubble would go into the side you'd already done while you were doing the other side. If that makes sence. :huh:

I think the easy'st way would be to bleed the system putting fluid into the master (lever) so that it goes through the system and out of both slaves at once, then when theres no air in it, just put all the bolts in carefuly. (Y)

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Right let sort a few things up. As far as i know it i'm the only one that has really played with these things.

The bolts. There not Ti what so ever. Just really shite cheap and nasty weak but uber light weight alloy thats anodized gold. Same @ DJ 1st ride snaped one in his frame...need i go on?

The spilter, pain to fit, i have a good way now!

You can bleed it in a few ways

1 - Left to the leaver, seal, then right to the leaver then seal. Then bleed form leaver out of both slaves.

2- Both slaves at the same time with two syringes

3 - Bath bleed thing

4 - Modified Hope bleed kit like i use

Water is best in these and makes them work, you need to of the same slaves, not only for it to work but look right as well!

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