• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

12 Good

1 Follower

About robkerly

  • Rank
    Trials Monkey

Profile Information

  • Gender

Previous Fields

  • County (UK Only)
  • Real Name
    rob kerly
  • Bike Ridden
  • Country
    United Kingdom
  1. make sure its spotlessly clean. oil from the chain or tiny amounts of weepage from the brakes or even off the tyres if youve ridden across a damp road spreads everywhere. brake cleaner is good. personally i find meths and a clean rag is great on rims.
  2. yep you can boil both the pads and the rotors. it does a pretty good job of lifting out oily residue. while they are out give the calipers a good clean. brake cleaner or meths on a rag work fine. the slx brake may come with a semi sintered pad designed to work under more heat and mud/water than a trials bike expects. my personal experience is that organic compound pads have the most bite from cold, therefore suiting trials better than sintered or kevlar compounds. i have used many of the cheaper after market pads in the past like AtoZ and superstar components and reckon the genuine shimano ones are better quality but give yours a thorough clean first and see how it goes
  3. first up just make sure they are perfectly clean. boiling the rotors and pads will make sure they are as free from contaminates as possible. then make sure the calipers are set up perfectly square with the rotors. if a pad on one side is hitting first or if the pads are at an angle this will make a big difference. super anal levels of perfect alignment makes a noticeable difference. you can tell by pulling the brake lever on and off while looking really closely at the rotor, if it flexes to one side, or twists at all, it can be made better. If you get them running perfectly square and you still want more power, bigger rotors or softer pads are the solution. the brakes them selves have the potential to be plenty powerful. personally i find shimano brakes run best on shimano branded rotors, and I have had very good results from the trialtech branded after market pads
  4. doesnt need to be that one specifically, im not even sure its in stock. i have previously found dmr singlespeed hubs on ebay cheap that have the same kind of fittings for sprocket and disc. also, there are now splined type ones which wouldnt be compatible with your current sprocket, and older tryall branded ones floating about that use a traditional shimano cassete type spline. either could work but you would need to use the right type of sprocket for them
  5. you can convert to discs no matter what type of cranks you have but the type of parts you need will vary. the zoot comes standard with a front free wheel setup, where the ratchet is screwed onto the cranks, and a fixed sprocket on the rear hub. this is also screwed on. the hub width is 135mm for the rear and usually 32 spokes (count them) . the hub has a thread on one side to screw on the sprocket and you will need one that has this thread on one side and 6 disc mounting holes on the other side. as reference tartybikes sell a 'trialtech sport 135mm rear disc hub' the front hub can be any standard mountain bike front disc hub. a trials brand one will usually have bolts instead of a quick release skewer, which do hold the wheel in better. unfortunately the rear hubs are rather expensive, and may require a different length spoke when laced into your rims so be prepared for that extra cost. you may find it cheaper to buy a set of used wheels or even an entire bike which already has disc breaks and disc ready wheels to scavenge for parts
  6. drain it, but make sure you use something clean. pin is fine but boil it first
  7. ah, in that case either the bb cup isnt screwed in tight or the bb is worn. if you unscrewed it to fit that extra spacer, it maybe loose. if not, its the bearing in the bottom bracket, which are cartridge type and non adjustable. trials is pretty harsh on drivetrain components and they tend to get play fairly quickly. if you can put up with a bit of wobble, it will probably last that way for ages and ages, or you need a re[placement bb
  8. can you explain better where this movement of 1 to 2mm is?
  9. first things first, don't panic. most front free wheel setups seem to spin the cranks with the chain while you are pushing the bike. there is usually slightly more drag in the freewheel mechanism that the bottom bracket bearings. in time you might find the cranks sometimes spin and sometimes not, if they find a slightly tighter spot on the bb once it been used a bit. as for forks, look like neon judging by the logo, which looks factory rather than a sticker. somebody else on here might be able to tell you more. also, they could be a 24 or 26 inch fork as often they have a very similar axle to crown length (sometimes the 24 is actually longer) look tasty though
  10. a lot of personal preference i reckon. I've tried to teach myself to ride nearer my toes as it makes me feel more springy for static moves, less confidence in staying on the pedals though, and i found im more anal about what shoes im confortable with riding in, (stiffer sole) that when i ran more central, anything vaguely flat felt ok.
  11. brakes are surprisingly powerful, even with a booster you will get some flex, i often come across the clamp bolts have been bent by the braking force too!
  12. i think these come with a non disc-ready wheelset, so although the frame has mounts for a disc, the hubs dont. In this case you will need to replace the front hub or front wheel as well.
  13. hi. i think the tr lever blade is held onto the pivot by a little grub screw. undo that and the pivot pin should slide out letting you remove the lever blade. removing the piston can be tricky if it doesnt pop out by itself. you could try to insert your bleed kit into the lever with bleed screw IN and use the fluid pressure to push it out. this will make a mess though
  14. your zoot definitely has a 135mm 'fixed' rear hub. hope that helps
  15. exactly the same 3 cross technique as 32 or 36 holes, unless you are going for radial spokes (no crossing at all). wheelpro is a good little website thing for measuring the spoke lengths you will need. start by lacing everything loosely, next, make it round, (remove flat spots / oval etc) again not very tight yet, then make it true side to side. checking where you want it to be with your dishing tool while you go. I have never used a tension gauge, just used my intuition but the manufacturers will probably suggest a safe working tension. making sure they are as near the same tension as possible is more important that having the exact spot on tension, as they are all sharing the tension equally. work in small increments, maybe a quarter turn at a time, so as not to over tension one half of the wheel and warp the rim. its very simple and easy if you take your time and be methodical. good luck!