aener

They're nice'n'all, but what's the need for two such similar set-ups?

And that cleaning all the mud off those pedals probably would've saved more weight than those holes in the bash

Never do that again.

Loughborough's pretty pants for trials - but we recently got a new skatepark built. I got a £100 bargain BMX off eBay for a bit of fun on the side. It's fun. Real fun. But coming from a reasonably TGS background, I'm somewhat lacking in imagination. Tried watching some BMX DVD's, which help out, and I love watching - but street really doesn't do it for me. All the ones I find are 90% street, if not 100%. I'm after the opposite - mostly park with the odd street clip. Found a whole bunch of normal videos - but I like the whole sit-down-and-chill-for-45-minutes thing. Thanks

Super cool. You went to all the spots we went to, plus that circle place which we didn't. Don't know how we missed you

I'm in the BB7's-just-don't-work-on-the-rear gang. But - the cable housing could make a difference. It works when it's hot 'cause it bites more. If you have a stiffer outer cable, more of your lever pulling will go directly to the pivot, rather than being wasted in outer flex. If more of your power goes to the brake, where it's needed, it'll feel easier to pull, which lets you pull it harder for the same amount of effort, which'll result in more power. Maybe you won't feel the difference if already have a slic, but going from a super shit one to a good one DOES make a difference. If you can afford it though, hydraulic (read: Hope) all the way, or back to a rim brake

SWEET. What FPS is that? Love it. Would like to see a proper monster in this sort of speed to see how much of their bike flexes.

Would be super cool if it could be melted with a blowtorch or something, too Cracked downtube: melt glue at welds, buy replacement, glue it in! Hehe.

I know it's not your point, but that tap is f**king MONSTROUS. I'm not saying you shouldn't be, but I'm a little surprised at how biased you are seeing as you work for Tarty. I'm left wondering if you feel the same about comp riders having such specialist setups so they can be more stable/get up bigger rocks, at the sacrifice of being an all-rounder. Or if you feel everyone should ride bikes that are not massively lighter than normal bikes so they're bombproof, rather than reaping the advantages of a light bike for their style of riding and accepting the consequences. Can't stress enough how much this isn't a defensive post... I guess it's a query about whether you think everyone should ride super-passive bikes, or if it's simply TGSism Please don't take this as a dig - if it reads like one it's due to my incompetent writing.

Me too. Me Three! Me no. Keys would be coooold. I knew these existed, and had an idea of how they must move about to make it work, but seeing it in action is unbelievable. That was amazing.

As a video, it was very nice. As a trials video, it was lacking in action a bit. What was there was very nice though!

Well HE can go big. Hehe.

That's answer enough for me! Guess I'm just being a bit too anal

I just watched it on youtube instead of from my hard-drive, and fond out you can barely see what I'm talking about. I guess that renders the question useless, unless you fancy giving me peace of mind so I can make the ones on my hard-drive look super sweet

Recorded some clips earlier, and happened to stay out until it got dark. Decided to get to know how to use a camera a bit mor ethan point and shoot. The most notable example of the issue I'm trying to overcome came during the light, which puzzled me. The two clips of the Hope lever. The first isn't so bad - but the second has some really bad grain going on. I don't remember changing anything between taking the two clips, though I suppose I must have. What settings can I change to reduce this? I have manual control over: White Balance, Aperture Size, Shutter Speed, EV, Focus, and turning Tele Macro on and off. The night clips aren't as bad as normal since I changed the aperture size to a smaller setting, and the shutter speed to 1/50 rather than "auto", which seems like 1/10 or something. It reduces the grain, but I can't get rid of it. I read somewhere a long time ago changing the WB would help things like this, but it just turns it purple, red and blue Are the night-clips about as good as they'll get? It's not an expensive camera so its only got a diddy sensor in it - so I'm Ok with it if it is - would just like to improve them if possible. The horrible looking clip on the end is what the camera's "Smart Auto" setting looks like. On a different note - the night clips are the first ones I've ever really tried to make look good. What differences would make them better? Thanks for any light you can shed - I googled for a while, but don't have a clue what I'm talking about. "reducing graininess night footage" yields poor results. Oh - and I bet you can't guess which is my wrong side to sidehop

Horay for the ratio! Much more watchable - though I fear slightly less entertaining than previous efforts.

I didn't realize those sorts of dimensions could exist!

Flipp.