Dan_Trials

Perhaps not, but Im still slacking, ill and lazy.

Just a shame you don't get the business to prove it.

HAHAHA yeah right!

Brake cleaner should not contain any oils. It's purpose is to remove everything from the brake rotor and friction material, including itself by evaporation. The cleaners that leave a residue will be degreaser. Most are now fortified with rust inhibiters to, you guessed it, prevent rust. These will leave an oily film because that is what they are designed to do. If you want to clean you brakes use brake cleaner, Comma or AutoGem work best in aerosol form, or you can get a fluid spray in a 5 ltr tin (bulk buying ***) by Swarfega called StopQuik, this works well too.

I am ill, I have bird flu and so I am off work. Inbetween PlayStation and the internet I am clearing out the spare room as we have guests coming next month. It is amazing all the wonderfull things I keep finding! I think I have enough bits to build another Trials bike!

You were taking them off just to clean them though, and while doing so you mashed them with a hammer. There's always a reason to get the hammer out!

I find riding natural is not as bad as riding street on my own. Getting that enthousiasm to ride can be quite hard sometimes, I watch videos of riders that inspire me and listen to music that gets me itching to ride. However sometimes I think that having a break from doing something makes you 'hungry' to do it after a while and so you beast everything next time.

I can't stop laughing at the bit 24 seconds in, I keep watching it over and over. It's just the way the bike gets flung so far!

From: MJ Cycles 01925 650100 (Mike's shop) Called: Them cool little lights you put on Trials Forum. go go go!

Depends what width of rim you have too, if it's too narrow for the tyre it will fold it and then it's pointless. You can pretty much get away with it on the front (as I have managed so far) but on the rear I'd rather keep the tyre profile square. Also, I'm sure you are aware, the bigger the tyre the heavier. This is also true for the softer the compound. You just got to play around with different setups until you find what you are happy with. If you can spare the cash give it a try, experiment with different pressures and so on and see what you think.

That is one of the best ways, or use a SS kit, which is basically the same. However, I got the impression he was after something free and instant so he can ride tomorrow. I know that's how it used to be with me anyway!

I hadn't at the time, but I do have a chilled one with me now Anyways, it wasn't alchahol fueled it was sarcastic piss ripping humur based bollux.

Yeah that one is funny, but I trials rider wouldnt have let that happen

No. Chances are you wont get the chain to the correct length where it is tensioned. It will be either too long or too short. Using the mech will tension it right up, or get a tensioner that will replace the mech.

Because of the chain slack. When you land a bunny hop for example everything goes slack and the chain is free to come off. Tensioning the chain right up will stop this.

Hmm, no, if he had a helmet like the Giro Hex on, you know the one with all the air scoops up it, then due to the increased drag it would have held his head up and he would have ridden away. Maybe.

Diamond Back screwed over Martin Hawyes, that's reason enough to let them die a slow painfull death in my book.

My brother has a MAD 2.six, which is basically the same bike. The reason the chain comes off the front sprocket is because it is too far over to the right and the chain line is out when you use anything less than 4th gear. Because of the design of the chain stays the only way to bring the sprocket further in would be to use an 18 tooth (which is pretty pointless as you would then need to use the lower gears anyway). My solution is to put the bike in 5th, which is 16tooth but gives the best chain line, and ride it like that for a while untill you are sure you can live with that ratio, it is a little harder than some people like. If you are happy with it then shorten the chain as you described above. If you want to use 4th, it would be ebst to pop the cassette apart and swap 4th and 5th so the chain is lined up better. Then get a nice single speed kit and tensioner from Tarty Bikes!

Nah Im not that serious. Its just if you want to get the most from it thats one way to do it. With me, I have to keep an eye on what I eat anyway but in a totally laid back "hmm, havent had much salt this week... 3 packs of crisps it is then." kind of way. As for resting, if Ive been doing heavy stuff, I just make sure Im relaxed in front of the PS2 or PC rather than doing something 'active' like DIY or whatever.

They do for me now too. That really is rather nice, Ive never like the low top tube and high BB frames, but that one is slowly winning me over. Nice work mate!

Pics dont work

Giant and Ashton both in my sig

Nah, that's from clenching your sphincter when doing big gaps! On a more serious note though, seen the size of Leech's calf muscles? Ashton's forearms? These are the final leverage points before the bike (your feet/hands are on the ends of them!) I believe this where you need to concentrate strength building on the most. Obviously the other muscles connected to them are important too, but maybe not as crucial. I try to do running and push ups as often as I can (which is not often enough). Your diet is important, eat raw tuna after a workout yum yum. Also it's when you are resting that your muscles grow, so a good nights sleep is required too. Remember to stretch before and after and do something lightly demanding the next day to keep the lactic acid down. http://www.alwaysgaining.com/ is quite helpful. It looks very like a scam but I gave it a go and all is well. It just concentrates too much on World's Strongest Man type stuff for trials riding. Quite a lot of handy info in there though, you just got to find it. You need mass to turn into mucle, again why your diet is so important.

Well look at it as your tyres slipping on the wet concrete like your brake pads slipping on the rim. I can tell from the way the bike is when I need to regrind, so to me it is noticeable. On the other hand if it isnt limiting you then maybe you dont need it.

Put it on from the bottom bracket side of the chainring rather than the bash guard side.