dave85

Still, if you buy a gas welder you can in an emergency use fluxed wire, if you buy a gasless you're f**ked. It aint that much harder to use a proper MIG plant than a gasless, and it's much more versatile. The only time gas loses out is if you're trying to weld in strong winds, and I doubt anyone mending a car for a hobby would be doing that.

The grub screw would have to move the whole pad carrier bit forwards so the pad comes back to rest on it. Otherwise there's no point. A simpler solution is new plastic washers for the slaves, and set them up to exactly where you want.

Be rate yoth

Go do something useful, cut up firewood, go running, make something, fix your car, clean your bike, anything. Sitting about pondering on it aint going to improve matters.

On the whole, the TGS lot couldnt win an argument if their lives depended on it, it just degenerates to threats.

And I think street's gay. That should get a load of people going "IN!!!"

Looks like we'll have to split the engine and box to get it out the bottom, there's a crossmember in the way of the bellhousing. Bellhousing bolts look a twat to get to as well so it'll be easier to lift it out.

It's diminishing returns though isnt it? I noticed a nice difference between 16, 21 and 72 engagment points, I'm not sure I'd be so impressed going to 120 point. All three firms you name, or the first two at least, have strong, reliable mechanisms. This one has a couple of fairly dubious points, and needs to be made with greater accuracy, so it's going to be expensive. Doesnt really strike me as worth changing to this mechanism for the small benefits.

It aint M6 though, it's an M5 helicoil tap you need. There is a difference.

Bearing in mind these bits of plastic were out the back door of a local moulding shop, I reckon they contained liquid pigments rather than powder, which as you say are compound-changing materials, still called pigments though

I'm not confusing it,and do know about carbon black and rubber vulcanisation, but I've seen 2 pairs of pads, both made from the same compound but with different pigments, give completely different performances. I accept it isnt a truly scientific observation, but how can something mixed within a material not make a difference?

Isn't a pigment part of the compound though? I would infer from that sentance that the pads may not work the same, not that the manufacturer is telling lies.

Im not doubting it lasts well under normal riding around, but trials will I imagine create some pretty large forces trying to burst the ratchet apart or squash the freehub. I'd be interested to try one though.

In all the ones I've stripped, the split ring is part of the bearing, it'll fall to pieces if you get that out. Failing the proper tool, find a socket that'll fit down the hole and gently tap the bearing out.

I agree, but isnt saying lycra is OK the logical conclusion of that idea?

Pro II is the modern version of the XC. Bit bigger and beefier, bit lighter, steel ends to the axle to grip the forks too. Worth the extra fiver I would say.

The king is three (ish) times the price of the XC and is not three times better. The XC is a superb hub for the money, made in England too.

Quite tempted to take the Scammell down there to drag it into Allsop's metals for the 60 quid he owes me

Give me a few hours dude and I'll find his number, he's a friend of a friend of a friend

Smooth rims always, some people have ceramic coated rims but never a grind. Maguras develop huge braking force at speed, even in the wet they're more than powerful enough with kool-stop pads.

As an outside possibilty, poor threads on the pedal would cause the crank threads to strip like that.

In any case, I'd win that, you'd just have to do some serious dusting to find the things

Must be, natural progression and all that. On topic: three and a half.

The helical splines hold the two driverings together. If the spring does fail, engagment will be a bit sketchy and you'll know about it, but it shouldnt dump you on your arse.