Alex Dark

See the bulgy bit in the blade, where the bolt would protrude if you pushed it down far enough? Thats where it goes. Between the tpa bodge bolt, and the thing labelled "this --->"

Yeh.that's what hayes, hope and shimano recommend for minor decontamination Where did you get yours from? couldn't find any when i looked in chemists and that

Erm, never heard of that Sure you don't mean hacksaw?

what bar and stem have you got on the Rex? Al depends on that really....

:| personal preference, tyre type, terrain, rider weight all affect this.... Just experiment with different pressures. Start at 25 psi, then let it down in increments until you find a happy medium

hah No worries man shame you had to kill the cog, but oh well

take the pads out, then lever the pistons apart * carefully* with a plastic tyre lever

As you both ride mod, im willing to bet both of you haven't ever ran a rear vee?

We are not worthy Sir Chinnery!

Click Me

New pads orrr.... try gritty mud on the pads/rotor

Mint deal that rex I'd get that if you want a new stock for sure

I love mine strong, hold pins well,. and light as fek

Magura : Lighter if you have maggura mounts, easier to get a aworking setup, generally cheaper than a comparable vee, easier to upgrade, better bite, less hassle to setup, mod's and vee's tend not to go too well ( rear vee that is ) Vee: Better hold with a decent setup, lighter if you have vee mounts, no bleeding/split hoses issues, quieter, works better backwards Edit: oh and better pad selection with magura

Ride in the rain/ whack some water on the rotor....if not it'll be new pads and boil the rotor

Yeh they're pretty damn nice to ride, higher bb version of the old coust mk1 frame pretty much, so sound geo

erm people use modstock all the time.... definite tra called the "angelboy" a mock.....may not be used, but surely easier if people know what it means

Now that actually looks damn nice....good job tris i'm well impressed..... now where's my coust i need a bike dude!

That helped, and in a humorous way too That didn't

FFW = front freewheel IS = international standard DD = dual disc HS= headset HA = head-angle Mock= stock with 20" front wheel Mod-Stock = stock with 116 spacing rear end to take mod hub

Righto, Got a t-master front hub and a rear try-all hub (satin black with big white tryall logo) with blown bearings. Anyone got any idea what sizes I'd need? I'm going to email tarty tomorrow, but just thought id post this up just in case Also, just wondering how the best way to get old bearing outer shells out of a hub, apart from a dremel as i don't have one . Sure At least a few of you must have had this problem.

i was going to point that out.....

I agree...looks mint, and geo looks pretty noice as well

Wrong section dude.... Could be that the o-ring has perished somehow and needs replacing, or the lever body has a scratched bore and will need replacing.