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Muel

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Everything posted by Muel

  1. I have yellow on a grind, they're not too shabby.
  2. White are for smooth, Yellow are for a grind and red aren't made any more.
  3. Undo the stem bolts and turn the bar and stem round on the fork, which will turn the topcap, which should hopefully loosen the topcap bolt enough for the allen keey to find some purchase on the head of the bolt.
  4. If you're talking Mod I'd get Lites, they're pretty stiff and strong a fairly light. If you need really stiff and strong forks, I'd get Trialtech.
  5. Baggy jeans, motorbike boots. Crying out for a string wife beater though.
  6. Rate, hear we go. Not sure about the arc on the inside corner but I couldn't be arsed working out the dimensions for it to be an S shape, so for now you'll have to imagine. It actually has an M5 thread so you can use a standard topcap and an M18x1.0 thread so you can use the trialtech topcap thing aswell. You simply screw it into the steerer, then put your stem on it part way and use that to tighten it into the steerer, then drop your stem all the way. I wouldn't use this with any less then 50% of the stems clamp on the actual steerer though, might not offer enough stiffness/stregnth. And if you had any issues such as the steerer tube snapping just below the stem, your warrenty would undoubtably be void. EDIT: Dimensions are very rough at the moment because I can't remember where exactly to measure threads from, so if anyone decides to make it up or something similar, don't take my dimensions as read.
  7. I'm not trying to make it very light, just keep the rotational weight down! Also, I'm not a weak old man so I don't need a bike that weighs less than 10kg. My kot was actually just under 10kg, this will be about 10.5kg if I get a rear tyre the same weight as the rubber queen. (+ about 300g for the frame and 200g for some decent forks). EDIT: Ed, you want this rubber queen or nay? Just wondering whether to make a topic.
  8. Looks sweet, I'd spray the bars and rear brake white though, then I reckon it's bring out the colour of the hubs a lot better. Very smart!
  9. I'll Cad my idea up a bit later, unfortunately the dude I want to buy the forks from isn't replying to PMs, and the other dude I wanted to buy some other forks from isn't selling now. Which is f**king immense. I have a slightly different idea in mine now, but should work well.
  10. Muel

    T-f Video Comp !

    I'm liking the team idea! But, Rainbird gets to divide everyone up and put the teams together, to get a spread of skills, riding styles, experience etc.
  11. Meh, the Minion is £15 and I prefer minions anyway. Just a shame that the front tread one isn't in stock because I'd rather have one of them.
  12. I'm going to have to say I'm out for now aswell, don't think I'll be riding by then and I'm just not riding enough at the moment to warrent having it. I also can't do a video, and my ridings gone so far downhill I wouldn't be giving it a decent test anyway.
  13. Nah Larsons a bit too slick for my liking i'm afraid Ed, I'll be up for selling the rubber queen though? I'll have a look for them, hopefully they'll be nice and cheap. Bit expensive to be honest Adam, but I have noticed they have single ply minions in a 2.35 tread. Think I'll just get one of them seeing as they're £15 at the moment. Would one of those Kendas fit though? the 2.35 single ply version is very light indeed, but the dual ply version is very heavy indeed, so I don't know which would be best?
  14. I got my Simtra through the post today, and just thought I'd stick my back wheel in too see what it looked like with orange rims. (Wank, they're getting stripped back to silver). Turns out my tyre is too big, so I need a new one. I have a 47mm rim, what will fit? Looking to keep the weight down as much as I can if possible, but cost is more important, cheap as possible please! Oh and single ply, can't stand dual ply tyres. Cheers!
  15. Sounds like she's pumped them enough to push some air down into the hose aswell Kieran. Did you push the pistons all the way back into the caliper? It might push the air bubbles all the way back into the reseviour. If not it'll need bleeding, which is really easy, catch me on MSN if you want a hand or theres a thing in the wiki. It's Dot 5.1 in there in case you needed to get some. (Unless you've already rebled it with something else).
  16. Yeh, because you designed them... Looks good mate, time to get riding it now.
  17. Errm, I've completely got the wrong end of the stick here, I took it to mean he was riding right foot foward but had to switch when backhopping... I also ride left foot foward and I'm right footed. :$ EDIT: Was getting confused with this guy: http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....howtopic=139439
  18. Post threads with Validation as a topic and you won't get validated. Simple enough for you? And no, they're not different really in this instance.
  19. Muel

    T-f Video Comp !

    Creative Low has been done, we had the Curb comp for years on end and it got kinda boring... Everyone just either gapped to it or went round in circles.
  20. That must be annoying when you're doing lines or riding natural then!
  21. Thats the way I feel, the whole straight edge thing is just another attention grabbing thing if you ask me... I've never smoked, never taken drugs and don't get drunk any more. I still drink though because I like alchohol too much.
  22. Errr, yes it's true actually, if you look at any other riders if they're left foot foward like me, then they ride with the left foot pointing fowards...
  23. If you're right footed, you should ride with the right foot foward all the time really.
  24. Muel

    T-f Video Comp !

    I'd do it if it was no hopping on the spot/correction hops... So if you want to gap, you have to hop up the the back wheel then go straight away.
  25. Muel

    T-f Video Comp !

    What about taps? EDIT: To back obviously.
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