Muel

Just took some new pics today when I was getting some of my Echo ready for sale, so I thought I'd stick them up.

I use this stuff called Silkoline Pro Cool. It's a coolant designed for motorbike engines, so it's designed not to corrode aluminium or eat through seals. It's slightly heavier to pull than water, but not a fat lot, and it's safe down to -32 degress according to the bottle! A litre of it is like £6-7 aswell so it will do about 15 brakes I reckon. I've done 2 recently and used about 100-150ml, loads left in the pot I put under the drain tube on the lever.

I thought there was an issue with the chain eating into the frame? That might have been the first Neons though.

When I first got a trials bike, I got blisters on both my lever fingers. (I had 06 HS33s though). But still, the skin does thicken up after a while, just keep riding unless they go really red/pink then give them a break.

Is this list alright with everyone? I'd much rather have it some time between the beginning of May and the end of August as I'm going to uni in september and want the spare time to give it a good thrashing! If no-ones got any objections of course, I just think I won't have any time when I go to uni. For the last 3/4 weeks I've only ridden about 6 days because we're getting busy at college, and I'd prefer to have time to play with specs and bar/stem positions and heights and give it a proper review!

They use official magura barbs, I meant that it just must have been a dodgy barb. Softer metal? They're made of steel and the slave is aluminium, if the barb itself didn't have any faults it would take the threads out of the piston or crack it before it snapped. Best of luck getting it out anyway, if the allen key doesn't work you could try a left hand drill bit if you can find one. EDIT: They're not even the official bleed barbs with the shitty short thread, they're the proper crossover ones with the longer thread so it was almost definately a dud one.

It was a great ride, I reckon there was 4/5 inches of snow on some of the rocks in the quarry.

I'm not certain, but I'm pretty sure that the Heatsink bleed kits use the same fittings as the standard maggy bleed kit. They might even use the barbs normally used for crossovers. Either way it's not Heatsinks bleed kit that's shitty, it'll just be the barb.

Didn't you have trouble getting yours warrentied by TUK a while back?

Riding in the snow got them really good today, by the end of the ride they were pretty loud and holding much better, really happy with them! I don't think they're totally worn in yet from looking at them, but they're more than good enough for me now. My grind isn't amazing either, it's medium but it's gone blunt, but they still work really well, they just needed to wear in.

Shot Blasting doesn't work that well on powder coating from my experience. You can burn it with a blow torch I believe, or use a grinder with a sanding disc?

I've had the whole week off, yay!

Yeh Danny K said that, but they don't come in orange and they're dead heavy.

Doesn't work for me.

Serious question, how can you compare them? You've probably changed the frame, rim, grind and brake since then. There are people on here that have taken the old CRMs out having worked perfectly, put the new ones in and they've just disintegrated.

Wrap a chain round the sprocket, put the chain in a vice and lamp it up, then put a big bar on the crank arm and it should undo easily enough.

They're nothing like as tight as the Heatsinks, still easily as secure as powerpads backings so no issues, just means they've got more float! They are only 6mm thick though, so you might have to file the prongs down on your slaves, but this just means that you can set the slaves about 4mm further in so it makes it harder to catch your ankles. Pads are STILL wearing in, the wear rate is insane! They're still not worn to the contour of the rim, on the lower corner I can slip a piece of paper underneath on both pads, but they're getting there. Getting really good now aswell. On a rim that holds a grind better than an Atomz/Try-All they'd be amazing. They're still good on my Atomz rim, it's just the grind goes blunt after a few rides so they stop working as well.

Sounds good Dave, which colours are Pro and Expert? I can never remember haha. I'll do my best to make it to at least one of them, havn't seen you guys for months haha.

They're not as strong as most Deng frames, but they're not weak. I've had mine for about 6 months and it's fine. Very flexy though, the rear triangle is really flexy. Even when I had a disc I had to use a booster, I could definately tell the difference when I took it off. I really like mine, but I wouldn't buy one again. They're brilliant frames but theres better around these days.

I think whats Adam Griffin's getting at is your complete lack of ability to admit when you're wrong! Some of the most experienced riders in the UK have told you that you're wrong, for whatever reason your pads compound changed. Whether this is because the company you used supplied dodgy material, or the glue you used did something to them, or somehow they're fakes, but for whatever reason the newer CRMs are NOT the same as the old ones.

I wouldn't, if you take it out to M6 it can be a pain in the arse in future. You've got to file the mounts out and if you run a booster, you've got to somehow get bigger spacers and file the booster out. It can be done, but helicoiling works better if you ask me.

Ebay Item: 190283710603 I'd do incredibly evil things to this Clio!

So why is there such a big difference in the new and old pads? New ones being no-where near as good. They might be 70A or whatever, but they can still have completely different characteristics.

It's not worth it, they offer a half price replacement on broken frames that have been damaged due to a manufacturing failure, not due to be assembling badly. Just get it helicoiled if it goes.

Or a 15. 15:12? Yes please.