LiamWood!

The coupes still for sale, rot free.

Really no point doing anything to a B series unless you boost it. You spend a fortune for 10hp.

K20 Ek with a built gearbox. I wish I did instead of boost.

Heavy, use far too much fuel for what little performance you get and they sound a bit meh.

Think of all the money to buy my civic with lol.

Either that or drop me a text mate.

Could do you the coupe Sam.

You would be better having it anodised in neo-chrome.

Stop driving it until you have a qualified competent person look at it?

To be honest, I haven't had a proper chance to give it the full beans. The build was completed at the back end of November so the roads were just dam/wet/cold/shit 100% of the time. Then after 2500 miles my stage 2 clutch shit its arse out so it's been sat since February broken.

Yeh it's a 16g I think, only 12psi of boost. It's a stock block too. I gained a bit more torque by having adjustable cam pullys.

I don't think your a cock at all, yours does have a broader power range. Mine is all 4k rpm onwards (after vtec kicks in yo) but I have a 4.7 final drive in my gear box, when I change gear it's never below 6.5k rpm so I'm never off peak torque and power. It's just like all Honda motors, I have nothing below 4k or vtec on the non boosted ones. My turbo is a tdo5 which isn't too big, the problem I have is if i had a smaller turbo, it would be running out of puff at the top end which is how you drive a fast Honda. Also that graph is WHP, I'm sure a graph from a roller dyno would look different ish?

Like I thought then, I'm used to seeing graphs from vtec engines.

My turbo'd civic doesn't seem to drop off as early as that though, how big is the turbo?

Doesn't the power start dropping off a bit soon? It could just be me though with having a 8.5k rev limit.

Not that kind of infection.

Seem to have contracted the same viral infection as the missus, deep joy.

I will answer this for you, first of all what year is it? 126k isn't mega miles for them as long as they have been serviced regularly. Make sure the oil is clean and still golden Things to look for is, rattles from the engine, could indicte a worn chain/tensioner. Blue smoke from the exhaust on over run and hard acceleration, could be valve stem seals or rings Check for play in the steering, if it's been lowered previously without rack spacers it can bollocks the steering racks Older preface lifts are starting to show rust on the rear arches but it's only been a small number Make sure the gears select ok, if it struggles with reverse the clutch could be on its way out. Also check for whines and crunches from all the gears, usually 2nd and 4th, if you test drive it, show the gear lever who's boss and you will feel a small crunch if the synchros a worn. Then just general 2nd hand car checks.

You mentioned it twice there Bing, she's a woman.

He returns....

Would Cadwell or Blyton be too expensive for the day?

f**k you illnesses, I thought is finally got rid of my cold. Now it's back with a vengeance!

New oil cooler set up came in the post today to add insult to injury!

It's 300 foot pounds of torque currently. I'm not sure how it's failed to be honest, there was some horrible clunky banging noises last night, now as soon as you lift the pedal 5mm it's jerking forward and the clutch just feels horrible. I'm going to have to pull the boot off the clutch fork and have a look inside the bell housing. It's also still full of fresh clean fluid too.

It's an RPC stage 2. I doubt they would warranty it to be honest, I will see if I can dig out the receipt.