Revolver

Kinda, I was looking at a raleigh on ebay that would've done, might've cost me £60, something like that, but I reckon to get that how I want would cost about the same and be less fun. For example, if I'd've bought the tyres on this for that raleigh, ones that I hope will make it quicker for getting around, it would've cost more than what I've spent on this so far. It's not gonna cost much more anyway, I've got a 26" front wheel knocking around, a hope XC hub that's going unused, and those bars. Funnily enough I woke up really early to win that raleigh, it was due to end at like 9:30 in the morning, and at 9:15 I got the phonecall about this.

Keep an eye out on the news, and if you see any indian flags where it's meant to be a libyan rebel flag, that tells you who's bullshitting.

Casualjoe: bringing new meaning to taking advantage of a girl who's legless.

On my computer that man is chomping that popcorn at a serious speed.

Just wanted to have a place where I could make a sort of diary of this project. Comment if you want. So, initial update: So on wednesday I got an early phone call from a friend, who found this knocking around in the skip at his work. I'd mentioned I was after a dirt cheap bike I could use to get to work on - what could be cheaper than free? So I rolled down in my car and picked it up. It wasn't in rideable condition, as the pictures show. You can see that the tyres have seriously corroded, they were stuck to the rim in places. The wheels are tarnished and untrue, the seat is shite. I stripped it down and found that pretty much all the things you'd hope weren't seized, weren't seized, which is a relief. I'm yet to check the pedals but new cranks won't be hard to source. I rolled down to halfords to pick up some essentials - new tyres, tubes, cables, and a chain. I'd've fitted them yesterday had I not lost one of the headset bearings. I went to a couple of LBS and neither of them had one, 1" threaded steerer. I reckon in the future if I get a 1 1/8" headtube made or scavenged from another bike that will be the best solution. Update #2 - Fitting the tyres, bars, seat: Pissing it down with rain, isn't it? Luckily the headset I bought on wednesday came today, from JE James cycles, who even sent a text saying roughly when it would turn up! I decided to go and fit some of the new bits, despite that. I managed to fit myself in the shed, where I first tackled the headset. The race wouldn't go on the forks, so I split it, to find it didn't sit in the headset properly. The old race, however, fits both perfectly. I found out my BMX seatpost fits, which is cool, so I'm borrowing that for the time being. Tempted to get a pivotal setup for it, lol. We'll see. I fit my spare handlebars. A select few members on this forum know them as the deadest feeling bars they've ever used, but they'll probably be alright on this. I'll fit the chain when I get some gear cables. I'm going to fish in my spare pars box for spare brake levers. I have a shifter but it's 8 speed compared to this bike's 5 speed, so I may well lock it out until I sort a new rear wheel. Just a little side note, it's not staying those colours. I'll get round to it later but I've already got the paint...

That old guy is on a pimp bike...

Proving that most WOW players are phenomenally sad.

Metal and fire.

Lines!

Because they can't run away, rite?

Probably the rubber, which is less dense, will contract first. That would make sense! But in an old lever where the piston has seized it might not contract enough. Get some bleed pipe or an old bit of hose, cram it in a pump, foot pump will do, and use that now, whilst it's cold.

So by the inner two not working, how do you mean? It should be obvious if it doesn't fit - the derallieur won't sit over the ring at maximum extension.

RIP Jon Mack?

Lets post videos of actual 22 inch riding in here instead of riding on 20 inch and saying 'how much better would it be on 22 inch?' because that's pretty pointless.

Would've thought it needs to be full of water for that to work.

Bet 24" would've been better...

Pro tip from the guys at onza - use a spoke, poke it out through the bleed hole.

Lol, when I saw that advert, I wanted to go play the guitar whilst riding a bike, not buy lucozade.

But then how can you tell the difference between who did it?

I knew it! This is my favourite advert currently.

DMR frames are usually steel so you can have that crack fixed.

This sounds good! However, as we all know, it takes a long time for anything new to filter into trials - think external BBs, hollow through-axles...

You might be lucky to get one if you put up a wanted topic. Tarty used to have them in, but they've been cleaned off the site. Shows you how often Todge makes them. Which is, incidentally, who makes them, and who you might be worth getting in touch with about them.

You may as well fix what you've got, you'll end up with a better bike then. I dunno what spec your mod is, but you could have a bike with an entry level spec and a pimp rear wheel, or a completely entry level phase. If you can still get that money, use the extra £70 on a freewheel.

If you're not spending much, then you'd end up with a full sus frame that would absorb power when you put it down, which would be a nuisance for getting to work. Hardtail all the way, mang.