Henrik Y

That was a dirty one. Nice seat

It's been snow here for about 3 months and now it's about 0,5m so there's not much trials riding right now and will probably not be until end of april or beginning of may. But you'll have to appreciate the best winter in about 20 years. And -10°C is quite hot for a "Viking" especially when walking up the mountain in deep snow

I would like to have that one My GU weights almost 12kg so I guess it would be a big difference.

Looks good! I vote for keeping the susp fork and maybe just lowering it a little. I'm looking forward to see some new videos when you ride it. It's the UK riders that are weird they are the only ones riding with the rear left and front right on bicycles. Rest of the world does the other.

Nice, some of the moves was really smutt. I noticed the "skate stoppers" at 2:25 and came to think of, what if they would try to stop us trials riders ?!? But obstacles is our thing so that would be funny as long as there's not spike strips

Nice riding, and you're lucky to have that "mountain" to ride in. Påminner om min första vinter på en trial cykel, hade kört i ca 5-6 månader också. Då hade vi turen att få vara i ett gammalt magasin och köra. Men inte nu längre så nu får man hålla sig till snowboard i stället.

as usual. But the riding was good but it would have been much better if he combined the street style with trial.

I had the same problem. Tried wood blocks but that just got into toothpicks. I took the thickest chain that I had and wrapped it around the sprocket and clamped it in the vice as shown in earlier post. Then I put a larger nail trough the chain on the other side to stop it from slipping. Then I had a friend to hold the workbench and a 2m long iron pipe on the crank. My weight wasn't enough so I had to jump and pull it and almost cracked the bench. Steady workbench with a large vice and much force is what you need. But if you are lucky it may go easier then it did for me, I didn't grease it when screwing it on

I guess that you've been able to get the wheel of the frame so then it shouldn't be any problem to take the hub apart and get the axle out.

Don't misunderstand me please! What I meant with Danny was when you see a trial video and are new to trials and have a normal MTB then a 360 up a 10step stair and double tail whips are not very inspiring(in that way that you will go out and practice on that particular thing) because it's so "far away" but Ryan's riding feels possible to learn. He shows the basics but it's still advance and the beginner feels that it's possible to learn and can go out and practise it. But as a beginner there's no way you can start with trying a 360 up a 10step stair or double tail whip. So Damon and Danny(just for example because almost everyone knows who they are) are awesome riders that shows the extreme end of the sport when Ryan also takes it to the beginners level. That was my comparison.

If you have clamped the other end of the axle in the vice and the axle still turns with the bolt stuck then it must be broken.

Ryan was one of the first trials rider I saw and as said earlier in this thread I could relate more to him because of the bike was more like mine and his riding is technical skill on "normal" bike, not extreme power jumps on a weird trials bike that you've never seen before. Ryan is not the best at trials but he is the best to make it look easy and to look like mountainbiking. It's his own style of riding that I've only seen 1 other person ride like and I would like to learn it myself. May be not awesome but inspiring and makes me want to buy a Norco. Edit: This is the bike that I started to ride trials with. And who do you think I would look at? Ryan because what he did seem to be possible to do on this bike compared to Damon W and Danny M.

This may not have been a success but you have to try new weird things to evolve and make new great things. From 1000 tries 999 may fail but 1 is a success. About the brake. It would give great breaking power but as someone said, if you bend the rim so it starts to wobble then it's not very good.

I ride right foot forward. The first few month riding with my Onza T-bird I sidhoped to the right. But when I got a 26" I started to jump on the left side. I jump almost 110cm to the left side and about half of that to the right. But I've never practised on the right side so I don't think it's very difficult to learn it but you'll have to take your time doing it. Mostly when I ride I do the fun things, not what I need to practise at. But riding is for fun and not a must but with a little extra work on that and you'll get more options later and that will make it more fun. A friend of mine rides left foot forward but jumps to the left like me and he jumps around +120cm I think. He thinks the right side feels a little weird but jumps about 100cm on that side too. So the best would be if you learn both sides.

I saw this guy on youtube and he is about 50 I think he said in one of the videos.

I've tried a few Monty riser but I don't like them at all. I have riser on my 24" and I'm not really happy with it. I've tried an other Monty raiser on my GU 26" and not satisfied so I have Echo flat bars on both my 26" and 20" trial. As you see there's different opinions on this so you'll have to try for your self to know what you like.

I have 18:15 with 170mm cranks(26" bike) and that feels good. I've tried 18:16 on my 24" and that got way to light, feels good to hold and get up on the rear wheel but got no power for gaping and pedal-up. 18:14 was a little heavy, the whole bike felt heavier and I could get the power out in the wheel. I think 18:15 would be best for normal trials.

How the f... did he do that without slipping? But, Russia is a little colder so in some conditions the snow can be sharp. But the gap to front wheel was very impressive.

You can't just switch side with the pedals because you will unscrew the sprocket. It has to be threaded the opposite way. From what I could see on the pics of the trialtech hub both sides was threaded the same way and a sprocket on the left side will unscrew it self if you not pedal backwards.

Forgot to mention about the pads. The disk may be easy just to wipe of but the pads isn't. You may have to run down a long slope with the brake hold in to get it up to heat and wear it off. But with heat you get full grip instantly afterwards. They don't have to glow, about 300°C is enough and stove works fine.

When it's already going I can put in a good word for tarty. They did actually "mess up" one time for me. First DHL switched it with an other package so it got delayed. And I had 2 addresses registered at tarty and they also switched it. But they tracked it for me and sorted it out and I got well compensated for it. They know how to keep their customers. Fast response and good contact on mail is worth much too. From what I've read about t-uk I will not go there to save just a few £.

Tried it with an half crappy disk and will never do it again. It got so bad that a V-brake with rubber bands instead of wire would have been better. I grinded it with a angle grinder, and then I took a beltsander and got it smooth again and then I got some brake power back but it was wobbly and still crap. If you get something like oil, wax or something like that on the disk then burn it. And then use brake cleaner. Don't try to sand or polish it. I don't know how the larger holes affects the braking power but I think no holes at all and a smooth contact surface is the best for trials. Large holes are for cooling because a hot disk = less braking power. In trials you only use the brake for short and hard braking. But like downhill you brake for a long time and build up the heat and need more cooling so there you need more holes and even doubble walled disks with inside ventilation. I'm not a brake tech specialist but that's what I think based on my own experience.

Would be nice to see some pics on it. The fork on my FS bike is a little to long but I think my friend has one that's a little shorter lying around that I could try. But I sidehop about 60cm with my FS so I don't think I would be any bigger problems for street trial riding.

Has anyone tried a suspension fork with an Inspired frame? Which fork would be the best choice? I was thinking about make it more suitable for street riding. Like Jeff Lenosky's style of riding. There's not so many Inspired frames out there so... but any ideas? And btw does anyone know where I can get a cassette that fits hope pro2 hubs with 18t-13t? I've been thinking about getting a larger(9speed) cassette and cut of the larger sprockets but don't know if the cassette will fall apart.

I spent all my money and a little more on one of each 26" Old GU 24" Inspired 20" Echo lite Edit: 20" Unicycle, Nimbus trial. And also. 29" Crescent racer 26" Kona Dawg