sayshell

That was the best trials vid I have seen maybe ever. Big riding, lines, style, good editing, what more could you ask for. Mindblowingly awesome! My favorite line was that static huge fufanu gap onto the palette. That looked physically impossible.

I have a bad problem with my wrist and bmxes hurt it more than anything. A mod is the only kind of bike I can still ride. That is the current reason but the other reason is a mod feels way better to me. Its softer when you land things, the brakes work a lot better, I like wide tires, I feel more stable with a big cockpit, its way lighter (18.9917lbs), longer geo makes my back not hurt, bmx bars don't come in 11 degree upsweep and I need lots up upsweep or my wrist will hurt too much to ride, and also I am just way better on a mod. I tried bmxing for 2 yearsish and after 2 years I ended up switching back. My friend chad (the guy in the pics) likes my bike more than his and wants to get a mod or a bmx with mod geo now. You have to try my bike to understand really. I told him a bmx with mod geo is better unless I can get someone to make a custom frame, because currently mod frames are 15% too weak but my because simple seems to be holding ok. The better question is why I stopped riding trials on a trials bike. I started as a pure trials rider and progressively got more streety. The reasons why are -trials is too dangerous. I have never come close to injuring my self street riding, but I almost broke my face, a rib, and got a bad scar for my life riding trials. If you are in a rock garden and are just stalling and loose balance you fall and land on some jagged rock and get seriously injured. -trials is too hard to find. There are more streety style spots where I live, and I can't goto downtown on a daily basis its 20km from my house. -I have no one to ride trials with all my friends are street mtnbikers or bmxers -I physically can't ride trials anymore. Pedal kicks or consistent pogoing hurt my wrist too much and I don't want to do just side hops. since it is basically impossible to ride trials for me now I made my bike trials unequipped, which means I don't really need a front brake or bash plate anymore. I have been riding 7 years now and am extremely open minded about bike set up I have tried virtually every type of bike possible from mods with suspension, to stock bikes with mod stems. and after trying everything you just pick what you like best. Sorry for the really long explanation XD

yeah. The inspired was good but I like mods more. Riding wise the video is dramatically better but video wise it won't be too spectacular. I didn't have enough time to put a lot of work in the filming. Chad is pretty nuts this year he will have an awesome part as well. I will make a trailer sometime I guess.

We are down to 2 riders this year, but our production will be done september 1st. Here are some clips of me and Chad taken from the video. They aren't the highest quality pictures because they are video stills, but I figured I would rather just use pictures than making a trailer. This year it will be a high def production.

Side hops are repetitive because their is no variation in them. If you side hop up the highest ledge vs side hopping onto a skinny or over a bar or whatever then their is more variation and its interesting. A lot of the times I see someone side hop the highest ledge they can then move to a different ledge of equal height. Danny mac is not a bmxer at all. Ok find me a single video of a bmxer tailtapping down a 10 set. Their was maybe 2 lines in his video a bmxer could have done. Just because part of his line has a bmx move in it like a 360 the whole line also includes stuff like big hooks or pedal kicks which isn't bmx. I would rather see him hook a big ledge then 360 a big stairs, as opposed to just hooking a ledge and doing nothing after. Point is about 5% of his riding a bmxer could do on a regular bmx and 85% a trials rider could do on a regular trials bike so its trials.

well what I find is for most anything a medium weight tube works, the only way they pop is if you bottom out the tire so hard to the point where you are denting the rim, but in this case dh tubes even pop sometimes, so I think medium weight are usually good enough.

actually its not just how smooth you are. four things effect this bike wise... -tire -tube -rim -psi (of course) First off running a wider rear rim reduces pinch flats dramatically. consider using the onza 128H rim its the widest rim out there, you will be surprised a couple mm goes a long way second off for tire its been my experience that every product ever made by monty is defective though I never used the monty tire its lighter than every other type by a lot, my creepy crawler was about 3 to 4 times more puncture resistant than my echo tire. The material, and thickness, and stiffness of the tire effects it a lot. third consider cheng shin tubes or a medium weight tube. They are only 50 grams heavier than a regular tube but about 2X more puncture resistant, while the super heavy duty tubes aren't much more puncture resistant than a mediunm weight tube but dramatically heavier. Rider wise... -you could loose body mass this is the only one I could recommend if you are heavy because usually you can loose mass and maintain the same strength to weight ratio you have. -you could be smooth all the time (worst solution in my opinion as it restricts your progression dramatically and limits the things you can try) -you can do more calculated gaps. Example a 7 foot gap onto a round rock won't pop your tire so you can hit it rough, but a landing onto a sharp corner like a 90 degree street ledge will. In my opinion do the bike solutions, you shouldn't have to not try stuff just cause your afraid of damaging your bike. Once you can't progress your riding any more worry about getting smooth and more or less nobody stops progressing even pros.

nyet!!! My informant was correct, I contacted tarty and the neons and tryall have more adjustment than normal ones. Even if its only a couple mm thats enough.

yes there is a sprung chain tensioner specifically made for mods. here it is http://labs.yesspro.com/products/etr-horizontal I have used this for 2 years, yes it works, yes its invincible. Read this thread I made about it this is exactly what you are looking for. http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....p;#entry1927039

Certain moves put more stress on bars than others. I rode trialtechs for about 5 months with no problem at all I always land 2 wheels at the same time which doubles the stress of the bars but I only weigh 150lbs (70kgish) . If you look at the weight of the bars they are heavy for their size so I would guess they are stronger than most bars. Your a smart man though, most parts can snap while your riding and you will be safe, but if your bars snap you will pound your chest into your stem and get serious injuries. I think steel might be a better material for bars, cause then you get warning signs before they snap but at the same time I haven't broken a bar set in 5 years and I was running montys so I think bars are strong enough as is that I am happy with aluminum.

no one is understanding the question, I guess its confusing by vertical I mean higher up on the seatstay not furthur away from the frame. I think this is the answer I am looking for, they do look more adjustable thanks! My chain tension is so perfect now I am not running a chain tensioner either, so I really don't want to change anything.

The situation... I got my new frame and the gear ratio is perfect and chain tension is utterly perfect but the wheel is slammed as far in on the dropouts as possible and the brakes are tilted up a lot to compensate for this reducing power a fair bit. Solutions?? I was wondering is their a magura mount like the tensile ones that offset up and down instead of left and right? I am already running the mounts as far up as they go and its not enough. I only need to get them about 3mm higher. Any ideas? (aside from adding slack to my chain)

almost there man! I believe danny mac holds it at 48" your clipping the bar though with your rear wheel. Danny mac doesn't do normal bunnyhops though. He does a 90 over the bar so its kind of like a combination of a bunnyhop and side hop. However when you actually look up highest bunny hop its a guy doing a side hop and its like 56" so their is no official specific record for bunny hop their is just 1 general record for getting over a bar on a bike any way you can.

Did you know v!z makes 36 hole mod rims? You can get them in any colour too. They are very tough much stronger than the echo rim I had. I just run a profile hub with a viz rim. What I would have really liked to see more was the echo freehub improved. Everything on that hub worked perfect except the engagement and its lighter and dramatically cheaper than a profile or king. Maybe it could be fixed by adding more pawls or something.

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getting hs-33s mounted is the main problem. I also prefer the wide rear wheel. What it comes down to is that feeling of control. I once had a bmx rear wheel on my mod but I felt a lot less stable. The geo difference from a bmx and mod is just milimeters. The main thing is just bmxes have shorter top tubes but you can buy long bmxes. What I have always wanted for a bike is a cross between a mountain bike and bmx. Bmx in the sense you can spin well and its light, mountain bike in the sense it has good control feels safe and is soft when you land. I think my current bike is that it feels perfect to me all the parts on my build have lasted a long time its just I either have to have a bad geo frame or a weak one. GRRR

More rise in the bars can effect upsweep and backsweep ratios when you tilt them but they feel exactly the same as the trialtechs with 1 extra spacer on your headset. The rise difference between the 2 bars is too insignificant to effect the upsweep and backsweep ratios.

simple... The trialtech bars cost a lot less. The viz bars are lighter and have more rise. If you don't want the rise than the trialtech bars would work fine. They are both really strong though. + trialtech has a good reputation where as viz its hit and miss some of their stuff is awesome some of their stuff is trash.

Aluminum works fine. i rode an aluminum frame for 2 years (my toxsin) and never had a problem with it. It was a fair bit heavier than my bionic though. i agree how you build the frame matters more. The bionic is built well in the rear end ( I dissected the frame) but the front end the tubing is really thin especially where it broke because it is a trials specific frame and 180ing or 360ing it puts stress on it in a direction that normally isn't designed for trials. You can always make an aluminum tube as strong as a steel tube by making it thick, the only thing is sometimes a tube has to become so thick that it weighs more than steel in which case steel is more appropriate. For frames I think if you add a billion gussets and have butted tubing its about equal in strength and weight to steel. I have a slight preference towards aluminum because it flexes more which saves my left wrist a lot of pain, but if I could get a decent weight steel frame with hs-33 mounts I would be happpy too. My fork is aluminum and I have had that 2 years as well and it probably takes more of a beating than my frame from when I screw up a spin trick.

thank you! That is the best answer possible. Just 1 last question, your sure that your information is correct?

what sus fork? its ridgid. It broke past the gusset so the flaw in the frame design is either the type of aluminum is too weak or the tubing needs to be butted in that area, cause the welds seem to be intact fine.

So I snapped my bionic b2r after about 2-3 months of riding on it. I broke it 360ing a 3 set and I landed it perfectly to so I imagine it was caused by previous fatigue. Anyways I have come to a problem that their is no 20" street frames. Danny mac rides a trials frame and can do 20 foot drops and all kinda of huge spins and not have his frame snap. The main problem is geometry. I rode a toxsin 20.1 for 2 years and it works fine strength wise but the geo gave me a permanent wrist injury and its way to short. I am looking for something with 1000mm wb and 350 chainstays. the only other option I can find is zhi frames which are the same as bionic as its the same company and the because simple frame. Anyone have any suggestions? my bionic b2r is the best feeling bike I have ever ridden I just want a stronger version of the frame. The frame I am looking at is the onza limey. Does anyone know anything about this frame and if its a good choice? That area of the frame its broken in looks much stronger. I always break frames there cause I do 180s lots.

I just snapped my bionic b2r frame. I don't know what its made of but I would guess 6061 t6 aluminum. My question is what are the trade offs of all the different aluminum types? What is the pros and cons of 7075 7005 6061 I just want to know what the pros and cons are, I know how they are made and everything, I just want to know what the trade offs are. I notice the inspired is made of 7005 aluminum and danny mac can 360 it off a 16 set, where as I just broke my frame 360ing off a 3 set. So what I am wondering specifically is durability and how the strength is different in each.

I had one with suspension for a bit. It rode ok but finding a fork is hard. It will either be 90lbs heavy or not stiff enough. Suspension companies only make forks for dh or xc, so finding a stiff lightweight fork is very hard to find but really easy to build. You will most likely have to modify a fork.