sayshell

pretty much nothing. A headset you need a hammer and a block of wood just whack it in evenly. Once the cups are 85% in or more you can just ride your bike and it will push them in the rest of the way. A headset press is the biggest waste of money ever unless you run a bike shop a 2X4 will do the exact same job but just takes a lot longer. For the bottom bracket you will need the crank tool which you said you have, and a chain breaker to install the chain unless the chain is already the right amount of links in which case you can install the chain with a hammer. You can actually build a chaintool for 0$ I made one and it works perfectly its just easier to use a chain tool so I use that. I used pedal kleets and a pliars and then just hammer out the pins. Other than that you need allen wrenches. For the bottom bracket threads I recommend greesing them I stripped it once removing the cups, just use a bit use any greese it doesn't matter, even vaseline or skin lotion will work haven't had the problem since.

thats what i figured but it wouldn't be too loose and slip or anything right?

people are ignoring the point. Ok i will explain this better. The alumium portion of the crank would be basically integrated with the steel portion as opposed to the aluminum portion being a relatively snug fit on the steel portion. You would never have to remove the steel insert from the crank and the pressed fit would spread stress out as evenly as possible as opposed to a fit like on a normal bottom bracket in which it is nessacary to remove the crankarm and install it. The steel insert would never warp because steel is really tough, and the alumium/steel contact point would never warp because it has a larger area of contact and is a perfect fit. The point is tight fits are much stronger than loose fits and you can not have a EXTREMELY tight fit on a regular crankarm because it would be impossible to install onto a bottom bracket or remove.

I run bmx cranks and want to run a 20t bmx sproket on the front. Tree makes one in spline drive so itll work perfectly but the problem is I am not sure if a 1/8" chain will work on it. I am 95% sure it will because rear cogs are all 3/32" and 1/8" chains work on them but does anyone know if this will not work? The chain I run is a kmc z50hx 1/8"

I had a monty frame and bars. both snapped. Their stuff isn't safe. I broke their bars bunnyhopping up a curb literally. Crazy vid man. I talked to adam on tarty he says echo forged are the strongest.

for people who are hacks and heavy. You are probably a very smooth rider.

So here is my idea I think it would result in the strongest cranks ever that last 200 years. What you do is you make the isis mount hole on the crankarm a couple mm bigger than a normal one. Than you put a steel isis shaped star which reduces it to the size of a normal isis spindle. The star would fit into the crankarm directionally with one end having a cap so it can only move one way and the crankarm bolt would stop it from moving the other. The star would be a precise fit that takes an extreme amount of force to hammer in. This would result in immortal cranks I think with almost no weight penalty. Why is this better? simple The connection between the aluminum crank and insert would now be ridiculously tight and hammered in with a billion pounds of force so the aluminum/steel contact point would not warp or develop play, and the crankarm fit with the steel/isis spindle connection would be loose enough that you could still remove the crankarm. This would also spread the stress out better on the crank making it less likely to snap or crack near the spindle connection which is where cranks seem to always break because the aluminum portion of the connection point is a much larger area thus distributing stress out more evenly. To make this crank would also be super easy with all the cnc machining these days so it would sell for cheap. Can anyone find a loophole in my idea? I thought it though a fair bit and can't find a flaw.

yeah its ironic that people complain that he does the same style. I am 100% sure if he changed his style completely and did nothing but grinds people would just say his old style was good. Point is on a forum you can't win if the guy wants to give you a negative review it doesn't matter if you bunnhop triple back flip up a 20 set. Back to the point I think this video would be better if i didn't bike. The bike is too distracting for me and I just ignore the music and ideas of the video so I didn't enjoy it and can only give a biased review. As for watching danny mac riding i was just like I dont wanna see people running id rather just watch a pure riding video.

that is my new favorite mod video. I can't belive you did all that in 3 weeks. So awesome! I really like your style.

From what I know bionic made 3 versions of the "R" series b2r, b4r, and b5r The stats were the b2r is the stiffest, and lightest, and b4r is the heaviest,, and flexes the most. The b5r is in the middle. The geo is great although on all of them. Really ergonomic so I think as long as your not extremely tall you will like it. I have owned the b2r and b5r. Out of those two I like the b2r a lot more its an entire 50 grams lighter!!! The geo is right in the middle between street and trials so you can still bunny hop and manuel but gap at the same time. Did you buy it from biketrialstation or cleanbikes?

I either get perfect chain tension by fiddling with +1 tooth cogs or -1 tooth or run one of these http://labs.yesspro.com/products/etr-horizontal Another problem I had is gears are never made perfect so the chain tension has tight and loose spots so the spring tensioer balances that all out. If you slam the wheel and have perfect chain tension than its basically impossible to take your wheel off so I usually have it slightly loose and run a tensioner. You make me want to try snaiil cams again its 40 grams lighter hehe but wheel shift annoys me too much.

I find the wheel shifts around too much when I use them. The left bolt always moves right (away from the frame) leaving my wheel crooked. I don't know why slamming it prevents this. Theoretically it should still be able to move away from the frame but somehow it doesn't when its slammed. The other main advantage to slamming is mechanically its a lot easier. You don't have to set your chain tension or center the wheel, and bolts can't go in crooked. With cams sometimes one side will be closer to the frame than the other and when you ride they center out leaving your wheel crooked. I would use them if I had no choice, but if I can avoid using them its one less thing to worry about. The other thing is geometry. Changing your chainstay length 1cm totally will screw up your riding completely. I don't like the idea of changing my geo to adjust chain tension. With slammed its consistant geometry

there are quite a few calgary trials riders. Goto pinkbike.com and make this thread in the trials forum and ull get a lot of numbers.

I only rode it a couple weeks I would ride one for sure but I would rather buy a bionic for the same price

I know, but lots of frames do work when its slammed in all the way. Most people run cams, but in case he didn't it would be usful to know.

yes unless you run the wheel normally with snail cams. I mean if you slam the wheel all the way into the dropout it will not work. I always slam my hub all the way in so the wheel doesn't shift around when I ride.

this is easy! As long as you don't care if you destroy the freewheel. You only want to save the crank right? See those 2 holes on the freewheel? They are the lockring you can ususally get them loose with a hammer and pointy thing it just unscews. Undo that pull out the pawls and clamp the freewheel piece down in a vice. Next part you need a frame. Look for an old frame you don't need anymore saw off the top tube. Put the crankarm inside the toptube and use this to spin it inside the vice so you have mad leverage. good luck. Make sure you turn the right direction hehe remember the freewheel will be upside down in the vice if you do it this way.

I broke a viz rear hub too. The problem is the crappy 10 mm hollow axles which all fixed hubs have now. However if you want another 10mm hollowaxle I recommend the trialtech sport rear hub, its stronger than the viz by about 15%. If you want a good fixed hub look into the old deng ones or last year zhi hubs with the 10mm fun bolts. They are hard to find from bike shops though you may have to buy used. Otherwise you can buy one of the cheaper hubs that have the 10mm bolt on axle if you don't care about weight. I wouldn't replace the axle it will just break again. The only place I could find a 10mm fun bolt hub is here http://www.trial-bikes.com/zhibuje-trasero-116mm-p-31.html beware the zhi hubs sometimes have bad berings so if you like doing manuels a lot this can effect you a bit.

but your stuff from here if you want it cheap, its half the price of anything from the uk. You can get quality 26" frames for 150gpd or less including the cost of express mail shipping so its their in 5 days as well. biketrialstation.com you need a paypal account to order they are honest though and have good service I have bought a trillion things from them. Tarty bikes is awesome if you have the cash. I don't mind paying more from them because you are paying for the quality service. Their is always problems with orders most are my mistake, but they have resolved 100% of any issue. Most stores don't go out of their way to help you, tarty does and their website actually has useful information and huge selection.

i own a because simple 20" short rode it a few weeks. One thing you should know is the chainstay length is wrong. Its actually 355 not 350 which makes a huge difference to people like me because it throws off my chain tension. Also where the magura mounts are postioned you will need to run the wheel at 360mm chainstarys or the brakes wont work. Anyways the frame seems half decent but I would buy a bionic instead, they are the exact same price and almost exact same geo but from a reliable company. Anyways as for the frame it self it feels decent. Flexes a medium amount. The geo specs speak the rest it will feel the same as any other bike with the same geo. The weight is wrong too I am pretty sure I think its heavier than they claim. For neon products it seems more sturdy than most.

it doesn't flex but i agree drilling out carbon fibre doesnt save much weight it used to be a 4 bolt booster and i sawed it to make it 2 bolt than i realized carbon fibre is like metal you can saw and file it so I figured why not drill it a bit my frame doesn't really flex so the booster is more their just to protect the hose from my ass and foot sometimes My bike was 19.1 lbs last time I weighted it, its probably slightly under 19 now because I have done a lot of weight reductions since then ill probably weigh it tonight. I usually base weight by wrist pain. The good thing about that bike is it has no sl components at all. Everything is really really strong you can spin it off 6 foot ledges all day long and not have to worry about a single thing bending or breaking.

Im nuts about weight cause it helps my wrist so much. Mainly I dont have it cause of weight, but I guess its like why a lot of people go brakeless mainly it forces you to try new things. I suppose the other reason is I can't run front brakes my fork has no brake mounts anymore. I sawed the disc tabs off to save weight than I tried running hs-33s and realized their isn't enough clearance cause i run a 40mm front rim. So then I got mad and just sawed off the magura mounts too. That fork is the bomb I have had it forever. Its a viz urban fork they stopped making them a while ago, but you can still buy them from biketrialstation.com They are really good for spin tricks because they are the only mod fork with less than 40mm rake and the weight isn't heavy at all.

I finally found the perfect bike for my riding and have compelted upgrading every last bolt and washer on the bike to the maximum extent. I cant complain about a single thing. Everything is fully upgraded to the max! The bike is stupidly light now and doesnt hurt my wrist at all. Specs are profile drivetrain, viz everything else and bionic b2r frame of course.

its simple to decide. dob frame = 4 bolt every other frame in the world = 2 bolt on dob frames the brake booster acts as the seat tube weld.

when i was 13 all i could do was ride up a hill.