BlueSmokeyJoe

Most sprung tensioners are very similar to the cage section on a derailluer. They attach to the mech hanger and apply force downwards on the chain to create tension. There are other tensioners available like the Echo unit that is just a single aluminium bar with one jocky wheel that fits in the dropout/axle and uses that as the pivot to provide tension.

The key, I've found is having a light to medium sharp grind. Had my pads about 8-9 months riding once or twice a week on average and they are about a third worn? (and that includes a bit of sanding just to keep them perfectly square as they wore at a very slight angle once or twice) Hope this helps you!

Hmmm, take the wheel off and then remove the tyre/tube and try and straighten out the bend, then have a tweak with the spokes to try and true it as much as possible......

Definately worth it! Great bite and hold with the loudest noise haha. Best I've found so far is to run a light-medium grind thats as sharp as possible. Buy them and you won't look back!

Echo TR, they're the way forward. Good sized pedals with meaty single cages mean they dont bend easily and are very, very grippy! Excellent price as well considering they're the same weight as the Try-All superlights but half the price.

Yeah. The more 'grammatically correct' posts you make, the more people will see them and hopefully click on the 'submit validation vote' button .

Yeah, from Hudds lol. I'll have to let you know if there are any rides going on over summer. Always better to ride in a group

Swish. How're you finding the tensioners?

You should recieve an email stating you've been validated. Just seen you're in Wakey, which side? Anywhere near Hudds?

As above. Brilliant pads, cant fault them at all. Excellent bite, great hold and sound of annihilation when used!

+1, you'll be able to bag all sorts of bargains then in the for sale section! With regards to removing the sprocket with the chain method, a little tip is to have one link cocked up so that it gets 'stuck' on the jaws of the vice. This helps it rather than the chain getting pulled through the jaws. And when you screw the new sprocket and freewheel on, remember, grease is your friend!

Seriously, go for 18-12 and run that for a bit. Theres only so much people can advise on here, with it all being down to their own personal preference. I actually went to 18-13 as I found I could put the power down better for gapping etc. As they say, dont knock it until you've tried it Regarding the freewheel, the V!Z one will be a 'generic' 72 ep one. Having never run one I cannot vouch for the quality but for the extra £5 I'd advise you to go for the Tensile 96 click. My friend has one and its a pretty damn good freewheel. Keep it serviced and it wont skip, they have quite stiff springs and of course more engagements over other freewheels (bar Echo SL, Try-All 108 etc...). Tensile though .

Echo TR definately! They're a smidgen bigger than a normal dual caged pedal and are really grippy. The cages are also quite thick helping them to resist bending and the bearings are super smooth

So you were planning on running rear freewheel? Like PeanuckleJive has said, it will be far easier to run FFW (front freewheel). I imagine the chain is rubbing on the underside of the 'seatstay' on the frame? This will be due to the size of the freewheel you have put on the back. Best option to get it running would be to get a 12/13t rear sprocket and a freewheel for the front. I'd plump as much cash as you could for a proper 'trials' freewheel as this will be more cost effective in the long run rather than annihilating lesser freewheels. Find a second hand ENO/Tensile etc and you'll be laughing!

All depends on the spec of the parts and the condition. You can build a bike up for next to nothing. Work on getting validated and head to the 'for sale' section

True, I have never used the Dengura but I wasn't slating it. Purely pointing out that they are not recommended for use with water bleeds. I never said it would leak, just that there was an increased risk. Is it really worth rebleeding the brake if its working fine?

Yes, BUT, bleeding them with with water will not only void the warranty but also make it prone to leaking. Stick with the standard oil bleed, if it aint broke.......

Not worth the money. I seriously dont think they will have any effect on the performance of your brake, good or bad lol. Save your money for when something breaks and you need to replace it! If you want to increase your braking performance, put a light sharp grind on your rear braking surface and buy some cnc Heatsink Yellows. .

Do you mean 'ridges' that run horizontally around the braking surface opposed to 'ridges' that run vertically (like a ground rim)? This will be from the manufacturing of the rim. There is nothing to worry about. As stated above though, a grind will give you the best performance!

QFT. Been running an ENO for nearly 3 years now. I've serviced it once or twice in that time and never had a problem. The only reason I have got an Echo SL is for my 26" GU. Can't fault either freewheels. Both solid with reliable, quality engagement.

I'll be down there with 3-5 others, on the Sunday.

Echo SL all the way. 108 positive engagements that just feel really solid and properly 'click' into place, kinda hard to describe other than it feels really well made!

Which year GU? Pics?

Sums it up really. I've heard too much bad stuff about T-UK to even consider ordering off them, despite the prices.....