BlueSmokeyJoe

Haha, dont think I mentioned that in my previous post. Havn't experienced a skip on either of my SL's. .

I've personally been running an SL on my 26" for well over 6 months now and cant report any problems! Also running one on my 20" as of a month or so (bought it off a mate, used) and again, no problems to report. In use use, they feel very precise and you always feel confident that it has fully engaged when you go to do a move. Compared to a friends Tensile 96 click, the speed of engagement isnt a lot better, but the feel and sound are much more reasurring! Having had no experience with the Trialtech freewheel, I cannot give a users opinion but judging by the quality of their other components, I dont see why it wouldn't match up? Hmmm, maybe you got a slightly 'duff' one? (and before anyone says it, I'm not refering to the batch that were defective as I know they never left the factory! )

Crikey! How old is your SL? Did it happen when you landed on something?

Which one?

I run 661 Raji's. They are designed really thin to maximise bar feel. Last a fair while as well . LINKY

Mostly deng; GU 20" - Frame, headset, forks, rear hub, both rims, TR pedals, SL freewheel, sprocket, cranks, brake clamps, lever blade, bar and stem. GU 26" - Frame, headset, TR pedals, SL freewheel, cranks, bar, stem, lever blade, brake clamps and booster. And a spare 06 Python frame

I believe a while back, I read Alex Dark was designing a mounting system for a freewheel to be run on Middleburns.......

Probably best to disassemble the brake and lay the clamps on something perfectly flat. If they aren't bent, you could file them down a little and see if that helps. Or, sell them on and buy a new set? I run the SL clamps and can't rate them high enough. They're worth it for the metal washers alone! Much easier to set brakes up and they clamp them much more securly! Don't hold me to that though. Its merely an idea.

TR clamps are designed not to run the washers! Have you tried clamping an 'old style' caliper to see if the clamps can secure one of those properly? You never know, there might be a slight difference in size with the calipers!

Which screws are they? The ones on the master cap? Edit: If it is, if the protrude a bit, try cutting a slot into the top and use a flat head screwdriver the unscrew them

Yeah, the blocks are invaluable! The way I fit the barbed fittings is to clamp the hose in the blocks leaving 10mm poking out, via a vice then, screw the fitting into the caliper then nip it tight. Then locate the fitting on the hose and twist back and forth applying pressure til its fully into the hose. Hope this helps!

Or you could have a scoot round on ebay for an 07ish T-Pro. Its not uncommon to find ones that are in good condition, with dual maggies and sometimes a few other upgrades for example better brake pads, boosters etc. They range from anything around £100-250. The people selling them have often bought them brand new for their kids whom have lost interest. Meaning some havnt been used an awful lot! Doing this will be a cheaper way into trials and the money you will save could be used to fix/repair the bike or to buy upgrades.

Deng blades ***!

Definately worth it! The backings are soooo stiff, it puts loads more force on the pads giving a much stronger brake. Just make sure you set them up dead square for maximum benifits. Oh, and its cheaper in the long run as you can just buy refill material .

My 06 is still in fairly good condition, no cracks etc. Currently hanging on my garage wall as I switched to an 08 GU. Back on topic though, 07 Python .

Judging by this^ if you buy a Rockman, you will kill it.

Well, it doesn't have the cnc 'wings' lol In all seriousness though, if I was sourcing another Python it would probs be an 07.

Yup, Pythons are damn strong. If its anything like my 06 you'll be onto a winner. Can imagine the inbuilt booster will help the rear brake as well .

Or, replace your tired old washers with THESE!!!

Cant imagine a 30min commute on a trials bike would be much fun!

Possibly but remember you need an adequate amount of threads on your crank for the freewheel. Pictures will help in this case.

Also be worth checking the cones on your rear hub is its got loose ball bearings! Could be a contributing factor to the binding!

Very good freewheels indeed. Both of mine have never skipped, just flawless! Oh and the sound Just a little bit loud. Good to let people know you're heading their way!

If you do end up replacing them, I definately recommend the Trialtech/V!Z forks. My friend and I have a pair of each and they are both mightily stiff. Just keep a look out in the for sale section .

I could be wrong but pretty sure the newer Urban forks have a slightly thicker steerer tube. This potentially make the crown section stiffer, thus, your 'problem' could be due to the flex associated with the older models.