BlueSmokeyJoe

Like Revolver said I reckon the problem is contamination with the pads/rotor. Welcome to my world!

Warrenty claim?

Sand your pads dead square, re grind your rim to get rid of any contamination and set them up using THIS. Job done .

You'll also need an Echo splined sprocket as they use a different spline system to the ones that are run on cassette bodies .

Thats really nice. Liking the colours, opposite to my 08 GU. Just out of interest, whats the geo of this?

Edit: Beaten.

Woops, didn't know star nuts came pre installed. My bad. Out of interest, is it all forks from Tarty that come with star nuts fitted (bar ones with internal threads ala TrialTech)

Upload a pic of this said 'ring with a bolt through it'? Surely this can only be the top cap??? I don't know what else to suggest Edit: He's typing, OBM to the rescue?

Sounds suspiciously like you have forgotten to put some spacers underneath your stem, meaning you cannot tighten the top cap down as the top of the steerer tube is fouling it? How many mm gap is there (once its all together) is there from the top of the steere tube inside the stem clamp to the top of the stem clamp? This, SECOND PIC DOWN.

Basically just follow that ^^^ not a lot more to say really. Just so you know, the crown race is the bottom most part of your headset Click me - Diagram. You will also need to fit a star nut into the the steerer tube of the new forks. Once that is done, just follow the steps I originally wrote! Has this cleared it up?

What part of fitting your new forks are you stuck on? Is it just a spot of trouble you're having re-assembling?

First, measure the length of the steerer tube and cut accordingly to the length you need. then, 1) Remove brake from old forks 2)Remove front wheel 3) Unscrew your top cap bolt and remove bolt/top cap 4)Slide off stem/bar 5)Slide out forks and remove the crown race. 6)Fit the crown race to the steerer tube on your new forks 7)Slot steerer tube through headset and attach stem and necessary spacers 8)Attach brake and wheel 9)Fit top cap and hey presto, go ride! Hope that helps

Heatsink Yellows in CNC backings. On a medium sharp grind these pads have loads of bite and excellent hold and seem to last ages, cant honestly remember how old mine are but they have been on 3 different bikes now and have around 3-4mm of material left. All this with refills costing £10 make them excellent value when they eventually wear down!

These people are right. If you have the chance to buy the SL, go for it! They really are good freewheels, had mine around 6 months now and no skips. In comparison to my friends Tensile 96 click, it feels more precise in its engagement and just feels/sounds very hight quality. Bloody loud as well

I hear there are a few people out in Shepley.

Normal BB axles are that size though, aren't they? Its the larger casing (that houses the bearings) that looks deceptive.

True. Atm, it is only the deng 24" frames that accomodate those BB's. They're meant to be pretty strong though due the good size axle and massive bearings.

Confirmed. Currently running one myself. Hasn't skipped once, quick positive engagement and pretty damn loud, overall, .

True. Although riding one yourself will give you a general idea of how it rides. Remember that changing components like bar/stem can dramatically alter ther way a bike rides, good or bad.

I've got an 08 (20" + 26" ) . About the 20" though, it rides really nice and lively which ive found makes it feel lighter than it really is. With Lites on, the geo comes out at 1035wb 363/5cs and +55bb. I pretty sure the only problem regarding the snapping of the downtube just above the front bash mount is only when a bash plate is used as it concentrates the stress on that point. Running just a bashring seems to be the way forward as the 'locating point' where the rubber block would sit into kinda serves as a small block bash, much like my 06 CLS Python (if that makes sense?) Not much info but hope this reply helps you somewhat!

Deng lever blades and metal tpa's = WIN!

Nice work on the crossover routing

Hey, thanks for the fast reply! The chainstay measurement is off though lol. This is measured from the centre of the bottom bracket to the centre of the centre of the rear axle bolt. Should be around 360-375mm. What does it come out at on your Python? Cheers!