haydon_peter

As long as he has them in stock I believe he posts them out the same day. When I ordered mine he was waiting for a batch from his suppliers but he kept me up to date with emails and it was luckily only delayed by a few days. I just checked their facebook page and on the 22nd he stated he had stock and was also due another batch this week so hopefully you won't have any delay

It depends what the commute is like. On the road bike if I am out on my own on pitch black country roads I often use the 50% medium power setting, if I am out in a group of other people or on roads with street lights I just stick to the 10% low setting. I only use the 100% setting off road. Either way it will certainly make sure you get seen by other road users, I have had cars flashing me quite a few times

Join a local cycling club then! Since I got involved with a local club I have been out riding loads more than I ever used to. Recently some of the rides have been in shitty horrible conditions where previously I would have stayed at home. I now have the option of 2-3 organised road/mtb rides each week, I have met loads of new like minded people and have got much fitter!

I believe a single T6 Cree LED is only capable of producing up to ~1000 lumens so don't believe all the ebay stuff saying 99million lumens from a single LED. Realistically most people should be fine with 1000 lumens, I am getting on OK with just the mtbbatteries light on the handlebars although I sometimes wish I had an extra light on my helmet with a more focussed beam to light up where I am looking. A useful feature to check is with any of the lights is what power settings it has, a lot of the cheaper offerings only have 3 settings, High, Low and flashing. The light I linked to has High, Medium, Low and flashing, I am always finding myself using the 50% power mode on easy/slow sections of trail to lengthen the battery life! The Magicshine MJ872 is another light getting good reviews.

I recently got one of the XML lights from mtbbatteries.co.uk I wasn't really up for buying a deal extreme/magicshine/other ebay bargain. I didn't want to have to wait for it to be shipped from Hong Kong and I had also heard different stories regarding the build and battery quality. I found out about the MTBBatteries lights while searching the Singletrack World Forums for reviews of the deal extreme lights. I have used it on my road bike and also for XC and am very impressed! Yes it is twice the price of the cheap ebay offerings but I am happy I have supported a small UK based company and also have his backup if I have any problems. There is loads of info about all the different lights available on the STW forums

http://www.ukclimbing.com/ has a very busy forum. I cannot believe you have not found it yet, if you Google 'climbing' or 'climbing forum' it is actually the first link

If you're doing that sort of thing you would be much better off with a bivvy bag and a light weight tarp instead of a tent, pair that with a decent sleeping bag and air matt that will pack small then you won't have to carry a tent

Wait a second, you have bought a road bike?

That photo is missing a crudely drawn cock

I watched This Video on Pinkbike earlier and it got me thinking about when I learnt to ride a bike. My parents cannot remember exactly but I know I was a fairly late starter and think I was about 6 or 7 when I learnt to ride a bike. Some friends from up the road had learnt to cycle before me and they gave me a bike that they no longer needed, it was a dark red Raleigh with a fixed gear and solid rubber square profile tyres. I rode it with stabilisers around the garden but was not able to ride without the stabilisers until my parents took me to the old cattle market just down the road. In a large open area of flat concrete with nothing to crash into and a push from my Dad to get me started I was away cycling on my own! Learning to ride a bike has to be the most important thing I have ever done, I have made so many friends and had so many life changing experiences because of cycling and it all started many years ago on a bike that by today's standards was a very basic piece of kit! So, how old were you when you learnt to ride a bike, where did you learn to ride and what was your first bike?

Have you thought about taking up knitting or cross stitch?

I prefer running a Minion on the front and find it more predictable as a front tyre. I always used to run High Rollers front and rear on both my mountain bikes. This summer I changed to a Minion on the front and prefer it to the High Roller. The High roller has a point between the centre nobbles and the side nobbles where it cuts loose before suddenly regaining grip on the side nobbles, this is not so bad on the rear but can make things a bit interesting when using one on the front haha On the DH bike I run a Super Tacky 2.5 Minion F on the front and a 60a 2.35 High Roller on the rear (Both Dual Ply). On the XC bike I run a 60a 2.35 Minion F on the front and a 60a 2.10 Crossmark on the rear (Both Single Ply). I think this is the best tyre combination I have ever run.

One that fits. End thread.

Maybe there was only one envelope that contained x2 £20 notes for you but your sister was clever and split it up between 2 envelopes?

Donated I think Mark is a dark horse and is going to end the month with an amazing tash complete with 'Twiddly Bits'

Bike Trials Magazine (BTM) tried and failed, I think this was around 2004. I paid a subscription for a years worth of magazines, they were never released on time and in the end I didn't receive the amount of magazines I paid for because the guy just stopped doing it... I know I still have all the issues at home mixed in with loads of old MBUK magazines hidden in the bottom of the cupboard.

How can you even compare Cannabis to Chocolate? I have never seen Chocolate cause any harm but I have seen Cannabis totally f**k up peoples lives.

It's nice to see a trials bike using bolt through hubs! That will certainly make the bike more solid, although I guess some people might find it too solid as well? Saying that it is more of a street bike so I guess the riders buying it would be glad of a more solid feel. For those of you grumbling about the price, please never get into 'real' mountain biking! Trials is cheap in comparison to DH/Freeride/XC etc... If I wanted to buy a brand new top end mountain bike I could easily end up spending over £4000 for a complete and £2000+ for just a frame!

However a good comfortable saddle should be a high priority when building a bike you will be pedalling long distance

So you need washing up liquid and a decent pump that can get it up to 50psi, it sounds really easy to get the tyre on After doing this do you need to run a wider rim tape to cover up the cut edge even though you have smoothed them off?

Looks tidy Get some better pictures when you have finished! Those Giants are so nice! Seats are a personal thing really but I have run the SDG Bel Air that came on my bike for years with no major complaints. I know my LBS have a load of test saddles that they loan out to customers so it might be worth trying that if you are friendly with any shops near you. Get that front brake hose routed correctly along the inside of the fork leg

Ah OK, I'm not able to help any further then, I cannot figure out which adaptor you would need from CRC so I think you should go and ask in a decent bike shop. Kind of off topic but why does everything have to be post mount now? I just do not get it, it just means more threads in the frame/forks to worry about stripping! This summer I managed to strip one of the post mounts on my Rockshox Totem forks so I had to use a longer bolt to reach the good thread further inside the mount. At least with IS to post mount on the back you only have to worry about the threads on a cheap to replace adaptor! I guess I was just unlucky that the mounts on the Totems are already 203mm so you are bolting the calliper directly to the mount on the forks.

If the mounts on the frame look like this then it isn't post mount... Like Tom has said, you will need a IS to 180mm post mount adaptor to run a 180mm rotor. Any half decent bike shop will have what you need and it should only be £5-£10

The Shimano brakes should come with an adaptor that is the correct size to run a 160mm rotor on the rear. 160mm on the back brake should be more than enough however I would run a 180mm rotor on the front, you will probably need to buy an adaptor for the front brake separately but the adaptor you need depends on the type of mount that is on the forks (although they are highly likely to be post mount). I have run Shimano XT brakes 180mm front and 160mm rear on my Commencal for 3 years and they have never let me down! They even coped with a week of riding long descents in the Alps!

If you tell us what bike it is for and what forks you are running we might be able to tell you what you need, it would also help to know what size rotors you are planning to run...