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Go for it bro. I maybe can get a big brand to work on them... More on it later if that happens. Most probably in July! The Heatsink ones were really the best as far as I know but I have doubts they could go on my carbon forks or on the brake mounts on the Cleep 2 brake area. I actually don't know if any can fit as this frame has a weird brake area compared to other frames. I would also prefer having two pairs of the same adapters so I could go dual Vees on my bike.

That's great from you but I am in no hurry. And I can't say Ali hasn't peaked my interest with what he has shown.

Well, that's alright as I have plenty of time. Please let me know if you or Euan are ready to sell some to me and others maybe? Thanks a lot!

Well this is superb! I don't know anyone here that could machine anything like that. Could Euan make some more? I would pay for that!

Wow that's awesome work. I live in France and don't have tools to make this kind of part right unfortunately.

I own a Crewkerz Cleep 2. I will try and post some photos of the brake area but it's definitely impossible for the carbon forks. What I thought was drilling a V-brake boss and inserting a non ended M5 bolt in it so you could screw it in the existing M5 Maggie thread on the frame. I don't know if I am clear enough...

Hey, I finally managed to get a perfect bleed out of both my front and rear levers. They feel nice but HS33 is not my cup of tea. They are noisy, ever so slightly slippy if you hop backwards, and require too much maintenance to stay at their highest standard. I just want V-brake but it seems difficult as I can't find adapters anywhere.

Hello everyone. This is aimed at everyone but maybe @Ali Cor @AdamR28will be more able to help. I want to use Vees again as thy were arguably the best brakes I have used for trials. Everything is available on Tarty from Avid SD7 levers, Shimano arms, SP51 housing to cables. But I can't find pads or backings anywhere. But then again I can still make my own. The biggest issue is you can't find adapters anywhere! So has anyone got an idea? Can we make our own or would they be too fragile because of the lack of heat treatment? Any help is appreciated but I think I have to forget about Vees... Thanks a lot!

Ok so I tried bleeding my brakes thanks to this video: My brakes are brand new and just had their levers swapped to some Carthy Trialtech ones so there were still some magura oil with the cooling liquid used by Crewkerz. I used cooling liquid and did the pump trick to evacuate as much old liquid as I could. I did the normal bleed and the top trick and my levers are still not engaging instantly. Tried the top trick again and it's better but not quite there yet. I will leave it tonight and hope for the air bubbles to come up but I just keep getting some coming up the hose no matter how long I try... Will leaving it overnight help? Anyone has a clue on what could be wrong? Thanks Edit: just tried the top trick again and it's definitely better but not 100% there. I am kind of anal with brakes as I want it to be perfect and there is clearly a part of the lever strike that is compressing some air before liquid. I will try again tomorrow after leaving the brake rest overnight and I hope for the best. I still take any adviced that could be given anyway.

I am surprised Hope even did some custom sized ones to be honest.

Please make a thread about that bike. This forum needs so life to it. Nice to have some news about all this. I would be really interested about Vees. I have used them in the past following Ali's advices and they were awesome! I would definitely use them again if I could find good adapters!

God do you remember that? How come they even tried 190? I feel so old now...

The legend strikes again. Thanks so much for your experience La Bourde. How is that Crewkerz bike you bought from Jebegood (Tribalzine's founder) on Leboncoin then?

Hey thank you so much Adam. Didn't expect you would answer here. I have to find a decent bleed tutorial as I have always used the bath/bucket method. Do you think Shimano Mineral oil would work with them? Thanks again

So can anyone sum how you are bleeding these brakes with a syringe? Step by step if possible? Also I would like to use Shimano Mineral oil in them. Is it possible?

Well these are only my two cents but I think you should take into account that although the geometry have changed, the riding and techniques also have. That means that something confortable may not be the best for nowadays' type of riding. You will finally get used to it but it will change the way you ride your bike. You may end up liking it also! For example on my Crewkerz Jealousy mod, I rode my 145*20 stem with the 108 rise Crewkerz carbon bars. It took me a long time to get used to it as it was more difficult to make some bunny hops and such without pedalling but I ended up changing techniques on certain obstacles as it was more natural for moves to the back wheel for instance. Same for my current stock Crewkerz Cleep 2. I ride a WAW Ultimate 155*20 stem with 102 rise Crewkerz carbon bars. I am currently struggling to get my stock techniques back (although that's because I haven't ridden stock for 9 years and trials in general for a year). But I find it much more easy to get onto the rear wheel or to guide my front wheel somewhere once it's up in the air. My advice would be to choose between seeing your riding change for new techniques and new sensations on the bike or keep having fun and keep your current setup. You could also try something you are confident with and give it some time to finally feel at home. In my experience, swapping parts too often feels really nice at the start but starts to make all your usual riding habits kind of weird in the short run... Hope it helps.

Here is the final build picture. It was raining a lot so excuse the dirty bike. I may take more details of it once I have cleaned it. Had my first ride on it and I feel terrible. I need to improve my control on the bike. Haven't ridden trials for a year and 26" for 8 years. Guess it's kind of like starting all over again, which I like.

Things are taking shape. I still need to: -tighten everything to the right torque, -get a new chain, -get some 8 mm pads for the rear as these 10 mm ones don't clear, -set brakes, levers angle, stem angle and bar angle, -apply some grip tape, -clean the bike and ride it! I didn't cut the steerer as I quite like high front ends and as I didn't need a lot of spacers under the stem. I will try that position and see how it suits me.

I am really glad you like it. It means a lot. I will measure the BB height once it's build up. I didn't know about this difference. They are water transfers. I removed them with acetone. Sun must have affected them and the anodizing hence the remaining graphics. I really like it as it keeps showing it's a Crewkerz but I don't know if I should leave them like that. What do you think? Is it weird looking? It's not hard work to remove them if I decide to but I need advice. I removed the anodizing using caustic soda. The frame is indeed Medium. I had a Long when it was released but I found it too long so I am glad I found this one as it was one of my favourite bikes.

There it is once it's completely brushed by hand: I know we can still see the decals. That might be because of the sun or the decals not completely removed and the caustic soda not reacting with it. I can remove them but after talking about it with my wife I decided to keep it like that because it gives some kind of ghosty look to the logos and we kind of fancy it. Saved a few grams also: All parts thanks to Crewkerz should be here tomorrow.

Well some may have guessed it. I am rawing the frame! I removed that little bit that's on the "tail" of the frame as I want to put it back on afterwards. First, I removed the decals on the frame: And I thought of weighing it to compare before and after removing the anodizing. After the first bath: And after the second: Now I am brushing it by hand by 30 degrees Celsius. Gotta keep going!

Yeah I expected that reaction. That's why I added the kind of mention. Sorry if that was misleading. It's just that things go so fast now that I thought this frame was going to be old school for the comp riders. It isn't for me though. I hope you will enjoy the thread still. I have changed the title for something more clear. Sorry again if you had some better expectations for a real old school frame. That frame is from 2014 and seeing how things move so fast nowadays, I thought it wasn't recent enough to be interesting for most. I have changed the title so people don't get their hopes high. The BB is +60 on these. I have been riding 20" for the last 8 years. Then stopped riding for a year. So I guess this geo is perfect to get back to 26". I couldn't ride anything else than a Crewkerz also as this is a brand that always helped me and made me change the angry and bad attitude I had years ago when I thought I was someone else. The parts you see are from the original build. None of them will be used. The plan is a fairly "standard" build but with high end parts. That means HS33 front and rear, Crewkerz parts only except for the rims and levers. I also plan on making to the frame what I have always done to all my bikes... Started pulling it apart! Can you guess what I am about to do to the frame?

Long time since I last started a topic here. I stopped riding last year and sold all the trials bikes I had with all the parts. But I miss it so I had to build a bike and ride again. This one is a bit special and I have a few projects for it so here is the first picture after driving 3 hours to get it. The thing is basically brand new as it was a spare one for a demo rider here that some kid bought and practically never rode. I will keep this topic updated on the progress of the build. I don't know if that's of any interest to anyone but I feel sharing about it and just the overall process makes me some good so here I am.

Awesome V-brake setup. Get an Avid SD7 lever of you can! Maybe thinner pads would help a better profile just like Ross said. I just love that carbon V-brake booster and I would love to find one. Keep that bike like that, it's how it should be ridden!