FamilyBiker

hahaha,you know what i meant though!

120000 years ago human race were just apes,so i think everybody needs the feeling of hunting and killing. nowadays you order something through the web to get this feel haha

i´d say the leverage for front wheel moves would be bad. with short stems you´d have to get to a steeper angle the bike has underneath you to balance on the front wheel,no? i mean,the center of gravity defines the balance point.c.o.g. more to the rear > balance point more to the front to achieve the same?

thinking about all this leads me to the comclusion my frame feels long because a high bb with an average reach is going to be longer horizontally,seen from a sideview. i´ve got a bad flu atm,brains getting tired i assume. thanks guys.and sorry for ot

as it seems we´re supposed to post something random here one of my favorite jokes: two mates meet at a corner.one says:"did you ever think about the fact a man that has banged hundreds of women is cool and a women that slept with hundreds of men is considered a sl*t?" the other:"if you had a key that opens every lock,you´d call it a masterkey.if you had a lock every key fits in,you´d say it just a broken lock..." works best as a sketch imo hahaha

okay,kind of underestimated that then,my frame has 655 and feels pretty long even with a short high cockpit. with me being 182cm tall,which i´d consider as average.

yeah,but frame-wise most are between 630-650mm in reach. was just wondering why a streety 1000mm wb bike with +25 bb would have a geo value like this. most street frames have a reach around 640,except for the fourplay and the zoot thats why i´m asking the frame isitafox mentioned would either be loooong in terms of the front triangle/effective toptube length or have a say 150 headtube,out of my head

would be a 995-1005mm wheelbase bike,sounds nice to me.but why that reach on that wb? just out of interest,even compy bikes have lower values in most cases

wear some tights with shorts over them,jersey and helmet. noone else will go as a comp trials rider,it just looks too gay hahaha

excuse me?

found this on otn

the world needs a yt vid translater lol

yeah,for tall riders there could be an advantage,i agree. bike has to be kind of proportional to the rider

coming down from 26" on my dj/street bike to 24" on the same bike before changing to 24" street trials i dont really see something other than the 650b bikes beeing even more sluggish to ride on street. well,my 2 ct.

that is basically why i´ve been going for a usable seattube on my frame,with +50bb and other geo factors going in the "more trialsy" direction(wheelbase is pretty short with 1030 though) others would´ve been going for seatless,i thought it´d look weird,a bicycle has a seat imo came in handy a few times now,saved my jewels a few times,the surface of a saddle is spreading impacts way better that the surface of a steel tube,too that koxx looks promising,maybe they bring...oh wait

Keep cool. Didnt tell anyone to adapt to my opinion. Some are seeing it that way ,some in another. Think opinion is the Definition of that

sorry if this sounds stupid,but arent square wave setups for aluminium alloys?

i think it should be the rider,not the bike. except for my dj bike,on which i had several impacts from 3+ meters to flat,where a rigid fork probably wouldve been killing me,i always rode rigid bikes.(later on i did those jumps with a rigid fork,and since i knew how to ride properly i never flat dropped again lol) just my opinion,most trails average riders go down are easily mastered on a hardtail,if one´s got the technique dialled. people carry all those kilos of travel around while not using them for purpose,which is,and again its my opinion,to soften only the impacts which could result in injury... edit:hey thats mainly the reason i got into street/street trials,exept for weird geo frames supporting the riding its all about doing it with minimal equipment

as far as i know,yes.

i second this.

there was a 25" bike from a project suzuki was involved in around 2004/5,the UXC (Urban Cross Cycle) there was exactly one fitting kenda tyre and the bike vanished as quick as it appeared. i don´t get the whole 29"thing,but thats me,i dont even get fullies,thats all stuff that takes the work the rider normally has to do.

http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/images/custom/sprockets/chainstay.xls

mods with hopes look lush! erm,hard to tell,but could be a profile too...

it also helps on street,the side knobbles tend to "suck" into the ground while preloading,when i cut tyres they always had a snappier bounce after that. they dont hold as well as before on edges imo,but in a marginal amount

rim correction <3