Herbertlemon102
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Posts posted by Herbertlemon102
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If that bolt moves the pads closer, that would make the brake seem more appealing to me, maybe of hashtagg would sell the slave cylinders on their own- but they like their money so I think that's a no... And the idea of snagging a shoe heel on that protubance dunnae appeal to me... Lever. Looks like a racing line, which is fine. Besides the obvious horrific price, and the odd slave cylinders, which I'm going to reserve judgement on, it looks like a good brake. Any idea on power ratio over racing line/ 05 magura?
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Is that the bleed screw on the bottom of the strange slave cylinders? Interesting...
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oh it will be ground I'm just trying different things for reference now. White spirit I've discovered works damn well, did the wire brush with it too for ultimate- combo +32expGrind.
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salt adds to the flavour IMO, my friend.How does that work? People getting a bit more relaxed because they've got a bit of headgear on?
Still annoying. I pay a f**king ridiculous amount of money on tax, fuel money, car, maintenence of car, insurance, mot etc etc and for my driving experience to be ruined by cyclists taking up the road it's just bullshit.
Butthatsjustmyopinion take it with a pinch of salt
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Cheeky update- tries the dairy liquid technique, worked perfectly well for 10 min 11 sec (I timed it as it's become a habit...) but there was nothing wrong with the technique. I'll try the methylated sprit, thanks. Just trying everything before I grind it as it's interesting to see.
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I shall keep all these in mind, thanks guys. Might try the fairly liquid first
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not sure tar would help, and I don't like using it as it rains here oftentar?
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Thanks, I'll give it a try before I regrind it
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Another grind was my next idea, cheers I was also wondering if there's some other sort of trick too which doesn't require grinding?
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I've got a slight issue. My rim is contaminated, and I can't figure out how to de-contaminate it. I first cleaned it (brush, water etc) and it worked fine for 10 minutes, then the preformance dropped off, pads stopsaking noise and holding it biting. Removed them, and they had turned black on the face. I then used swarfeger (I think that's how it's spelt) and brush on the rim, cleaned the pads and that worked for a good 2 hours, then dropped off again. I then used a degreaser on the rim, and a lot of dirt came off but after another hour or so it dropped off again. I tried it again and it lasted about 5 minutes before dropping off. The rim has a light grind, and the pads are heatsink yellows. Any ideas? I'm sure there's something obvious I should know but I'm a dumb twit, what can I say?
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Easton products are fantastic, but the shape will be terrible for trials
What he said. Trials bars have a specific geometry for the bikes.
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Pad: heatsink yellows
Time used: about the same time it takes for me to realise someone's being sarcastic
Grind: yes, fresh medium
Rim: try-all 19" hole
Brake: magura 2002 hs33 with standard slaves and clamps, new pistons.
Review: great bite, great sound, hold is decent but not as good as I thought, though I've heard on a tryall hole rim Heatsinks tend to be temperamental. Worth the money for sure.
8.5/10
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I'm genuinely interested in this frame. It's an ozonys really so the quality can't be too bad, anyone have one? What's it like to ride? Anything that I should know?
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Pad: onza citrus greens
time used: 2 months
Grind: yes, medium
Rim: rear tryall 19"
Brake: 02 hs33 standard clamps, powerful brake for it's age
In dry weather they have great initial bite and sound, but the holds not quite there for 1 finger braking. In wet you may aswell have blocks of wood for pads, they slip loads unless you do two finger braking which I hate. Recently upgraded to Heatsinks. Obvious difference between the two.
6.5/10
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Ooh Bugatti fan? Damn. Hard to please. Which one you want drawn for you laddie?
Hehe.. yup
Nice Bugatti
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Even though there's a pivot on the end if the piston side linkage, whatever. Here's a Ferrari I'm drawing because I'm bored. Take it.
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Hey, I know what that word means! Where my medal? And due to the fact it's a parallel linkage system, you can achieve lateral force, as it's the same system as the dual wishbones in a cars suspension acting on the suspension... Except the suspension is a piston. If that's what you meant.
1 fulcrum has an advantage over multiple.
Pulling the lever down to activate lateral link.. 1 fulcrum. Lateral link acting on piston.. 2nd fulcrum. You cannot achieve linear force in a brake lever application
Sorry *linear
And there's 5 "fulcrums"/ pivots, which doesn't help my case but yeah.
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Hang on a minute, I should be supporting my design! Uh... Mechanical advantage of parallel linkage, the lever moves in a lateral direction instead of an arc like a normal lever, because if the extra pivots, meaning it's a f**ker to maintai- I mean, awesome.
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Oh, there's no mechanical advantage, in esscense they produce the same amount of leverage, bit since there's more pivots In my design, unless it's made properly it'll be utter balls. The only advantage is positioning, really.
Less mechanical advantage than a normal piston lever.
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I agree that there isn't a problem that this solves, however for some reason I'd like to run it because I can... Wobbly linkages are a definite possibility,, depending on how it is made it might not have any of those problems. Of course, that won't happen , so I'm just putting on airs and can't disagree with the fact it probably would be wobblyy.
I disagree on the durability, more parts means smaller weaker parts and more pivots means more chance for a wobbly blade.
Probably won't be any lighter due to the extra material needed for the linkages etc. Nice concept, but as Ali said, creating a solution for a problem that doesn't really exist.
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due to the linkage, the force doesn't go directly onto the piston but rather the linkage itself, so if I made one I'd have to make sure it was a solid piece of material to give it the extra resistance, but yes, figuratively, it should have better resistanceIt'll have some more impact resistance.
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I see what you mean, the only advantages are it's weight and positioning really, maybe the beer I've drunk is starting to get to me.they made parallel levers years ago but not for hydraulic brakes. It would work but is kinda trying to fix something that's not broken.
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Okay, ignoring the position of the lever blade (not really a blade but you get the idea) this is an idea I though of, to make hydraulic levers more compact, and also act as a grip stop because of the levers actual size and positioning. In this drawing I did the lever blade would be too close to the bars, and I dislike the shape, but I can change that later.
It works in a similar way to a cars parallel linkage suspension. The green rods are both linkages. The linkage on the left is half the size of the linkage on the right. The linkage on the right is what actually presses the piston, which is at the very top of the drawing . This means you get the same amount of leverage as a normal lever but in a smaller space, so the handlebar clamp can be situated against the grip as a grip stop, and only one finger can be used on the blade (as it should be) it also means the piston is facing backwards.
I hope what I've said makes sense, feedback is welcome.
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My one-off custom alpha Alu trek 3700, ruined by broken forks and dodgy cranks. They only made one of these frames and i treat it so badly I should be shot
Saint/ Ice tech rotors
in Trials Chat
Posted
I've just bought an ice tech 203mm, with the 5 pronged aluminium spider. I bought it because I've heard good things about heat conduction away from the rotor through the spider which is made if Alu (great for conduction) and frankly, I think the disc is great to look at. But is the heat conduction really noticable? My rotor at the minute gets quite got and the brake sometimes fades slightly, do the saint rotors offer better braking power and heat transfer? Or is it's good looks all it has to offer?